Native SJ/CA 87 FJ60 Build

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No quick fix on that, wait it out till you have time to do the re-build.

It's totally do-able to do yourself. Parts aren't expensive the labor is what makes the job intensive.

Do one side then the other. First side could take a day maybe 2. The other side will only be half that time.

Dirty and lots of cleaning, painting parts also slows the process with cure time.
 
The differential is filled with oil to lubricate the Ring and Pinion as you drive it whirls and sprays oil inside the diff. They turn the front axles (when hubs are locked and/or 4wd is engaged) which are inside the axle housing.
Near the outer ends there is a seal that that presses against the housing and the axle shafts ride inside it. In the outer ends of the axle (knuckle and hubs) the bearings that support the end of the axle and turning require grease and not oil. That seal separates the oil in the diff from the grease in the bearing assembly.

Over time it wears out allows oil to weep past and into the knuckle which then collects to the lowest point (generally dropping onto the inside of the tire)

Hope that helps

Dave
 
I finished the underside of the truck! Going back, I had it steam cleaned, detailed it with grease remover, repainted all of the skid plates and heat guards, new fasteners, new 3M undercoating, touch up paint on frame and axles, new fluids and grease. Thx again to @reevesci for the awesome Tough Dog suspension. After several hundred miles, the ride is smooth, loving it. Super pumped to be done with the underside, for now.

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I finished the underside of the truck! Going back, I had it steam cleaned, detailed it with grease remover, repainted all of the skid plates and heat guards, new fasteners, new 3M undercoating, touch up paint on frame and axles, new fluids and grease. Thx again to @reevesci for the awesome Tough Dog suspension. After several hundred miles, the ride is smooth, loving it. Super pumped to be done with the underside, for now.

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What paint did you use on axles? That undercarriage looks too clean to drive!
 
Tint installed. 35% on the back half 40% on the front. I didn’t want to go too dark and am happy with the result. Also wash, clay bar, polish compound and two coats of wax. The polishing compound really brought out the paint and cleaned up some scratches/marks.

Before
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After
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Before
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After
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The exterior is nearly complete, just a dent fix where the snake blinder mounts, some work in the grill, and Gobi racks on order.

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Are you able to share what led lights you used and what needle paint was used?

Here is the invoice from superbrightleds.com with part numbers and counts which includes all dash lights as well as the two interior domes. For needle paint I just used hobby store neon acrylic, mine was a brand called Folk Art 2875 Orange.

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Smells like gear oil ...

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I have a little bit of oil spread along the underside in line with where the driveshaft connects to the transfer case. The transfer case is dry. Is there a chance gear oil is coming into the shaft, leaking out and being flung in a line across the underside? The mystery to me is the drive shaft appears pretty dry too. It's not enough to form a drip yet but would love to take care of it. Any ideas?
 
could be from the t/case. Check gear oil levels in the t/case and the trans. Make sure the oil is not leaking from the fill or drain plugs. MAKE SURE you do NOT overtighten the fill plug on the t/case. It is a steel plug in an aluminum housing and very common to strip. If it is already stripped it may be the source of the leak. Yes it can travel down to the output flange. You can replace the companion flange seals w/out rebuilding the entire t/case. Just remove the drive shafts...make match marks first so you know they will be balanced when you put them back on. The nut on the companion flange is a staked nut so you'll need another to re-install.
 
Thanks @g-man - the whole tcase seems to be dry. Is there a seal in the drive shaft itself that could spring a leak maybe? Or, I am thinking it may be something else. It just doesn't make sense because everything is pretty dry except where it isn't lol I am starting to wonder if that rear heater tube, where the electrical tape is in the pic, is dripping down onto the drive shaft and then flinging around making it look like oil?
 
Thanks @g-man - the whole tcase seems to be dry. Is there a seal in the drive shaft itself that could spring a leak maybe? Or, I am thinking it may be something else. It just doesn't make sense because everything is pretty dry except where it isn't lol I am starting to wonder if that rear heater tube, where the electrical tape is in the pic, is dripping down onto the drive shaft and then flinging around making it look like oil?

Is the trans overfilled?
 

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