Build My build thread

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CharlesHS said:
Whenever I need to work on brake lines, fuel lines or hydraulic lines; I use flare nut wrenches to ensure I get a good grip and don't round off the facets.
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That’s why I bought a snap on 10mm just for the brakes wrench like that. Snap op ones seem to fit the tightest.
 
coldtaco said:
That’s why I bought a snap on 10mm just for the brakes wrench like that. Snap op ones seem to fit the tightest.
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Yeah, I bought one for brake lines many years ago. Should buy one for injector lines too; that's a good idea...
 
So first mods done. New rocker cover gasket and painted. Catch can installed. Throttle body and intake manifold cleaned of all carbon and oil build up. Had a couple injector lines leaking but snuggled them up and all appears to be fine. Seems to breath a little better. Wouldn't win a race against a Geo Metro but that's okay. Thank you all for your ideas and direction. More to come very soon. Just signed contract on house but shouldn't hold up things to much

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Looking good.
Look into getting all the EGR and the throttle plate in the intake off and it will help the low end acceleration a lot. Still won't win any races, but it will take off from a standstill easier.
 
Nas90tdi said:
Looking good.
Look into getting all the EGR and the throttle plate in the intake off and it will help the low end acceleration a lot. Still won't win any races, but it will take off from a standstill easier.
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I thought about removing baffle in throttle body while I had it off but didn't understand all the ins and outside so I didn't. Will look into egr delete further
 
Its held on by 2 screws that have been crimped after they were installed. So, you have to drill them out. It's a pretty easy mod and will make you low end much more responsive. Only real piece of advice on that, do not mess with you throttle position sensor. A couple of people have taken them off trying to figure out the removal and it opens a can of worms you do not want open.
 
So you just drill out screws and remove the flapper valve? Do you fill holes with JB weld or what? Any vids or pics on Mud?
 
No need. Just take the flap out. Both that large one and the small one.
Tons of pics of this mod. I will see if I can find a couple of threads on it.
This is mine. I ground the crimped ends off and was able to unscrew them. That doesn't always work and then you can just drill them out.

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Wow! So you'll have to forgive my ignorance. So what is the purpose of these flappers? Is it necessary to do these at the same time as egr delete? I'm still learning one step at a time brother. Can I do this and then go through all necessary steps to delete egr later?
Nas90tdi said:
No need. Just take the flap out. Both that large one and the small one.
Tons of pics of this mod. I will see if I can find a couple of threads on it.
This is mine. I ground the crimped ends off and was able to unscrew them. That doesn't always work and then you can just drill them out.

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If you look through the first thread link in my signature there are photos of removing the throttle plates and disabling the EGR (I didn’t delete all the pieces of the system, just made sure they no longer operated). The throttle plates are there to create some vacuum in the intake to help suck in the exhaust gases. At idle they are almost entirely closed, causing a significant air restriction. With the plates removed the engine can actually breathe at low RPMs and initial throttle response is much better.
 
forum.ih8mud.com

Ideas for improving the 2LTE

Updated February 23, 2016 I own an LJ78 Landcruiser Prado (2LTE), and I love it. These vehicles are very well built and generally as tough as other cruisers with the exception of the small IDI turbo diesel 2LTE engine. I feel they are one of the most undervalued and unappreciated cruisers out...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
Give that thread a read. Lot's of ideas that Nick has come up with. Explains a lot of the ins and outs of the 2LTE. @GTSSportCoupe is definitely the resident expert on modifying the 2LTE. I am mostly following in his footsteps to some degree.
My thread in my signature has some info as well.
I have pictures of most things done on these trucks when I can find them if you need pictures.
If you are pulling the throttle body, the EGR system is easily taken off at that time. Really the only part of it that takes any time is the return pipe that goes behind the engine to the exhaust. It can be a bit of a bitch to get off. But, you can block it on the other end until you get to it.
 
Well crap, I had return pipe off too while I was doing the work I did. Would have been a piece of cake then
 
Okay so when I first bought my LJ78, I ordered this clutch from Rough Trax 4x4. This was before I learned of the "blue fan clutch mod". It comes pre-filled with oil but I'm not sure which viscosity. Seems the general consensus is 10 000cst. What is everyone's thoughts on installing this?

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So yesterday after work I was doing some more tinkering and noticed for the second time that my LJ doesnt like to start on an incline. The first time was a couple weeks ago but it finally fired up, yesterday in never did, and I tried like 15 times. I rolled it down the hill to a more flat surface and it started right up. What the heck is that?
 
Sd1975 said:
So yesterday after work I was doing some more tinkering and noticed for the second time that my LJ doesnt like to start on an incline. The first time was a couple weeks ago but it finally fired up, yesterday in never did, and I tried like 15 times. I rolled it down the hill to a more flat surface and it started right up. What the heck is that?
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I've heard of this happening with mechanical injection pumps, but this is the first I've heard of it on the electronic pump. Not sure what the problem could be.... Any fuel leaks around your pump?
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
I've heard of this happening with mechanical injection pumps, but this is the first I've heard of it on the electronic pump. Not sure what the problem could be.... Any fuel leaks around your pump?
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Not that I can tell, do have one injector that seeps a little
 
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