I have been told that these motors do not like 91 as they were designed for higher octane leaded fuel. Try some higher octane fuel or octane booster- this may help with the sputtering under acceleration.
Builds Newly Restored 40 With Questions from the Past (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Zeus0623
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- Thread starter
- #62
I run 91 in all my old cars. She is running SUPER rich as it is. Actually, I am starting to notice she is smoking a bit when I turn her on, this usually goes away after I run her for a while.
@lazylfarm, I pulled the front plug this weekend, it looks pretty normal. Maybe shows signs of running a little rich? These plugs have less than 200 miles on them.
I am starting to think I need to rebuild the carb, then work backwards.
- Thread starter
- #63
Ok team, while I get my list of parts together to fix miscellaneous leaks and drive issues, I decided to fix my radio in the glove box!
Also, can anyone help me to determine where these wires are supposed to be connected to? I was thinking they are for the wipers?
Also, can anyone help me to determine where these wires are supposed to be connected to? I was thinking they are for the wipers?
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The engine is rich because the Weber carb is jetted rich to insure it doesn't go lean and melt a piston. Combine the overly rich sea level calibration with being 5000'ASL, and it should be running about 30% too rich.
- Thread starter
- #65
The engine is rich because the Weber carb is jetted rich to insure it doesn't go lean and melt a piston. Combine the overly rich sea level calibration with being 5000'ASL, and it should be running about 30% too rich.
Yes, this makes sense. I spoke with @Trollhole yesterday and am working on going back to a stock carb setup with a manual fuel pump. Hopefully this will fix my issues. I can barely drive down the street anymore!
- Thread starter
- #66
Hello Mud family! Question for you all and some updates... I recently purchased a new Saudi spec carb from @Trollhole and got it put on last night. I am curious as to the electrical hookup that supposedly controls fuel? Where can I hook this up? Any suggestions?
Thank you!
Thank you!
- Thread starter
- #68
I have a connection that my electric fuel pump used to run off of, would this work?
Yes
- Thread starter
- #72
Good question. I replaced it a few months ago and went directly to a Toyota dealer, they supplied the YZZD3 which worked just fine. Also, this is the 1F in my 40.
- Thread starter
- #73
Ok, took the 40 to my Cruiser specialist to get the new carb tuned up. He got me thinking of motor swaps... Anyone have real costs on the R2.8 and H55 combo? Total labor cost? I am a number cruncher so need to get this on paper. Thank you!
Overland Cruisers in Belgrade Montana (OVERLAND CRUISERS) has an R2.8 swapped 40 sitting in front of their shop right now. I'm pretty sure they put one in a 60 recently too. They can probably give you pretty solid ballpark numbers.
FJBen
SILVER Star
I believe the R2.8 cost alone is $8,999. not sure if there are any discounts.
The H55F new is $2,450 -$2,750* depending on model needed for R2.8
A new split case t-case is $1,650*
Total: $13,399
You can find the tranny and t-case used.
on top of this you will need at a minimum:
bell housing
correct slave cylinder
clutch arm
Driveshafts resized
motor mounts
t-case crossmember
new clutch
Exhaust work
radiator unless yours is in really good shape
engine fan electric or depending on setup
shroud setup
all sorts of misc stuff
fluids
Labor $$$
My guess is you will be well into the $25K+ range to get this swap done for you.
Resurrection Land Cruisers aka Proffit's start at $28K for R2.8 and tranny swap.
If you do it all on your own, You will be $15K ~ $16K+
$15-$25K buys a lot of gas, repairs,
Then make sure you have a reputable shop that won't drag you on, mess it up or way overcharge you.
I just rebuilt my 13BT in my BJ74 and did everything except for machine work, it still cost me a chunk.
What aren't you happy with regarding the F/2F?
You can fuel inject them, @wngrog has had good luck with his AFI fuel injection. He also had a 2F performance build by @FJ60Cam that seems to rip and you would be well less than half the cost/headache of an R2.8 swap. It all bolts in.
from wngrog racing against a Hotrod 2F build:
Plus, this hot rod 2F thing is real. I had just taken my FJ40 (Project Patina) with a new, stock 2F and perfectly tuned carb up for a drag race to see for myself the difference in power.....
I'll let the video tell the tale
Not trying to discourage you because the R2.8 is a cool option...swaps are $$$$.
I've owned 2F's, 350's, EFI350's, EFI 6's, 2UZ, H diesel and now 13BT turbo diesel. They all have their +/-'s An FJ55 on 35's, stock gearing and Colorado passes has a lot of negatives.
The FJ40 on 37's and a built Fuel Injected 350 was fun, but the SM420 was like driving a farm truck. I do like the turbo diesel, probably my favorite so far.- Thread starter
- #76
I believe the R2.8 cost alone is $8,999. not sure if there are any discounts.
The H55F new is $2,450 -$2,750* depending on model needed for R2.8
A new split case t-case is $1,650*
Total: $13,399
You can find the tranny and t-case used.
on top of this you will need at a minimum:
bell housing
correct slave cylinder
clutch arm
Driveshafts resized
motor mounts
t-case crossmember
new clutch
Exhaust work
radiator unless yours is in really good shape
engine fan electric or depending on setup
shroud setup
all sorts of misc stuff
fluids
Labor $$$
My guess is you will be well into the $25K+ range to get this swap done for you.
Resurrection Land Cruisers aka Proffit's start at $28K for R2.8 and tranny swap.
If you do it all on your own, You will be $15K ~ $16K+
$15-$25K buys a lot of gas, repairs,
Then make sure you have a reputable shop that won't drag you on, mess it up or way overcharge you.
I just rebuilt my 13BT in my BJ74 and did everything except for machine work, it still cost me a chunk.
What aren't you happy with regarding the F/2F?
You can fuel inject them, @wngrog has had good luck with his AFI fuel injection. He also had a 2F performance build by @FJ60Cam that seems to rip and you would be well less than half the cost/headache of an R2.8 swap. It all bolts in.
from wngrog racing against a Hotrod 2F build:
Plus, this hot rod 2F thing is real. I had just taken my FJ40 (Project Patina) with a new, stock 2F and perfectly tuned carb up for a drag race to see for myself the difference in power.....
I'll let the video tell the tale
Not trying to discourage you because the R2.8 is a cool option...swaps are $$$$.
I've owned 2F's, 350's, EFI350's, EFI 6's, 2UZ, H diesel and now 13BT turbo diesel. They all have their +/-'s An FJ55 on 35's, stock gearing and Colorado passes has a lot of negatives.
This is a lot to digest, THANK YOU!!!
I will add some thoughts later but my previous idea was to do a 2F with a 4 speed or H55. Maybe rebuild a 2F with a 4 speed, then go from there? I am on a F and 3 speed combo right now, only way to get it to the hills is driving 55 the whole way. Doable but not the most usable.
***Cost on 2F with a 4 speed? Rebuild costs...?
I know it’ll upset some, but I love my 350/SM465 combo. With that out of the way, (at 60+ mph with out a hardtop) I don’t love driving it long distances. I’m to use to the modern trucks and the lack of wind noise. Sure I can climb up a pass at a good clip, but so will my wife’s minivan and it quiet and warm. All I’m saying is be realistic whether it’s a hot rod 2F, SBC or diesel- they are still old trucks.
FJBen
SILVER Star
The hi-perf 2f build I was referencing goes for about $6k on his site. That’s for a fully rebuilt newer 2f long block.
I’ve seen 4 speeds go for as cheap as $100 up to a few hundred. There are usually 4 speeds for sale all the time.
The Holley sniper efi kit is $1095 for basically everything you need inc pump.
If you went wholehog on a hi-po 2f, EFI, 5spd and rebuilt tcase you’d be looking $10k+ and have a pretty nice setup that’s more or less original.
I believe just rebuilding a 2f with decent parts and machine shop work will prob run you $3k.
Driving a F/2F FJ40 is an experience in Colorado passes. 4speed will help, but they only have so much in the tank, especially with lift/tires.
How much of this can/will you want to do yourself?
I’ve seen 4 speeds go for as cheap as $100 up to a few hundred. There are usually 4 speeds for sale all the time.
The Holley sniper efi kit is $1095 for basically everything you need inc pump.
If you went wholehog on a hi-po 2f, EFI, 5spd and rebuilt tcase you’d be looking $10k+ and have a pretty nice setup that’s more or less original.
I believe just rebuilding a 2f with decent parts and machine shop work will prob run you $3k.
Driving a F/2F FJ40 is an experience in Colorado passes. 4speed will help, but they only have so much in the tank, especially with lift/tires.
How much of this can/will you want to do yourself?
- Thread starter
- #79
Sorry for the long delay. I have been digesting all of this while trying to get my current setup functional. I am leaning on the rebuilt 2F route with an H55 for now. Eventually go big with a diesel or LS, way down the road. Any major modifications with pairing up a 4 speed with my current F to get me by? Also, suggestions for sourcing a used 2F?
Separate question but very pertinent, any good resources for a valve adjustment on my F? I got the new carb from @Trollhole installed but I am getting backfires under load. Its not driveable outside of the neighborhood.
Thank you!
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
You're on the right track...
A nice holley fuel injected rebuilt 2F with an h55 and split case would be a really nice way to go.
Good luck!
A nice holley fuel injected rebuilt 2F with an h55 and split case would be a really nice way to go.
Good luck!
