Builds My New Project (1 Viewer)

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I have many things to keep up with trying to zero this ride in.

And in between, I have to take a few breaks to enjoy life.

I needed to check my braking after @J Mack got me thinking about the push rod length. I took a trip into town and noticed the smell of hot brakes. The smell came from the front right. I decided to check the push rod for correct length. I ended up finding all the measurement for the pin tool on Amazon so I decided to fire up my mill and build my own version. I didn't have wide enough plastic stock but figured i could still be close enough if there was enough surface to validate it was sitting flat on the master and again on the booster.

Good news, my push rod was the correct length. Bad news, I'm not sure where the hot brake came from. I pulled my raft to Pagosa Springs and back with no issues. I did make an adjustment on the pedal rod just in case it was applying pressure.

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Are you on the San Juan up there?
Yes sir, first trip for me on the San Juan. The Animas is home base since it's only a couple miles away.
 
Yep, I can hardly get the raft or kayaks in the water because everyone wants to ask about my Landcruiser. #1 term people use to describe it is: “That’s Badass!”.
 
Well, I took the cruiser mountain biking and when I returned, gas was running out my gas cap. I’m kind of rethinking how to approach this. Gas was coming out the filler neck.

Thoughts? Will a charcoal canister handle that much fuel expansion? I was under the impression that the canister was all about vapors. There’s more than just vapors here.

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So your tank is building pressure while your driving?? I know on my old Fords I have to pull the nozzle out a little before pumping or it will fill too much. Your tank will expand with the Temps. I've filled on afternoons and noticed gas odors in morning when tank contracts?? Possible!! Try filling in morning??
 
The picture here is not after driving. It was just running out of the filler neck after being parked for an hour or more.
 
With all my exposure to gasoline when working in petroleum pipe lines, it's fair to say I'm confident it's something in design on the 55 side. Filling up in the evenings (which I did this time) means the gasoline was likely at its warmest temp and therefore took up the most volume in my tank. It's temp however was likely colder in the ground than once it was in the 55 tank. As it warms, it's going to expand. If pumped in the morning vs the afternoon isn't going to change things much. Because the gas was in a ground tank means ambient temp isn't going to affect it much as it pumps.

The pump nozzle shut off like every pump nozzle. Nothing spewed from my tank at the time and I even tried to listen for when it starts to come up the filler neck so I could manually stop it. The sound didn't change enough for me to know it was coming up the neck. The nozzle shut it off before I could.

So the situation as I can determine is the fuel level is somewhere beteen the tank inlet and the filler cap. It doesn't take much of a turn to slosh it to the top, nor does it take much temperature increase to expand the gas up the filler tube. The real question is what can be designed to prevent it from coming out the cap?

I'm assuming my cap is vented but I'm not sure. The description says 'vacuum vented'. I took that to mean it would allow outside air into the tank as fuel is used but not let gas out. (Is my understanding correct for vacuum venting?).

Maybe I just need to vent to air ( I've already ordered the check valve) and buy a non vented cap.
 
Ok! I was just giving you my experience on older vehicles!!! And I also spent years doing soil remediation and installs of full service stations from tanks to lines and pumps!! All installs are not the same, nor are the nozzles on the pumps , they all work differently!! Ambient temperature plays a role in every aspect of life regardless of how minimal it still affects certain fluids especially gas and oil and water in different ways!! With expansion and contraction!! Was just trying to solve your issue with my knowledge!! If you don't want it I'll shut the **** up 🤔
 
No you're cool.
 
I had the same problem. Checked every hose every component. All components are original. Just for experimenting sake I removed the check valve that connected to that strange contraption in the left rear quarter above the filler.

That was several years ago and I have had no spitting up since then. No one I talked to could give me a definitive answer
 
Do you have a vent line now? And what tank do you have?
When I built mine I had the two overflow lines go in to the side of the tank at the same level as at the filler. I had poor venting too and what I think happens is the fumes build up and go to the top of the tank and push the fuel up the over flow. I then moved the overflows to the top of the tank and put a really long vent line and have it vent to the fuel door area. That was what Jmack suggested. I was mostly overflowing while driving because on the old efi I used a return line and I think it came back from he engine pretty warm.
 
I had the same problem. Checked every hose every component. All components are original. Just for experimenting sake I removed the check valve that connected to that strange contraption in the left rear quarter above the filler.

That was several years ago and I have had no spitting up since then. No one I talked to could give me a definitive answer
I recal someone saying they changed a bad check valve, propably needs a vent other than fuel cap.
 
@Megadoomer I'm thinking I have the same problem as you. I installed a return line for the LS motor and have just the stock tank that had two lines that traveled up to the filler neck. I going to add a check valve and run one hose up higher than the filler opening and vent it externally and not through the cap.

I never thought about locating the vent screen within the filler opening. Great idea. I was going to see if I could put the vent screen on the interior side of the lower quarter panel. Either way, I'll have an improved venting situation.

I also think this cap is bad based on the fuel that comes out. It reads like it should hold liquid in.
 
I ordered a 2 inch filler neck and cap from Fillerneck Supply hoping to solve my full tank fuel spill down the side of my 55.

The install was relatively straight forward. I had to cut some of the filler neck away and install rivet nuts. (What did I ever do before I bought a rivet nut tool?)

After all my work, I still have my full tank dribble down the side. Hmmmm.

Is it the new cap? Or is it my fuel return line that I installed for the LS motor? My tank is before charcoal canisters so it has two vent lines to the filler neck and that’s it. The new filler neck has one nipple so it just tee’d the two hoses together. Since I brazed a return line fitting on the tank, could it be pressuring the tank and pushing fuel out the cap? The cap is vacuum vented so I would assume pressure would close off the cap vent and no fuel should escape via the cap. At least that’s my logic on the topic.

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I thought all the Piggies had some form of charcoal cannister for vapor recovery?

Those 2 lines tied to the fill neck are to aid in filling the tank, but they don't deal with the pressure generated when the volume of gasoline warms and generates vapors.

I see there are more replies in here, so I will read before I bore you with too many words in case it has all been said already...
 

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