New Engine for a 1975 FJ40 Named "Sandy"

90% of the time, do you use your big sockets on:

  • Big nuts

    Votes: 4 80.0%

  • Installing and removing seals and bearings

    Votes: 1 20.0%
  • Total voters
    5
  • Poll closed .

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Skreddy said:
Sorry if I missed it. Make sure you have new or good used engine mounts. If the fan is tight and you hit a bump with old mounts the engine can move a little and self-clearance the fan on the shroud.

Looking good! Glad to see you got a carb from Mark and dialing things in on current engine.
Click to expand...
I do have all new OEM engine mounts.
 
Next pre-build question. I plan to use my current distributor on the new engine. I understand that I have to set the #1 cylinder to 7* BTDC. I have reviewed the process for making sure the distributor is installed correctly.

When I start this engine for the first time and try to run it for 20 minutes to break it in, there will be a lot going on.
  • Checking the timing and getting a descent idle
  • Checking for coolant leaks
  • Checking for oil leaks
  • Checking for fuel leaks
I'll have a helper to focus on the gauges and control the throttle while I scamper around and make sure everything is working.

My question is, when reinstalling the distributor, is there a "starting position" or am I adjusting it on the fly after I get the engine started? For example, after getting the ball aligned with the needle (not running) do I rotate the distributor to crack open the points as a starting point to get me in the ball park?
 
MatthewMcD said:
Next pre-build question. I plan to use my current distributor on the new engine. I understand that I have to set the #1 cylinder to 7* BTDC. I have reviewed the process for making sure the distributor is installed correctly.

When I start this engine for the first time and try to run it for 20 minutes to break it in, there will be a lot going on.
  • Checking the timing and getting a descent idle
  • Checking for coolant leaks
  • Checking for oil leaks
  • Checking for fuel leaks
I'll have a helper to focus on the gauges and control the throttle while I scamper around and make sure everything is working.

My question is, when reinstalling the distributor, is there a "starting position" or am I adjusting it on the fly after I get the engine started? For example, after getting the ball aligned with the needle (not running) do I rotate the distributor to crack open the points as a starting point to get me in the ball park?
Click to expand...
A) when is this s all going down?
2- it’s my understanding that you’d point the #1 on the dizzy to the roughly #4 plug on the block.
 
RevISK said:
A) when is this s all going down?
2- it’s my understanding that you’d point the #1 on the dizzy to the roughly #4 plug on the block.
Click to expand...
After the sleigh containing the last few parts arrive. Probably on or around the 17th of January for the pull. I'll have to drop the flywheel off for resurfacing. I still need to determine where to have that done in or near Boerne. I am optimistic that I'll pull it one weekend and put it back on the next, or the next after that... :)
 
Matt if the dizzy is properly installed you should be pretty close on the timing. It should not take much rotation of the dizzy to nail the timing once it’s been started. I’d run the oil pump with a drill first to move oil through the motor before setting the motor to TDC. Don’t be afraid to do that with the valve cover off to confirm oil flow and to make sure you are on the compression stroke when setting to TDC for the dizzy install (valves on #1 will be closed). No pressure man, take your time and get it right. Let me know if you need another set of hands.
 
77mustard40 said:
Matt if the dizzy is properly installed you should be pretty close on the timing. It should not take much rotation of the dizzy to nail the timing once it’s been started. I’d run the oil pump with a drill first to move oil through the motor before setting the motor to TDC. Don’t be afraid to do that with the valve cover off to confirm oil flow and to make sure you are on the compression stroke when setting to TDC for the dizzy install (valves on #1 will be closed). No pressure man, take your time and get it right. Let me know if you need another set of hands.
Click to expand...
Thanks! The work is going to happen over in Pipe Creek (Bandera County southwest of Boerne). If it was at my house, I'd have you and @RevISK over for barbeque and beer while we did the hard work.

I figure leave the distributor clamp "soft" so I can grab it and adjust on the fly. I saw the note in the FSM about :
Set No 1 cylinder to 7* BTDC. Align the timing ball with pointer. At this time, rocker arms on No 1 cylinder should be loose and rocker arms on No 6 should be tight.
Click to expand...
I assume that prevents the 180* out of sync issue.
 
Correct you just need to make sure you are at the top of the compression stroke. The FSM does a good job of showing the dizzy orientation on installation, just make sure it sits all the way down into the slot on the oil pump. It may take a couple stabs to nail it, take your time and get it right. IIRC it’s pretty easy to see if you are a tooth off.

I have a hard copy 2F Engine factory service manual if you need to borrow it.
 
77mustard40 said:
Correct you just need to make sure you are at the top of the compression stroke. The FSM does a good job of showing the dizzy orientation on installation, just make sure it sits all the way down into the slot on the oil pump. It may take a couple stabs to nail it, take your time and get it right. IIRC it’s pretty easy to see if you are a tooth off.

I have a hard copy 2F Engine factory service manual if you need to borrow it.
Click to expand...
I have been meaning to buy a hard copy but would be happy to borrow yours!
 
77mustard40 said:
Correct you just need to make sure you are at the top of the compression stroke. The FSM does a good job of showing the dizzy orientation on installation, just make sure it sits all the way down into the slot on the oil pump. It may take a couple stabs to nail it, take your time and get it right. IIRC it’s pretty easy to see if you are a tooth off.

I have a hard copy 2F Engine factory service manual if you need to borrow it.
Click to expand...
Your safest bet as a newb stabbing a dizzy is to deliberately stab it wrong the first time, so you can recognize the difference when you hit the G spot.😉
 
65swb45 said:
Your safest bet as a newb stabbing a dizzy is to deliberately stab it wrong the first time, so you can recognize the difference when you hit the G spot.😉
Click to expand...
That is the best advice I have heard in a long time 👍👍
 
@65swb45 I recall you saying there is a difference between the born on date and the model year for the carb. Based on the date code "7 L 17" this one is born on 1967 or 1977 December 17th. I don't recall which year you told me. I know there is significance to the tag "60203". This is mainly for my sanity when I am looking in the FSM for adjustment instructions it'll help to know which model year I am supposed to reference for the carb.

20250101_175633823_iOS.jpg
 
Do you have the 2F-type distributor clamp? I've broke two of those clamp bolts, and I don't trust old ones.

If your assistant will crank the engine, with a socket in the crank, or with the fan belt, or with the starter and the coil disconnected from the ignition switch, you can push down on the distributor body and the driving tang on the end of the distributor will mate with the oil pump in less than 180-degrees of turn. I've never done it this way.

The fender is in the way, often, but, if you can see from the fender's perspective (using a mirror)...
Vac Advance Distributor.jpg


There is about 1/4-inch engagement with the distributor shaft tang and the oil pump.
 
Grayscale said:
Do you have the 2F-type distributor clamp? I've broke two of those clamp bolts, and I don't trust old ones.

If your assistant will crank the engine, with a socket in the crank, or with the fan belt, or with the starter and the coil disconnected from the ignition switch, you can push down on the distributor body and the driving tang on the end of the distributor will mate with the oil pump in less than 180-degrees of turn. I've never done it this way.

The fender is in the way, often, but, if you can see from the fender's perspective (using a mirror)...
View attachment 3807092

There is about 1/4-inch engagement with the distributor shaft tang and the oil pump.
Click to expand...
I have two distributor clamps. One in use on the old engine and one that came with a dirty distributor on the new engine. I am going to test fit it while it is out of the truck.

20250103_181139246_iOS.jpg
 
mrboatman said:
That is the best advice I have heard in a long time 👍👍
Click to expand...
Hopefully hundreds will benefit from it. And I’m sure hundreds more will at least have a lightbulb moment reading it. How many will bother to acknowledge it by hitting the like button? The question of 2025.
 
It looks like the PO of the new engine had trouble with that distributor clamp screw as well... It is an M6x1.0 iirc; mine came from the Hillman collection at the hardware store, an all-chrome plated screw with 8.8-marking on the head. Your threads look rounded and corroded. At least you still have the square nut to re-use - do you have a tap to restore for the thread on the nut, if necessary?
 
MatthewMcD said:
@65swb45 I recall you saying there is a difference between the born on date and the model year for the carb. Based on the date code "7 L 17" this one is born on 1967 or 1977 December 17th. I don't recall which year you told me. I know there is significance to the tag "60203". This is mainly for my sanity when I am looking in the FSM for adjustment instructions it'll help to know which model year I am supposed to reference for the carb.

View attachment 3807064
Click to expand...
The 7 is irrelevant. The tag is your go-to. 60203 is the microfiche reference number for the carb it was designed to replace
 
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