Oil Pan removal - FJ60

[Spike Strip]

Just about to change the pan gasket on my 83 fj60. Wondering if I should also replace the original pan, which has a fair amount of rust, with one of the newer ones or have the original pan powder-coated at my local shop for less money.

The oil pans have a built-in skid plate that traps crap causing rust and leaks. If you're removing the pan, you can evaluate from the inside out and make a determination then. I've seen some that get welded/patched on the bottom from the inside, and work fine. Although, you being in CAN, the rust may be too much.

Nice to be able get a new pan while they're still available, though.

As far as power coating, I usually just use a good rust-inhibiting paint.

 

[OSS]

The problem is trying to get all the old gasket off the old pan- it’s incredibly difficult.
After 30 minutes of futile effort and cussing, I gave up and ordered a new pan.

If you do order a new pan, it uses a different drain plug, drain plug gasket and pan gasket than the old pan.

I wouldn’t coat the inside of a pan with anything including powder. No telling if it would dissolve into the oil.

Just about to change the pan gasket on my 83 fj60. Wondering if I should also replace the original pan, which has a fair amount of rust, with one of the newer ones or have the original pan powder-coated at my local shop for less money.

 

[Lead Head]

I took a torch to the underside of my oil pan all around the gasket rail. Once the cork started smoking, it basically peeled right off. I ended up doing the same to the cork still on the block. Just burnt the ever living daylights out of it. It was like iron before I did that.

I repainted the pan afterwards, of course.

 

[Dekeman]

Thanks gents. I'm taking a few other pieces into the powder-coating shop (tranny skid plate, fan shroud) so thought maybe I should include the pan as well. Mostly surface rust. They would coat the outside only. @OSS will the one-piece gasket I just bought, 12151-61010, work with the newer pan with the smaller plug, or is that gasket specific to my older pan? If the latter, guess I'm sticking with my prehistoric one. I also read somewhere the newer pans need some small mod to fit past the oil pump?

 

[OSS]

12151-61010 is the gasket for the older pan.

—-

New updated oil pan:
12101-61013

Gasket for new pan above:
12151-61011

Drain plug for new pan above
90341-12012

Drain Plug gasket for new plug above.
90430-12028

The new designed pan fits perfectly. Clears oil pump fine (I used it).
If the new pan is used with the old style gasket, the hoops in the gasket are a little longer but the gasket can still be made to fit without leaking by just crushing it down a little

 

[Dekeman]

Awesome, thanks!

 

[CurtB]

Will the new style gasket work on the old pan? There are a couple of little tabs on the side of the new gasket that I don't think were on the old...

 

[OSS]

The new gasket hoops are shorter than what’s required of the old pan. The gasket would have to be stretched a bit to reach. Hmmm.
I’d return that gasket and get the correct one.

Will the new style gasket work on the old pan? There are a couple of little tabs on the side of the new gasket that I don't think were on the old...

 

[CurtB]

The new gasket hoops are shorter than what’s required of the old pan. The gasket would have to be stretched a bit to reach. Hmmm.
I’d return that gasket and get the correct one.

True to form, I'm too impatient to return so tried it. It seems like it fits ok... I'll report once I get the rest of the engine reassembled and can test.

On a side note, the fsm torque spec (53-104 in/lb) seems much heavier than I would of applied blindly, and I'm the king of over-torque.

 

[CurtB]

On a side note, the fsm torque spec (53-104 in/lb) seems much heavier than I would of applied blindly, and I'm the king of over-torque

LOL, I'm a dumbass. Inch pounds not foot pounds. Glad I trusted my wrist

 

[OSS]

Yeah I wouldn’t use an actual torque wrench on the pan bolts. The spec is a guide (just finger wrench tight)

 

[taoofbean]

Resurrecting this great thread from the dead: is there anything I should look to clean or maintain or refresh once I pull the pan? I don’t want to pass on the opportunity while it is off.

I am chasing leaks and starting at the oil pan then working my way back over the coming year, clutch, transmission and transfer case on down the line. All of them are crusted in fluid and so much crust I cannot tell which isn’t leaking at this point.

I bought a replacement pan and hardware at recommendation of my mechanic. He mentioned the relatively cheap cost is well worth the headache of eliminating a chance you reuse the old one just to find out you have our will soon have inevitable pinhole leaks behind that bash guard that traps crap.