New Engine for a 1975 FJ40 Named "Sandy"

[MatthewMcD]

Don't mean to string y'all along. I pulled the air cleaner cover and after pumping the gas a dozen times there is no gas smell. I need to test the fuel pump and then, maybe, pull the top off the carb in case the float is stuck.

May not happen 'till after this weekend.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Heading back into the garage after a hiatus to finish up some honey-dos.

After a two month wait some small items for my rear disk brakes finally showed up from Japan.

Hoping to find an easy solution to the "no fuel" to my carb.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Solved it! Yay!

I will have to admit that my troubleshooting revolved around the notion that there is nothing wrong with my carb from @65swb45. So with that as a starting point I disconnected the fuel line and ran a hose into a pail to catch any fuel. I hit the starter and ... nothing.

So, I disconnected the fuel line to the fuel pump and used a big syringe to suck fuel through the fuel filter. At first there was a bit of resistance and then it gave me a big gulp of fuel. In hindsight I could have buttoned it all up and tried to start it, but I really wanted to make sure I didn't have a fuel pump issue. I removed and disassembled the fuel pump. Everything was perfectly fine. So, I sealed it all up and double checked all the connections.

I cranked the starter for a few seconds, and it tried to catch. I checked the sight glass and saw that there was fuel. Hit the gas pedal a few times and it started right up.

So, I am writing this off to fuel filter. I bought a couple sight glass filters that I'll install tomorrow and keep one as a spare. I like knowing that I can see fuel moving through the system.

Next up is replacing the old rubber brake lines.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Well done..

Considered a dozen times over adding on old school Yota glass fuel filter.

Oh, and you better replace the “Mrs” Turkey baster before she misses it. Just say’en.

Solved it! Yay!

I will have to admit that my troubleshooting revolved around the notion that there is nothing wrong with my carb from @65swb45. So with that as a starting point I disconnected the fuel line and ran a hose into a pail to catch any fuel. I hit the starter and ... nothing.

So, I disconnected the fuel line to the fuel pump and used a big syringe to suck fuel through the fuel filter. At first there was a bit of resistance and then it gave me a big gulp of fuel. In hindsight I could have buttoned it all up and tried to start it, but I really wanted to make sure I didn't have a fuel pump issue. I removed and disassembled the fuel pump. Everything was perfectly fine. So, I sealed it all up and double checked all the connections.

I cranked the starter for a few seconds, and it tried to catch. I checked the sight glass and saw that there was fuel. Hit the gas pedal a few times and it started right up.

So, I am writing this off to fuel filter. I bought a couple sight glass filters that I'll install tomorrow and keep one as a spare. I like knowing that I can see fuel moving through the system.

Next up is replacing the old rubber brake lines.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Oh, and you better replace the “Mrs” Turkey baster before she misses it.

I can neither confirm or deny...

 

[MatthewMcD]

Considered a dozen times over adding on old school Yota glass fuel filter.

I thought about this too. I even tried to use the old part numbers on an order with Toyota. What arrived was one metal fuel filter and the correct filter element for the old glass filter.

I installed an OEM metal filter (5/16" barbs on both sides). That's the one I "unplugged" and will replace. It hasn't seen much use, but I'll feel better being able to see the fuel flow.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Swapped out the fuel filter this morning.
Then pulled, cleaned, and replaced the heater valve. The valve works fine. I think the issue was the placement of the cable in the clamp not letting the valve throw fully closed. I installed it closed and then married up the cable to it.

Now to get out driving!

 

[MatthewMcD]

Swapped out 2 of 4 brake lines. Unfortunately, the pair of Doorman front lines from the axel to the disk brake calipers are not correct. The bracket on my axel and caliper are round and these lines have a strange oblong shape to them. I am going to review the brake line spreadsheet and make sure I ordered the right ones.

My truck turned 50 this month. These two lines are date stamped 5/75.

I also confirmed that I have an exhaust manifold leak in the middle under the carb. I have another gasket so I'll dive into that tomorrow.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

I also confirmed that I have an exhaust manifold leak in the middle under the carb. I have another gasket so I'll dive into that tomorrow.

“No seriously honey, this will just take ten minutes”…

 

[Pighead]

I also confirmed that I have an exhaust manifold leak in the middle under the carb. I have another gasket so I'll dive into that tomorrow.

how many times have you re-torqued those manifolds since start up? Try it again

 

[MatthewMcD]

how many times have you re-torqued those manifolds since start up? Try it again

Probably 4 times. The gasket is shot. I swapped it for one I picked up a while ago from @cruiseroutfit. I can see where the old leaks were because they are EVERYWHERE. I also notice on the old gasket it doesn't have the reenforced "windows" that are on the new gasket.

I'll order another one before I finally replace this manifold with the proper 2F version.

Fired it up and it sounds loads better. Will let it cool down and set overnight before Torquing it again and taking it for a spin.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Have you made sure the manifold surface are flat. Big piece of glass with sand paper affixed to it, will work to plane it flat. Much easier to do intake and exhaust separately. Loosely connect them, then install the pair. I would soak that gasket in warm water for 1/2 hour to soften it up so the high spots can sine in more easily. Torque from the middle out starting at 1/3 value. Then 2/3, next at 100%. Now tighten the manifold connection. Fire it up and let it get hot 15-20 minutes. Let it cool, then do the torque again at 100%
I use high heat anti seize compound on the studs. and stainless steel nuts. After a several heat cycles torque them again at 100%

 

[MatthewMcD]

Have you made sure the manifold surface are flat. Big piece of glass with sand paper affixed to it, will work to plane it flat. Much easier to do intake and exhaust separately. Loosely connect them, then install the pair. I would soak that gasket in warm water for 1/2 hour to soften it up so the high spots can sine in more easily. Torque from the middle out starting at 1/3 value. Then 2/3, next at 100%. Now tighten the manifold connection. Fire it up and let it get hot 15-20 minutes. Let it cool, then do the torque again at 100%
I use high heat anti seize compound on the studs. and stainless steel nuts. After a several heat cycles torque them again at 100%

I had the manifold surfaced when I did the flywheel. I think the first gasket was just a poor version. Looking at the size of the ports they are much too big.

 

[77mustard40]

Do yourself a favor and mic all the shared bolt/stud locations where the ears of intake and exhaust share a fastener; they need to be off by less than .010" or else... I used thick flat machine washers and filed one half the washer at each location to accommodate for the difference measured, marked the outside of the washer where filed with a sharpie for orientation purposes when assembling. This results in equal torque at each ear with all the fasteners. Stock gasket, dry, no issues in over 10 years.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Played hooky this afternoon just to get some miles in. 104 miles round trip through the hill country west of Austin. The "17 minutes idle" was gassing up. Going to do it again tomorrow and this weekend to get an idea of the mileage then tighen everything, replace the distilled water with anti freeze and change the oil and filter. I cannot believe how good this engine feels at speed. The carb is awesome and secondary opens up and gives it a kick at speed.

 

[jestlurnin]

@MatthewMcD glad the shake down went well. What app is that you used?

 

[MatthewMcD]

@MatthewMcD glad the shake down went well. What app is that you used?

Speedometer Pro.

‎Speedometer 55 Pro. GPS kit.

‎A premium speedometer, GPS tracker, and trip cost monitor for iPhone and cellular iPad. Stay informed and in control while you drive. When you exceed a preset speed limit, the large digits turn from green to red with a sound alert. Track trip costs in real-time and split expenses with...

apps.apple.com

Speedometer - Speed Limit Alert and Trip Cost Monitor

@RevISK recommended it during my “I can’t drive 55” trials.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Second road trip. This one was a bit more fun. I timed it so I'd hit the Milam and Greene Distillery as it opened.

The truck ran like a champ. I discovered another source of heat through the firewall that I'll plug this weekend.

Every now and then I heard a squeal that MAY be the alternator (I'll try and track it down this weekend). The alternator and the steering box are the only two things I haven't rebuilt...yet. I looked at a couple OLD alternator threads and it looks like I can either rebuild or replace with a reman unit. Mine is externally regulated and the regulator on this trip is putting out 12.8-13.5 volts. Amps are always positive but does fluctuate with the blinkers and dip with the headlights on. (Edit: I am not even sure the alternator is Toyota/Denso or whatever... )

Thoughts?

 

[RevISK]

These are great for cheap insurance/monitoring:

 

[MatthewMcD]

These are great for cheap insurance/monitoring:
View attachment 3918050

That is similar to what I have. Agreed, they are great for monitoring.