Builds My New Project (1 Viewer)

[scrapdaddy]

NikP,

I'm mounting the booster the other way, any reason you went that way? The booster will work either way and I'm not sure why I chose the other. Hoses on the bottom I guess.

 

[NikP]

NikP,

I'm mounting the booster the other way, any reason you went that way? The booster will work either way and I'm not sure why I chose the other. Hoses on the bottom I guess.

LOL. Im not sure why I chose this way other that this was the orientation when I pulled the booster at the salvage yard. I'm not sure the stock GM will bolt up if positioned the other way.

@RUSH55 I have to laugh because when I took the pictures I thought the master cylinder needs paint but I was too lazy and didn't want to remove it from the 55 and hassle with bleeding brakes and such. But I agree it needs paint.

Here is my Hydro boost parts list.

Booster from 2004 Chevy Tahoe - From my research almost all the hydro boost units are the same across Ford, GM, Dodge, and Chrysler so grab what's available. - Salvage yard $60.

The mounting plate has to be modified to fit the 55 firewall hole pattern. The mounting plate has a key way although I'm not sure the key does anything but position the unit. There are generic mounting plates available that can be drilled for your firewall bolt pattern. I simply modified what came with the salvage yard unit. I used hammer and chisel to loosen the mounting plate retaining nut. It's a 1 7/8 inch square pattern and I've heard people can use a 2inch receiver hitch to spin the nut off. I had to weld a 3/16 plate to one side to center the unit around the bolt pattern. I had to redrill all 4 mounting holes and I reused the GM studs and tack welded them to the mounting plate. I think the GM studs might force you to enlarge your firewall holes.

From my 5.3 power steering pump to the booster I used the stock GM hose.

Edelmann 80338 Power Steering Pressure Hose - Amazon $20.50.

My FJ60 power steering gear was already adapted to a -6AN fitting. So I made a -6AN hose to go from the booster to the gear. You only need about 3ft of hose. This required adapters at the booster.

Everbuilt 6AN To 16mm & 6AN to 18mm Power Steering Fittings With O Rings Compatible for GM Chevy Buick Cadillac Power Steering Pump Gear Box Adapter fittings -6 To 16 & -6 to 18 - Amazon $14.95.

Earl's Performance -6 Black Power Steering Hose 6 Ft Pc. - Amazon $62.56.

Earl's Performance 139106ERL - Earl's Performance Power Steering Hose Ends - Summit Racing. $22.14ea.

The only other part required was a tee for the return line.

Horiznext Brass Hose Splicer Fitting, Tee, 3/8" x 3/8" x 3/8" Hose ID Barbed - Amazon $6.50

 

[Megadoomer]

NikP,

I'm mounting the booster the other way, any reason you went that way? The booster will work either way and I'm not sure why I chose the other. Hoses on the bottom I guess.

The accumulator goes on the bottom closer to the engine on every set up I have seen.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I wonder why, Hydratech says it can go either way and work the same. Mine is a Bosch booster, but I think all of yours are too. It might be a fitment issue.

Read down the page a bit.

Hydratech Braking Systems :: Street Rod / Universal Hydraulic Brake Assist System Listings

Hydratech Braking Systems Street Rod Universal High Performance Hydraulic Brake Assist System Listings

www.hydratechbraking.com

 

[NikP]

@RUSH55 I hope you’re happy now. (After getting called out for shoddy work I had to do something about it. Thanks for kicking me in the butt. )

 

[scrapdaddy]

Wow, that was fast and looks great!

 

[xtiaan2000]

Psycked on this topic!

Is it possible to use the non ABS fj80 master?

 

[NikP]

Psycked on this topic!

Is it possible to use the non ABS fj80 master?

It just depends on the bolt pattern between the booster and master. I suspect the answer is no, although I've not researched it. The fj80 master is a 4-bolt pattern vs the 2-bolt from the typical hydro booster.

 

[NikP]

So my friends' car broke down, so we took my 55 to Moab this week. I pulled into one of the parks to pay the entrance fees and was alerted to issues when light smoke came from under the hood. My hydroboost was leaking oil and dripping on the headers. I know @scrapdaddy's thoughts of salvage yard boosters might have been the preferred option, but I'm not sure I'll end up ahead.

I put a new seal in it before the install. It held fine for 200 miles then leaked more than the typical "seeping" you read about. I limped it home to Durango with frequent stops to top off fluid. I tore it apart last night and found nothing obvious. There's only one seal, so I've ordered another from another vender. Just for fun I put it back together and it still leaks, but not as much.

Ill give it another seal and see what happens.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Sorry to hear of your troubles, but that's the main reason I don't like used. My luck sucks and most times it not worth it to me. My luck the engine would of caught on fire.

 

[RUSH55]

Nik, if you get a chance, would you be able to get some pics of the seal and port where the leak is coming from. Sorry to hear you’re having issues, but the Hydro-boost, cool kid community needs to have further understanding and awareness on your behalf. Might need to end up biting the bullet and getting a new/reman unit from NAPA or something?

 

[RUSH55]

Just go to the junk yard. Look at 3/4 or 1 ton GM diesel trucks and pay the nice man $50 - $100 and be done with it.

 

[Megadoomer]

3 years. No problem. I stand by my statement.

 

[NikP]

3 years. No problem. I stand by my statement.

Maybe I should have just bolted it on and not tried the preventive seal option.

 

[scrapdaddy]

My motto.....Fix it until it's broke!

 

[RUSH55]

Probably went out because he didn’t do a “Scrapdaddy style” tear down, complete with pictures and words of wisdom.

 

[J Mack]

Maybe I should have just bolted it on and not tried the preventive seal option.

Smart money will grab a complete unit from the scrap yard just like you did, several of the parts are hard to come by separate and they are unique between models. If you have a hydroboost form a known year and it is leaking then it’s easy enough to get a reman and confirm measurements BEFORE you turn in the core.

 

[scrapdaddy]

For scrapyard prices you could have a backup on the shelve.

 

[NikP]

The unique thing about these units seems to be the mounting plate. So it really doesn’t matter what these come off. I’ve seen reman units from $85 without a mounting plate. I’m not too worried even if I have to go that route.

For reference, here’s where mine is leaking. I’ve read the slightest scratch on the power piston will cause a leak. I’ll have to look more closely when I remove it next. I’m thinking it’s just forged aluminum so I bet some 1500-2000-2500-3000 grit sandpaper might take care of anything I find. Not sure yet.

 

[J Mack]

The unique thing about these units seems to be the mounting plate.

Not necessarily true, I posted this in the hydro boost thread..
Just for clarification I'll post this picture and we are talking about the Baffle & Spring Retainer, Piston Return Spring and the Output Rod. None of these items came with the new unit I originally bought and had to be sourced elsewhere, my problem came from not knowing that there is several sizes of output rods and only the correct size will work.

I have three units sitting on a shelf and three different length rods.
YMMD..