Native SJ/CA 87 FJ60 Build

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Exactly - finding a lot that needs to be done to bring this to the restored shape I’m shooting for. All a part of the fun!

On that note, today the clutch rather dramatically gave out. Upon further inspection, this little puppy decided to take a dump all over my drivers side floor.

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Looks like a new clutch master cylinder is in the cards as well.
 
Update: replaced the clutch master and slave without issue. Pretty easy job really. I have all of the fluids drained from the engine. The coolant was surprisingly clean. Removed the oil cooler and oil filter bracket. Removed all of the bolts on the oil pan, but, it’s stuck good. Decided to take a lunch break and let the pan get used to the fact I am going to pry it loose.

Next up: clean up the oil cooler, oil filter bracket, and the passenger side of the engine. Since I am replacing the belts as well should I do the side cover gasket while I have all of this stuff off anyways? Also, is there a good source for the various air pump lines?

A couple of pics for everyone

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I’ve been able to get all of the belts, radiator and oil cooler hoses, oil and temperature sending units, cleaned up oil cooler, thermostat, pcv and a few other minor parts reinstalled between a University visit with my son (NAU @ Flagstaff) and other work. However, having a devil of a time removing the leaky EGR pipe (broke one stud) and also still trying to find a local replacement radiator drain petcock.

Oil pan is still dropped but hoping to get everything buttoned back up this week. With or without the EGR fix in place. Ha!

As an aside, is there any solution for replacing the headlight washer bottle?
 
Well - I spent the afternoon working on the EGR pipe and was able to finally get it removed. But, I’ve tried everything and can’t get either the broken or not broken stud out. I guess I will try drilling them tomorrow unless anyone else has ideas. Time for a :beer: or :beer::beer::beer:
 
Update: got the EGR pipe back on. I had to drill the broken stud and re-thread. I just left the other stud for now. I only have two heat shields to reinstall before filling with fluids/checking for leaks.

My advice for anyone thinking of replacing the EGR pipe on the vehicle. Don’t : buy new hardware for everything, gaskets etc, take the manifold off and do it right the first time. It will probably end up being less effort and the same or less time.

If you break one of the EGR studs. Definitely stop there and proceed to the advice above. It won’t be quite right if you continue down the rathole trying to fix it on the vehicle.

What a PITA

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On another subject - without oil in the vehicle, it’s clear there is another source for an oil type leak. It looks like it’s coming from where the front drive shaft connects to the transfer case. Any thoughts there?

Looking forward to moving on to my next item on the list! :hillbilly:
 
I had the same issue, turned out to be a leaking clutch slave cylinder, that oil got on everything. Noticed the picture of the leaking clutch master and if that's leaking odds are the clutch slave isn't far behind. Best part is it's relatively inexpensive to replace
 
Stumped - I’ve looked at the vacuum diagrams and emissions manuals and can’t seem to figure out where to connect the small white valve under the air cleaner and the connection on top of the air cleaner. Do they connevtnto each other? Any help is greatly appreciated. I’m stuck!

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Thank you @NookShneer

I ended up posting separate and received an answer (tu @mattressking) - for anyone reading this in the future, here is the thread: Vacuum Air Cleaner - Stumped

Another hiccup I had was a pegged oil pressure gauge - turned out I fell for the trap of plugging in the wire to the tab on the side of the sender instead of the center post as is correct. My oil pressure is reading in the bottom third now though. Not sure if that's ok or what's happening.

I had the same issue, turned out to be a leaking clutch slave cylinder, that oil got on everything. Noticed the picture of the leaking clutch master and if that's leaking odds are the clutch slave isn't far behind. Best part is it's relatively inexpensive to replace

I think it may have actually been a little cleaner sitting on top of a indent in the shaft connector slowly leaking down. Since buttoning up the oil pan and all of the hoses I haven't had a drip (less than 24 hours though).

However, you guys will love this, I did have a scare this morning when I climbed under the truck to check for leaks. Further back towards the transfer case there was a rather large puddle of liquid. A shimmied back there and upon further visual and manual inspection, it didn't feel like oil/fluids and didn't smell like any fluid, gas or otherwise. Then it dawned on me, luckily before I TASTED it, clear(ish) cat puke!

Reminds me of a story my grandfather used to tell...
 
So, tonight while working on the rig the cat got into a can of gas I had pulled out of the tank. By the time I realized what was happening she’d slugged down quite a bit. She then proceeded to run around the garage at full speed for several minutes, then stopped in her tracks and fell over...

I still have issues with the oil pressure guage. It’s reading low, rarely above 1/3. I think it may be fried. Anyone know what my options are here? A search didn’t turn up any easy solutions.
 
Installed the new Tough Dog Suspension components over the weekend (thanks @reevesci). So far I am extremely pleased with the ride and refreshed look from the old worn out springs. Everything came off without incident and because the underside had been steamed cleaned, with little mess. Here are some before and after photos. BEFORE: Stock Original AFTER: Tough Dog

Front Before

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Front After

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Rear Before

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Rear After

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