- Thread starter
- #21
How does a guy go about downloading the manual?
Builds My build thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Sd1975
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GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
- This is a Denso manual that explains in detail how the 2LTE electronic diesel works. It's an excellent read:
V 3 P5ZGR01.pdf
- These are the engine manuals for the L series engines. They do not cover the electronic injection system, but everything else is applicable to the 2LTE motor:
RM520E (Main for 2L, 3L & 5L engines)
Dropbox - 2L 3L 5L ENGINE RM520E.pdf
RM582E (Supplement for 2L, 2L-T, 3L and 5L engines)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1joci2o0xtg6ujv/2L%2C2L-T%2C3L%2C5L ENGINE SUP. RM582E.pdf?dl=0
Here is the manual that covers the rest of the vehicle (RM183E):
_KZJ70_HZJ_PZJ_chassis_body.pdf
Another version of RM183E that is more complete (includes sections missing in the other version), but is a little mixed up:
RM183e.pdf
drive.google.com
Electrical Schematics for the Japanese 70 series (including LJ78):
'90-'92 70-Series Wiring Manual.pdf
drive.google.com
2LTE pump specs:
2LTE_Pump_Specs.pdf
drive.google.com
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- Thread starter
- #23
Thank you!!!!!!
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
You're welcome. As mentioned, I'll post a few more for you once I upload them.
Edit, I uploaded them and added the links to the others. Let me know if you there are any issues downloading. I have more stuff for these trucks too, including the original Japanese sales brochure...LOL. It'll make you laugh, but also you'll realize the intended clientele for these trucks.
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GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
You have to remove your injection lines from the injection pump too. It's a real knuckle scratcher under there....
If you pull the 4 nuts off of the glow plugs that bus bar will lift right off. Just be a little careful with them. The plastic covers will be brittle. Not a catastrophe if you break one, just makes them a little tricky to get off after the plastic crumbles. I suggest a 6 point deep socket and not the slotted head.
And it's definitely a knuckle scratcher down around that pump. Every time I do something down there, I spend a few minutes looking at it trying to talk myself out of whatever is about to make me work down there.
And it's definitely a knuckle scratcher down around that pump. Every time I do something down there, I spend a few minutes looking at it trying to talk myself out of whatever is about to make me work down there.
- Thread starter
- #29
Yeah I figured this out after messing with it for an hour. Never actually took them off though. Just slowly but surely worked the intake towards firewall until i could get front out from in between both sets of fuel lines. I did have to tweak on fuel lines some but after inspection, none of them appear to have been kinked. I would have removed lines from injection pump but never could get them to break loose. Broke my knuckles a couple times. I just need better tools haha.
Guess I'll see when I get it all put back together whether or not I have any leaks. Intake and throttle body is much cleaner now
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
If you have an open ended 17mm wrench you should have been able to crack the fuel lines off the pump ok. Maybe someone over-tightened them in the past? I think I removed the skirt from the wheel well, turned my tire a certain way and reached in that way to crack the fuel lines. Make sure the wrench is square to the nut and it is much less likely to slip. Start with the lines that are easy to get at, once they're removed you can get to the ones behind.
Bending them is a bad idea. They might bend one way ok, but when you bend them back at reassembly they get really weakened and there is a chance they can crack. There is 2200psi in there.... If you bent them a lot, I'd be looking for some spares on ebay asap.....
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Ouch! Yeah, someone definitely WAY over-torqued those!
- Thread starter
- #34
Also the attached photo shows the two smaller coolant lines that run over to throttle body area. Will disconnecting these like I had to cause air to get into coolant lines? Do I need to burp/bleed coolant system afterwards or no?
Probably be pretty minimal. I have had mine off a million times and never done anything special about it.
I know you live in Missouri but temps probably get close to or under freezing a time or two in the winter. So, be careful with the waterless coolant, it starts to get thick as the temps drop. Don't know what if anything will be affected or not with it in the winter, just something to keep in mind.
- Thread starter
- #38
Hmmmm, yeah it gets below freezing consistently in winter. Shoot, this week we had a couple night that got down to around 4 degrees
- This is a Denso manual that explains in detail how the 2LTE electronic diesel works. It's an excellent read:
V 3 P5ZGR01.pdf
- These are the engine manuals for the L series engines. They do not cover the electronic injection system, but everything else is applicable to the 2LTE motor:
RM520E (Main for 2L, 3L & 5L engines)
Dropbox - 2L 3L 5L ENGINE RM520E.pdf
RM582E (Supplement for 2L, 2L-T, 3L and 5L engines)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1joci2o0xtg6ujv/2L%2C2L-T%2C3L%2C5L ENGINE SUP. RM582E.pdf?dl=0
Here is the manual that covers the rest of the vehicle (RM183E):
_KZJ70_HZJ_PZJ_chassis_body.pdf
Another version of RM183E that is more complete (includes sections missing in the other version), but is a little mixed up:
RM183e.pdf
Electrical Schematics for the Japanese 70 series (including LJ78):
'90-'92 70-Series Wiring Manual.pdf
2LTE pump specs:
2LTE_Pump_Specs.pdf
Another good reference for electrical is the EWD-168F from August 1992 that addresses FZJ, HZJ, PZJ, LJ and RJ.
I tried to upload the PDF, but it was too large and donot have a drop box to load it in...
