Builds My New Project (2 Viewers)

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Sure is good looking. I'd suggest taking a look behind the driver's cargo panel and see what type of emissions tank you have. Then maybe trace the vent lines to the tank and anywhere else. You really should have a vent other than the cap I would think. It wouldn't be hard to set one up if you don't have one now.

Glad you made it home, is that it now done with Oklahoma?
 
I find myself driving the 55 more but the braking sucks. I can’t lock up tires on a gravel road.

I’m waiting the a seal kit for the hydro boost unit I picked up but decided to get things prepped for when it’s here.

The original mount needed adjusted to center with the firewall hole so I did a little fabrication. I also cut the GM end off the pedal rod and threaded it to fit my spare clevis pin.

Swapped out stock hoses for -AN fittings although I ordered a stock GM pressure hose since it should attach directly with my GM power steering pump. It was $20 and much cheaper than buying -AN fittings.

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Nice! I'm hoping to not spend more than $1400. Stupid I know, but everything is new and shiny. :)

EDIT...That big nut on the hydroboost, I had to buy a 1 7/8" open end wrench for that. That wrench is almost 2' long.
 
Nice! I'm hoping to not spend more than $1400. Stupid I know, but everything is new and shiny. :)

EDIT...That big nut on the hydroboost, I had to buy a 1 7/8" open end wrench for that. That wrench is almost 2' long.
I tackled the nut with a hammer and chisel. I couldn’t bring myself to spend money on a tool I would never use again. My dad had all those tools for working on heavy equipment and I had no use to keep them. (Until this one nut).
 
The perks of doing work at Steve's house he has 2 of every tool that ever existed.

I probably spent about $200. The lines fit right up but I needed a new reservoir lid and a proportion valve.
 
I couldn't bring myself to buy the tool either and I ended up using the receiver from my truck with a couple of small shims. Read it on another forum and it worked like a champ.
 
Nice! I'm hoping to not spend more than $1400. Stupid I know, but everything is new and shiny. :)

EDIT...That big nut on the hydroboost, I had to buy a 1 7/8" open end wrench for that. That wrench is almost 2' long.
I have a set of wrenches up to 3”, but the need for them ended 40 years ago.

I do have a hydraboost on the 40 and I love it.
probablg not running 35s on the 40 after the rebuild, so maybe I’ll move it the 74 fj55.

does anyone have an opinion on running a gm hydraboost with a Toyota PS pump?
 
One of the things I noticed when driving around yesterday was the whine from the transfer case. I have the original 3-speed case, it was rebuilt and I have no idea what it sounded like prior to my build. Is this just an issue based on technology available 50 years ago or is there a suggestion for reducing the whine?

I plan to swap oil out after a short period of time since it was rebuilt so I can see if there are any issues and I was going to experiment with other oils.

Suggestions?

long ago I asked this exact question.
 
Hopefully you guys can forgive my ignorance here, but what is it the hydroboost does that the vacuum operated booster doesn’t? Is it supposed to supply more pressure to the master? All I know is that they’re used more on diesel powered trucks because of the lack of vacuum.
 
It's my understanding vacuum isn't as constant as the hydroboost from the power steering. LS motors are not known for a ton of boost in all situations, especially motors with hotter cams, etc. Better stopping power all the way around. A good example is my M37, the more throttle I give it the slower the vacuum wipers go.
 
More line pressure.

The were found a lot on 1/2 to 1 ton GM truck and vans.

The hot rod crowd likes them because they’re easier to fit due to the lack of a vacuum diaphragm. This is why they were used in vans, too.

they can result in a non-linear pedal, but some people like that on a truck with big tires. I do.
 
I had the late 55 booster and MC with disc brakes and it did not like to stop. I always had to down shift on a hill. Just going to GM hydro and MC and not doing anything to rest of the system it stops as good as any new truck.
 
I had the late 55 booster and MC with disc brakes and it did not like to stop. I always had to down shift on a hill. Just going to GM hydro and MC and not doing anything to rest of the system it stops as good as any new truck.

I have a 74 with discs in front (TLC/SSBC “monster calipers” for a 60-series), and drums (used to be 55, now 62) in rear on 35s and it stops like a champ using the MC and booster that was in the truck when I bought it.

I can look all four wheels at 60mph on pavement if I “shock” (panic stop) the tires a bit.

doesn’t really get much better than that on a non-ABS vehicle. It literally stops better than the 80 does.

and I still might go hydraboost. 😀
 
I can’t offer my experience in this yet, so maybe this thought won’t work, but has anyone tried an fj60 booster and MC? I talked to guy who put that on his 40 to avoid the expense of the booster and it’s worked really well for him. Just a thought.

And now back to our regularly scheduled programming.
 
Yeah! I can lock up my 35’s. It stops now! What a difference. Everything bolted up just fine. My $20 stock GM hose is a bit tight but functional. The 55 must place the booster a couple inches further from the power steering pump.

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