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This last statement is incorrect. Look at the tang on any used distributor and you will KNOW that there is less than a 1/4” engagement.
New Engine for a 1975 FJ40 Named "Sandy"
- Thread starter MatthewMcD
- Start date
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- 2f engine engine swap
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- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,469
- Messages
- 36,719
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
If the bands on the clamp are not parallel anymore, it’s time to part with 8 bucks and buy a new one. There are several trusted vendors on this forum offer them.
One or two participate regularly in tech.
One or two participate regularly in tech.
MatthewMcD
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- Thread starter
- #124
Yes
MatthewMcD
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- Thread starter
- #125
Which is what year (or range of years)? Again, trying to round out my knowledge so I am looking at the right specs in the manuals.
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MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #126
They look to be parallel, though for $8 it's good insurance. Should probably replace the o-ring while I am at it. If one of those vendors has those in stock as well. (Wow, that's a crappy photo.)
Edit, better photo.
For reference, here is a never-used distributor clamp that I have.
1.187 - inch diameter. Sounds kinda like an old USA-fractional dimension: 1-&-3/16-inch. It is totally parallel, where it has the gap and the bolt clamps it closed.
.318-inch thick.
1.187 - inch diameter. Sounds kinda like an old USA-fractional dimension: 1-&-3/16-inch. It is totally parallel, where it has the gap and the bolt clamps it closed.
.318-inch thick.
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #128
Got busy today with the PB Blaster and treated the engine mounts and transmission mounts. Only one of them is what I would call "tight". That one was identified by having the only cotter pin through the castle nut.
So, this evening's question is, what is the "right bolt" for the transmission mounts? Toyota lists 90102-13010 and 90102-13009 both appear to be NLA. Can I substitute a grade 8.8 bolt of similar length? Should I use a castle nut and drill the bolts to suit?
For the motor mounts, I have the OEM mounts, but they did not come with bolts or nuts. I may be able to reuse the bolts I have, but do not want to reuse the nuts due to rust and they are not the same. It appears from the parts diagram that the bottom of the mount is held by a washer, lock washer and nut. The top is a bolt. Can I use a new grade 8 bolt for this?
Having read the threads about fastener applicability, I know many of you know a lot about this topic, and I admit, I do not. Based on what I see on my truck, they attached it with whatever nuts they had laying around. I'd like to reassemble it correctly and safely.
One of my transmission mount bolts:
So, this evening's question is, what is the "right bolt" for the transmission mounts? Toyota lists 90102-13010 and 90102-13009 both appear to be NLA. Can I substitute a grade 8.8 bolt of similar length? Should I use a castle nut and drill the bolts to suit?
For the motor mounts, I have the OEM mounts, but they did not come with bolts or nuts. I may be able to reuse the bolts I have, but do not want to reuse the nuts due to rust and they are not the same. It appears from the parts diagram that the bottom of the mount is held by a washer, lock washer and nut. The top is a bolt. Can I use a new grade 8 bolt for this?
Having read the threads about fastener applicability, I know many of you know a lot about this topic, and I admit, I do not. Based on what I see on my truck, they attached it with whatever nuts they had laying around. I'd like to reassemble it correctly and safely.
One of my transmission mount bolts:
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #129
I lined up a machine shop to resurface the flywheel. Looking at the FSM it says to "Coat the flywheel bolt threads with liquid sealer. Tighten the bolts to 60 ft-lb". What liquid sealer is appropriate?
Loctite 565 or 567?
Permatex 80632 Thread Sealant with PTFE?
Thanks.
Loctite 565 or 567?
Permatex 80632 Thread Sealant with PTFE?
Thanks.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
Right or wrong I used Loctite Blue
RevISK
SILVER Star
565 on the recommendation of a well renowned cruiser dude. As a thread sealant.
I just used it to reassemble my t case and tranny in the 62
Loctite red on every other thread I inserted.
I just used it to reassemble my t case and tranny in the 62
Loctite red on every other thread I inserted.
GA Architect
SILVER Star
Unless someone here states differently, I plan to use the Loctite 567 on mine next week......
It probably serves to keep the clutch disc dry in the event of an oil leak? At 60 ft-lbs tightening torque, the sealer itself isn't keeping the drivetrain together, it is just filling the space between threads on mating parts.
An anerobic-curing thread sealer can also address water and subsequent corrosion on fastener threads.
An anerobic-curing thread sealer can also address water and subsequent corrosion on fastener threads.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Honestly probably doesn't really matter. I did use the red anaerobic sealant on all surfaces for T case reassembly.
MatthewMcD
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- Thread starter
- #135
I don't understand Toyota shipping. I ordered a bunch of nuts and bolts, they want $20 shipping, so I'll pick it up at the Toyota dealer. I ordered 2 gallons of Genuine Toyota Long Life Coolant and the fuel line nuts and olives. That order came with free shipping, and it weighs 10 times as much.
Anyway, I bent up my new fuel line. After reading a few different threads and seeing that folks had the hardest time "making the final bend into the carb". I decided to start at the carb. I picked up a can-style straightener off Amazon.
I used some wire to perform each bend before I bent the 5/16 steel fuel line.
At each bend you mark the spot you want the bend to start and measure from there. There is a bit of eye-balling to get it right. Keeping everything bent in the same plane is a bit of a trick too.
Making the final bend into the fuel pump I decided not to try for the "kick bend" and just dive directly into the pump. If I need to make another I'll try and tighten it up and use the kick bend. I did have to whittle off the tube to get the lenght just right to drop into the fuel pump right at the height of the carb.
I finally cleaned up the tubing cut ends and flushed it with carb cleaner so no debris gets into the carb. Here it is with the nuts on hand tight. It does not touch anything in the course of the run. Now I need to redo the vacuum line. It really looks like crap in comparison!
Anyway, I bent up my new fuel line. After reading a few different threads and seeing that folks had the hardest time "making the final bend into the carb". I decided to start at the carb. I picked up a can-style straightener off Amazon.
I used some wire to perform each bend before I bent the 5/16 steel fuel line.
At each bend you mark the spot you want the bend to start and measure from there. There is a bit of eye-balling to get it right. Keeping everything bent in the same plane is a bit of a trick too.
Making the final bend into the fuel pump I decided not to try for the "kick bend" and just dive directly into the pump. If I need to make another I'll try and tighten it up and use the kick bend. I did have to whittle off the tube to get the lenght just right to drop into the fuel pump right at the height of the carb.
I finally cleaned up the tubing cut ends and flushed it with carb cleaner so no debris gets into the carb. Here it is with the nuts on hand tight. It does not touch anything in the course of the run. Now I need to redo the vacuum line. It really looks like crap in comparison!
RevISK
SILVER Star
Bending that stuff is cathartic.
The best dealer in town is in Cedar Park. Sucks, but it’s worth making your orders through them then making the trek.
Then you can swing by @aljollano and drop a sixer down payment for something you will surely need in the future.
The best dealer in town is in Cedar Park. Sucks, but it’s worth making your orders through them then making the trek.
Then you can swing by @aljollano and drop a sixer down payment for something you will surely need in the future.
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #137
Agreed, I use Cedar Park based on your recommendation. Always good to be the one owed, rather than owing. That's why I bake bread!
RevISK
SILVER Star
Your bread, as always, was a huge hit. We have a friend in from out of town and he’s all impressed that I’ve got fresh baked goodness. My son loves it too.Agreed, I use Cedar Park based on your recommendation. Always good to be the one owed, rather than owing. That's why I bake bread!
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #139
Love to hear that. I'll be making more of the regular sourdough this weekend.
The line looks kinda close to the alternator. I took a rubber insulated cable clamp, removed the metal strip, and threaded a zip tie thru the two grooves. I can get a photo is necessary. It allowed me to cover most of the alternator B (battery) lug, without having to attempt a replacement on the factory alternator ring terminal on the harness. I've accidentally shorted the positive here, with a tool, and I'm surprised that my ammeter still works. I always carry the plastic black / negative battery lug insulator that comes with new batteries, as I use this cheapish part when I disconnect the negative when working with conductive tools under the hood.
I've found that working with terminals, such as on the wire to the carb idle cut solenoid, are easier to crimp without the thick insulator. I remove it the heat of a lighter, and employ heat shrink wrap to cover the connector. It is less bulky. It is more precise of a crimp. For butt-connectors, I never use the rolled sheet type. I always use an un-insulated solid type butt-connector (you can even solder them if the connection is subject to corrosion). I hope this helps, as the trailer-type wiring parts at the auto store make it a challenge to build circuits as dependable as the harness that came from the factory.
I've found that working with terminals, such as on the wire to the carb idle cut solenoid, are easier to crimp without the thick insulator. I remove it the heat of a lighter, and employ heat shrink wrap to cover the connector. It is less bulky. It is more precise of a crimp. For butt-connectors, I never use the rolled sheet type. I always use an un-insulated solid type butt-connector (you can even solder them if the connection is subject to corrosion). I hope this helps, as the trailer-type wiring parts at the auto store make it a challenge to build circuits as dependable as the harness that came from the factory.
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