New Engine for a 1975 FJ40 Named "Sandy"

[MatthewMcD]

The line looks kinda close to the alternator. I took a rubber insulated cable clamp, removed the metal strip, and threaded a zip tie thru the two grooves. I can get a photo is necessary. It allowed me to cover most of the alternator B (battery) lug, without having to attempt a replacement on the factory alternator ring terminal on the harness. I've accidentally shorted the positive here, with a tool, and I'm surprised that my ammeter still works. I always carry the plastic black / negative battery lug insulator that comes with new batteries, as I use this cheapish part when I disconnect the negative when working with conductive tools under the hood.

I've found that working with terminals, such as on the wire to the carb idle cut solenoid, are easier to crimp without the thick insulator. I remove it the heat of a lighter, and employ heat shrink wrap to cover the connector. It is less bulky. It is more precise of a crimp. For butt-connectors, I never use the rolled sheet type. I always use an un-insulated solid type butt-connector (you can even solder them if the connection is subject to corrosion). I hope this helps, as the trailer-type wiring parts at the auto store make it a challenge to build circuits as dependable as the harness that came from the factory.

Thanks, I have a cap somewhere in my stores. I think the angle of the photo makes it look closer than it is, but I'll double check before tightening everything down.

 

[RevISK]

Thanks, I have a cap somewhere in my stores. I think the angle of the photo makes it look closer than it is, but I'll double check before tightening everything down.

Another thing from the Armchair Quarterback Society© is to maybe think about insulating your line that is right next to the VC.

 

[Grayscale]

Did you get bolts for the rear engine mounts? I used Grade 5 1/2-20 and drilled them, on the truck, for cotter pins. It is really close to the M13 Class 5 bolts that came from the factory, as far as fastener specs.

Also, for a 2F, there are manifold studs to convert it to the F-manifolds. The 2F uses M12, the F uses M10. I don't know if it is necessary, getting a millimeter on radius clearance, or more space for the washer/nut in the milled ear on the manifold? FJ40, FJ55 and FJ60 Land Cruiser Intake and Exhaust Manifold Gaskets, Heat Riser Gaskets and Hardware - Specter Off-Road - https://www.sor.com/cat/044#044-02B-KIT

 

[MatthewMcD]

Did you get bolts for the rear engine mounts? I used Grade 5 1/2-20 and drilled them, on the truck, for cotter pins. It is really close to the M13 Class 5 bolts that came from the factory, as far as fastener specs.

Also, for a 2F, there are manifold studs to convert it to the F-manifolds. The 2F uses M12, the F uses M10. I don't know if it is necessary, getting a millimeter on radius clearance, or more space for the washer/nut in the milled ear on the manifold? FJ40, FJ55 and FJ60 Land Cruiser Intake and Exhaust Manifold Gaskets, Heat Riser Gaskets and Hardware - Specter Off-Road - https://www.sor.com/cat/044#044-02B-KIT

I did get the bolts, they are grade 8. The new engine has the M12 studs for the manifold and my manifold is all set for the 12mm studs.

 

[Land Shark]

I don't understand Toyota shipping. I ordered a bunch of nuts and bolts, they want $20 shipping, so I'll pick it up at the Toyota dealer. I ordered 2 gallons of Genuine Toyota Long Life Coolant and the fuel line nuts and olives. That order came with free shipping, and it weighs 10 times as much.

Anyway, I bent up my new fuel line. After reading a few different threads and seeing that folks had the hardest time "making the final bend into the carb". I decided to start at the carb. I picked up a can-style straightener off Amazon.

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I used some wire to perform each bend before I bent the 5/16 steel fuel line.
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At each bend you mark the spot you want the bend to start and measure from there. There is a bit of eye-balling to get it right. Keeping everything bent in the same plane is a bit of a trick too.
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Making the final bend into the fuel pump I decided not to try for the "kick bend" and just dive directly into the pump. If I need to make another I'll try and tighten it up and use the kick bend. I did have to whittle off the tube to get the lenght just right to drop into the fuel pump right at the height of the carb.
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I finally cleaned up the tubing cut ends and flushed it with carb cleaner so no debris gets into the carb. Here it is with the nuts on hand tight. It does not touch anything in the course of the run. Now I need to redo the vacuum line. It really looks like crap in comparison!
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That is sexy !

 

[MatthewMcD]

That is sexy !

I thought so. It's the little touches like this that make me smile.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Parts pickup this morning. Planning on another road test today.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Picked up the carb to air cleaner gasket among other things. I know this isn't the "right" clamp for the air cleaner, but this connection has never been so solid and airtight. The truck runs great. Going to take a few laps tomorrow and then top up the gas tank before our trip to the garage for the engine swap.

 

[MatthewMcD]

What are folks thoughts on setting the odometer back to 0 for a new engine?

 

[OlYellr]

Do it

 

[RevISK]

You’re never selling this rig so what does it matter?

 

[OlYellr]

And you know how many miles are on the engine

 

[charliemeyer007]

Its like mattress tags; you will go to a FEMA death camp under penalty of LAW.



j/k

 

[MatthewMcD]

Drove it for about an hour today, until I wasn't comfortable on the gas gauge. Turns out "E" plus a smidge is 13.5 gallons.

Filled it with "better" gas and now we're ready for the long drive to swap the engine. That'll happen on the 24th.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Got a box of transmission and transfer case gaskets, fan clutch and fan from @cruiseroutfit today. (Man! Those guys ship fast!)

I organized the parts that I am bringing out with me so I can get an idea of how much room I'll have for tools. I managed to get all this consolidated with plenty of room for tools.

I have been thinking about the highway portion of the trip out and even with a top speed of 55-60 I wanted to let anyone behind me know I was on a mission. (If they can't read there is always my !)

So I used some left over tee shirt material and some inkjet transfers to make a sign for them. (I didn't want to block the rear window.)

 

[OlYellr]

Just an opinion - aren’t they all - your tank is easy to get to. Pull off and inspect for rust etc. clean out.

I didn’t when I did my rebuild though it was suggested. I’m doing tank/fuel stuff now and noticed yesterday my fuel filer has crap in it as I’m replace hoses. Your are this far and the tank is way easier than the 1979+ design to get in and out.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Just an opinion - aren’t they all - your tank is easy to get to. Pull off and inspect for rust etc. clean out.

I didn’t when I did my rebuild though it was suggested. I’m doing tank/fuel stuff now and noticed yesterday my fuel filer has crap in it as I’m replace hoses. Your are this far and the tank is way easier than the 1979+ design to get in and out.

Thanks, when I got her she had pin holes in the gas tank so the first thing I did was replace the gas tank and all the rubber fuel lines.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Cleaned up the whole throttle linkage chain, pained and lubed all the ball connections and installed my new-to-me accelerator pedal from @Vulcan. I love it when everything just fits (particularly after removing a mish-mash of parts that do not fit).

Question: Did this style accelerator pedal have a pedal pad? The one I have does not fit this size pedal.

 

[wolfbak]

Cleaned up the whole throttle linkage chain, pained and lubed all the ball connections and installed my new-to-me accelerator pedal from @Vulcan. I love it when everything just fits (particularly after removing a mish-mash of parts that do not fit).

Question: Did this style accelerator pedal have a pedal pad? The one I have does not fit this size pedal.
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Yes, it did. You can find them online. For example: LAND CRUISER PEDAL PAD SET CLUTCH BREAK GAS FJ40 FJ45 FJ43 FJ55 BJ40 1969 -1980 | FJ Depot - https://fjdepot.com/product/land-cruiser-pedal-pad-set-clutch-break-gas-fj40-fj45-fj43-fj55-bj40-1969-1980/

A VW gas pedal pad also works. They are very difficult to get on. You might try heating yours up with a heat gun.

 

[77mustard40]

Cleaned up the whole throttle linkage chain, pained and lubed all the ball connections and installed my new-to-me accelerator pedal from @Vulcan. I love it when everything just fits (particularly after removing a mish-mash of parts that do not fit).

Question: Did this style accelerator pedal have a pedal pad? The one I have does not fit this size pedal.
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Matt I've never bothered with a pedal pad in my decades of ownership, I don't know if I could handle that change at this point in time. Looking really good man!