New Engine for a 1975 FJ40 Named "Sandy" (2 Viewers)

[MatthewMcD]

Yes, it did. You can find them online. For example: LAND CRUISER PEDAL PAD SET CLUTCH BREAK GAS FJ40 FJ45 FJ43 FJ55 BJ40 1969 -1980 | FJ Depot - https://fjdepot.com/product/land-cruiser-pedal-pad-set-clutch-break-gas-fj40-fj45-fj43-fj55-bj40-1969-1980/

A VW gas pedal pad also works. They are very difficult to get on. You might try heating yours up with a heat gun.
View attachment 3816268View attachment 3816268

Thanks, it was a super tight fit, I'll add a new one to my list for later. Thanks!

 

[MatthewMcD]

Matt I've never bothered with a pedal pad in my decades of ownership, I don't know if I could handle that change at this point in time. Looking really good man!

I have to say I do like the way I can heel-toe with the metal pedal. It slips easily on the bottom of my shoe.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Well, plans have accelerated. Work wants me to take a trip so I'll be heading out to Pipe Creek on Saturday with the truck. I just finished packing all the tools, fluids, solvents, and lubricants.

While making sure that I had all the right tools I noticed that one of my manifold nuts was only hand tight. I need to replace them all. Aside from the diameter and thread pitch, is there a specific type of nut (or nut and washer combination that is correct for securing the intake/exhaust manifold? Looking at the schematic it is a flat washer and nut.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I try and do stainless steel and hi heat anti seize compound on all exhaust work.

 

[Grayscale]

This is essential for cleaning up any thread damage. A wire brush or Scotchbrite for corrosion.

The 2F manifold nuts and washers fit into a counterbored (machined) area into the manifold ears. I remember that I found a washer with a smaller OD for the purpose, and I bought six others. But, I was working with the 2F intake and an Aussie header.

2F manifold studs can be repaired, sorta. I think this is an Irwin Hanson die from Ace.

 

[MatthewMcD]

This is essential for cleaning up any thread damage. A wire brush or Scotchbrite for corrosion.

The 2F manifold nuts and washers fit into a counterbored (machined) area into the manifold ears. I remember that I found a washer with a smaller OD for the purpose, and I bought six others. But, I was working with the 2F intake and an Aussie header.

2F manifold studs can be repaired, sorta. I think this is an Irwin Hanson die from Ace.
View attachment 3816595

The studs on the new engine are in good shape. IIRC they replaced them for me...but I have to check. I am asking if there is a specific kind of nut. I am seeing copper plated flange nuts in the generic auto parts search.

 

[Pighead]

I am asking if there is a specific kind of nut.

Yes. I only use OEM nuts there

 

[Grayscale]

The OEM nuts are smaller than the generic hardware store nuts. The soft(ish) steel flat washer keeps the galling from ruining the aluminum intake manifold. Manifold Stud Kit (I really should buy a paper SOR catalog) You can see the hardware has a low-profile as opposed to the stuff from Hillman at the local ACE hardware store. The manifold kit for '75 contains two, "end bolts." You won't need this because the '68 exhaust manifold has no provision for them. I used these two bolt locations for 'Aussie headers.' Pighead somehow got a full-size stud in the location where one of my engines came with a hook (for pick up); they are M8, or M10, fasteners on my '75 2F head.

I mention the use of a thread die, because, even if you have new studs, getting the exhaust installed can mush a few threads before you things are completely situated (particularly when the intake is bolted to the exhaust, unlike our experiences with exhaust headers) is tricky and the exhaust manifold is hard on the head stud threads.

Whatever nuts are already on your truck can probably continue to use them. A die damages rolled threads, just slightly. So dies are kinda cheap fixes and should be avoided on wheel lugs, etc. But, a tap will make just about any rusty nut work just fine, as internal threads that are cut are not subject to the same problems that male threads experience. New hardware is always better. But, if you get clean, lubricated (high-temp antiseize) threads and hardware contact surfaces, the torque isn't lost to excessive thread friction.

Here is my 2F intake and 'Aussie Headers.' You'll see that the washer just barely fits in the 2F tab / ear that was milled in the casting. Hopefully, these head stud washers fit in the similar location on the '68 intake.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Yes. I only use OEM nuts there

View attachment 3816625

Thanks! I see the nuts are available, what washers do you use? 90201-12118 are NLA from Toyota. Is 8 the right number for the head (admitting being too lazy to go to the garage to count, but to be fair, I have a dog sleeping on me at the moment.)

@Grayscale I just noticed the bolt hole at the front "top" of the head. My current engine has nothing there. Looking I see 91619-41225 NLA but it does not appear special.

 

[Grayscale]

You can see that your washers are resting on the casting, not on the milled counterbore on the face of the F-manifolds. There is a gap between the washer and where it rests on the manifold.

 

[MatthewMcD]

You can see that your washers are resting on the casting, not on the milled counterbore on the face of the F-manifolds. There is a gap between the washer and where it rests on the manifold.

View attachment 3816826

Yes, I'd like to correct that if I can.
I don't plan on reusing these nuts. They do not stay tight.

 

[Grayscale]

Consider the SOR 'Step-Down-Kit for manifold hardware? Someone else did your homework / lathe work.

Maybe the nut came loose because it is pulled-up against a non-machined surface, with minimal surface area contact?

 

[Grayscale]

Here is a fun pic of me doing the swap on mulch in the front yard. September, 2019

 

[MatthewMcD]

Here is a fun pic of me doing the swap on mulch in the front yard. September, 2019

View attachment 3816844

Excellent, did you pull the transmission tunnel cover?

 

[MatthewMcD]

Consider the SOR 'Step-Down-Kit for manifold hardware? Someone else did your homework / lathe work.

Maybe the nut came loose because it is pulled-up against a non-machined surface, with minimal surface area contact?

The existing studs/nuts on the old engine are M12. So I don't think I'll need to change the studs. SOR does have the nuts and washers, so that is a huge help. Since we're talking about the specs on the manifold, is there some tell-tail that would indicate this manifold is designed for 10mm and not 12? I think previously someone said the firing order indicated that this was a 1F manifold.

 

[77mustard40]

Matt, here was my intake/exhaust solution which was a little more involved because of my headers. I went with two extra studs which is not the OEM setup but made the assembly easier. For flat washers i used I sourced those locally, IIRC Austin Bolt off Metric making sure the ID and OD were correct. The final successful assembly starts around post #179. That was a LONG time ago and its been trouble free.

Going Aisin-details, details, details

PCV Question Pulled the carb to retorque the manifold bolts just to try a 30 min fix vs the overhaul again and noticed the bottom of the manifold was wet. Wiped it out and its motor oil, must be coming in through the PCV line. Didn't think too much about it and remounted the carb. Pic #1...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Pighead]

I think previously someone said the firing order indicated that this was a 1F manifold.

Yes, I think that the cast-in firing order indicates that it is a '69ish wide-runner intake manifold. It's what I run too. I forget if there was much grinding to get it to fit the M12 manifold studs, There's always some grinding to expect when fitting manifolds and headers.
I couldn't find new washers either, I didn't worry about it and just re-used my old ones. Figured that washers didn't wear out. They are special washers though, thicker than usual.
These new manifold studs are longer than my old ones, not sure if I like them better or not.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Matt, here was my intake/exhaust solution which was a little more involved because of my headers. I went with two extra studs which is not the OEM setup but made the assembly easier. For flat washers i used I sourced those locally, IIRC Austin Bolt off Metric making sure the ID and OD were correct. The final successful assembly starts around post #179. That was a LONG time ago and its been trouble free.

Going Aisin-details, details, details

PCV Question Pulled the carb to retorque the manifold bolts just to try a 30 min fix vs the overhaul again and noticed the bottom of the manifold was wet. Wiped it out and its motor oil, must be coming in through the PCV line. Didn't think too much about it and remounted the carb. Pic #1...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks! I'll have a look. Since I live south, I have been using American Bolt on Burleson. I them.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Yes, I think that the cast-in firing order indicates that it is a '69ish wide-runner intake manifold. It's what I run too. I forget if there was much grinding to get it to fit the M12 manifold studs, There's always some grinding to expect when fitting manifolds and headers.
I couldn't find new washers either, I didn't worry about it and just re-used my old ones. Figured that washers didn't wear out. They are special washers though, thicker than usual.
These new manifold studs are longer than my old ones, not sure if I like them better or not.

View attachment 3816937

View attachment 3816943

I have to say, I love that the firing order in cast in.

 

[77mustard40]

Thanks! I'll have a look. Since I live south, I have been using American Bolt on Burleson. I them.

Right by my old office! Agree with @Pighead on the washers, the ones I source were thick flat machine washers. I filed one-half of each one by the mic'd difference in the thickness of the intake and exhaust manifolds at every location to ensure equal torque to each manifold.