Oil Pan removal - FJ60

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Joined
Mar 6, 2017
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Location
middletown, nj
Can't seem to break the pan free. I've searched the threads and have seen plenty on how to put the gasket on ("Poser's Thread"). There is something about lifting the frame and putting 2x4 under the pan but I didn't fully understand that post. I've tried using a thick scraper/putty knife but I'm leery of damaging the pan. I've even tried trying to jar it lose using a rubber mallet.

Any suggestions?
 
Can't seem to break the pan free. I've searched the threads and have seen plenty on how to put the gasket on ("Poser's Thread"). There is something about lifting the frame and putting 2x4 under the pan but I didn't fully understand that post. I've tried using a thick scraper/putty knife but I'm leery of damaging the pan. I've even tried trying to jar it lose using a rubber mallet.

Any suggestions?


I think most use a 2x4 against the pan and a bottle jack against the frame rail and apply pressure until it comes loose.
 
I think most use a 2x4 against the pan and a bottle jack against the frame rail and apply pressure until it comes loose.

Any chance you could be more specific? 2x4 where against the pan? what puts the downward pressure against the pan? my simple mind can't process this
 
Bottle jack between frame and pan w/ a 2x4 so you don't cave in the pan.

Or there's an SST for it:

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I found a cheap version of the SST tool at a local autoparts store. You won't damage the pan with a putty knife if you're careful and cut along the block side, if possible.

Engine Pumps Transmissions Oil Pan Seal Separator Oil Gasket Remover Cutter Tool | eBay

Or:

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Also... verify that you indeed remove EVERY bolt. Those ones in the corner by the clutch inspection plate are hard to see and easy to miss (ask me how I know).

Then, just like they said above... sideways pressure against the pan and the frame (using a block of wood and the bottle jack) will pop it right off.

Also, Be sure to carefully flatten the flange where the bolts are before you reinstall.
 
They are stubborn but the bottle jack will work (eventually) I would crank mine from the passenger side frame rail to the lower side near the drain plug and go work on something else for a while. Come back and do a few more cranks and a few more taps of a rubber mallet.

The best thing to do is buy you a new pan as insurance. They are available new from Toyota and are not terribly expensive. Will save you time scraping of cork gasket from pan and straightening any irregularities. + 30 year old LCs LOVE shiny new parts!
 
Well the Job is complete. Ran the engine for a few minutes in the garage and so far so good - no leaks.

For the digital record:
Used the bottle jack (positioned horizontally between passenger side frame and oil pan with a short 2x4. Bottle jacks don't like to work in a horizontal position (I used 2 different ones to make sure) but was able to get just enough pressure to loosen the pan.
Bought 2 boxes of Fel-Pro ES 72865 Oil Pan Snap-Up 8mm to hold the gasket on the pan prior to installation.
Cleaned gasket surface on pan and bottom of engine block.
Desk mounted gasket to pan with Snap Ups.
Applied black gasket silicone to the 4 corners of cork gasket and to BOTH sides of the end bearing cork gaskets.
Bottle jack'ed oil pan in position under engine with 2x4.
Threaded in the Snap Ups to hold pan and gasket in place.
Used a long, angled pick to manoeuvre gasket as needed
Inserted and hand tightened the 20 (?) bolts.
Torqued bolts in center first then worked my way outward, switching sides.

Thanks to all who aided me with their wisdom.
 
The bottle jack method never worked for me when I did my pan in my old gasser. But what worked like a charm was a rod from above to the lip of the pan and a hammer strike! There is a notch in the block somewhere on the drivers side, where u can place said rod, and it will come off easy! That's what worked for me. When I tried it the bottle jack option, I thought the engine would come off the mounts!!
 
I used my bottle jack to push my harmonic balancer back on w/ ease. Put its footing against the front crosspiece of frame and a stretch of hardwood across the hb. No sweat in the horizontal position.
 
@tony stone Great work! don't forget to go back and re-snug the oil pan bolts in a few days. That gasket will compress a little bit and a few might become under-torqued.

Interesting note on the horizontal bottle jack trouble. I never had any issues that I can remember. But maybe my pan wasn't on as tight as yours?? Aren't most shop presses operating with essentially an inverted bottle jack?
 
@tony stone Great work! don't forget to go back and re-snug the oil pan bolts in a few days. That gasket will compress a little bit and a few might become under-torqued.

Interesting note on the horizontal bottle jack trouble. I never had any issues that I can remember. But maybe my pan wasn't on as tight as yours?? Aren't most shop presses operating with essentially an inverted bottle jack?

I'm not sure. I first used a 10 yr old Craftsmen jack i had and i couldnt get it to operate horizontally so I ran out to Autozone and bought another one. Had mostly the same issue. It struggled to extend in horizontal position. No big deal. Got the job done.
 
The factory Toyota bottle jack doesn't rely on hydraulics to work. It is the best bottle jack ever invented IMO. The old yellow ones are by far the best and will screw out to extend far enough to raise lifted trucks on bigger tires too. Mr. T had on his thinking cap when he came up with the idea. I'm not sure if the factory jack will compress small enough for this application but it might. If so, it's the one to use.
 
^^^Yes, the yellow Fj40 jack is a wonder of engineering for such a simple device. I used my brown 60 jack without issue.^^^
 
just to add a little more info for anyone else reading this thread in the future make sure your pan doesn't have any leaks before you reinstall. mine did so i got to do the job again. on the new pan i used the OEM gasket. it apparently does have a front and a back. i found out the hard way with a big leak and got to do the job one more time. i got good at the process but it is a pain. OEM one piece gasket is definitely the way to go. toyota also has an oil pan gasket maker they recommended. best gasket maker i've ever used. i would recommend it for sure
 
Just working on removing my pan myself. I can't get my hydraulic bottle jack to work in the horizontal position either. Guess I will keep at it. The factory jack is long gone, any other suggestions on a different bottle jack that is available?
 
The next time you visit the pick-and-pull, get a Camry scissor jack and handle. Extremely useful for suspension (leaf spring replacement), oil pan, bodywork, etc. No hydraulics to suck air. When retracted, they are flat, and are lightweight, and tuck nicely into areas where you need jack pressure. You can also turn the jack screw with a screwdriver, if there isn't room to get the handle in there.
 
Just about to change the pan gasket on my 83 fj60. Wondering if I should also replace the original pan, which has a fair amount of rust, with one of the newer ones or have the original pan powder-coated at my local shop for less money.
 

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