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Okay so I'm working on installing my egt. Where have you all installed probe? I know pre turbo is best but I also know many guys have done it post turbo. Ive been racking my brain thinking how to get turbo off without getting myself into a big mess.Thinking right here somewhere on down pipe. For those that have done it on down pipe, where did you do it exactly?

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For the first couple years I only had a probe in the dump pipe. It's better than nothing! I drilled a hole in the top about 1/2" or so from the flange and poked the probe right down in front of the turbine (directly in the exhaust stream). Worked really well. Now that I have both pre and post turbine, the difference only seems to be about 100F; but then again my pre-turbo probe was $15 from China...LOL.
 
For the first couple years I only had a probe in the dump pipe. It's better than nothing! I drilled a hole in the top about 1/2" or so from the flange and poked the probe right down in front of the turbine (directly in the exhaust stream). Worked really well. Now that I have both pre and post turbine, the difference only seems to be about 100F; but then again my pre-turbo probe was $15 from China...LOL.
Okay awesome. That's what I'm gonna do for now. May change it later but I need to get something on there. What max temp should I be looking at for post turbo location like this
 
Okay awesome. That's what I'm gonna do for now. May change it later but I need to get something on there. What max temp should I be looking at for post turbo location like this

I avoid letting it go over 1000F post turbine. Before tuning/intercooling it would easily hit 1100-1200 post turbine on mild hills in the city even. Now it's very very hard to even get to 1000F towing 3500lb up an 8% grade in 90F weather.

If you find it's getting over a 1000F easily on yours, it's time for some tuning. What you need is a better air/fuel ratio (leaner is cooler). You'll need to increase air (boost) without an increase in fuel. Get a manual boost controller and an adjustable air bleed valve. Tune for 12-14psi from the turbo, but use the air bleed valve to trick the computer into thinking there is less boost. This way it won't add as much fuel. You'll run cooler EGT's, get more power and better fuel economy. Here is a thread on this: Reducing 2lte egt's
 
I avoid letting it go over 1000F post turbine. Before tuning/intercooling it would easily hit 1100-1200 post turbine on mild hills in the city even. Now it's very very hard to even get to 1000F towing 3500lb up an 8% grade in 90F weather.

If you find it's getting over a 1000F easily on yours, it's time for some tuning. What you need is a better air/fuel ratio (leaner is cooler). You'll need to increase air (boost) without an increase in fuel. Get a manual boost controller and an adjustable air bleed valve. Tune for 12-14psi from the turbo, but use the air bleed valve to trick the computer into thinking there is less boost. This way it won't add as much fuel. You'll run cooler EGT's, get more power and better fuel economy. Here is a thread on this: Reducing 2lte egt's
Okay we'll see how it does, can I spray some throttle body cleaner or something in turbo here to clean deposits? Seems like I read on here where someone did this. Or is it probably not necessary?

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Okay we'll see how it does, can I spray some throttle body cleaner or something in turbo here to clean deposits? Seems like I read on here where someone did this. Or is it probably not necessary?

The turbo spins slowly at idle. I've sprayed carb cleaner directly at the compressor to clean it off while my engine was idling before. The idle speed will jump a bit as the engine burns the stuff, but it doesn't seem to do any harm. Cleans the compressor/housing up a bit. Will clean the rest of the intake as well.
 
The turbo spins slowly at idle. I've sprayed carb cleaner directly at the compressor to clean it off while my engine was idling before. The idle speed will jump a bit as the engine burns the stuff, but it doesn't seem to do any harm. Cleans the compressor/housing up a bit. Will clean the rest of the intake as well.
The turbo spins slowly at idle. I've sprayed carb cleaner directly at the compressor to clean it off while my engine was idling before. The idle speed will jump a bit as the engine burns the stuff, but it doesn't seem to do any harm. Cleans the compressor/housing up a bit. Will clean the rest of the intake as well.
So my CRC throttle body and intake cleaner would do it correct? Right in the fins like in pic?
 
One thing to consider it that while it may be easier to put the probe in the dump pipe, as @GTSSportCoupe pointed out, it's not nearly as accurate. Pulling the turbo off isn't the most fun ever, but getting that probe right in the exhaust stream at the manifold collector is a much better read on what is actually happening. And, it's not that bad really. I think I can speak for several of us, we have had the turbo off multiple times, and if you use a never seize of some sort, it's easier the next few times. Also, an outstanding time to get that last crosspipe from the EGR system off when the turbo and dump pipe is out of the way
 
The 2 wires on your probe go directly to the gauge. No power to them. All they are doing is registering resistance that your gauge will interpret.
Power to your gauge should be grabbed in the cabinet on a switched 12V so that your gauge has power when you turn the key on.
 
The 2 wires on your probe go directly to the gauge. No power to them. All they are doing is registering resistance that your gauge will interpret.
Power to your gauge should be grabbed in the cabinet on a switched 12V so that your gauge has power when you turn the key on.
Right, just not sure on this factory aux power outlet. I ran the negative wire to the screw labeled "-E" and the hot wire to the one labeled "ACC", 10amp.
 
The 2 wires on your probe go directly to the gauge. No power to them. All they are doing is registering resistance that your gauge will interpret.
Power to your gauge should be grabbed in the cabinet on a switched 12V so that your gauge has power when you turn the key on.

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Aah, I see what you are doing. Yes, the ACC power is the switched accessory power. I would have to look at my box. I don't remember off the top of my head which is which on the others. I believe the other end is 12V constant. And the center is switched ignition power.
 
Aah, I see what you are doing. Yes, the ACC power is the switched accessory power. I would have to look at my box. I don't remember off the top of my head which is which on the others. I believe the other end is 12V constant. And the center is switched ignition power.
Do you know if the "-E" is a ground connection then?
 
Well, I went ahead and ground it in power outl
Just use the body of the vehicle for ground. There are tons of ground options in the dash. No need to run ground wires!
outlet box, works great! Took it on about a 10 mile spin, drove it harder than normal. Highest reading was about 950 degrees. With my probe location I'm assuming about 1050 degrees. What is the "it's about to grenade temp"? Just so I know where not to go. Still have to switch out thermostat. Added water wetter as well until the wifey will let me drop $250 on waterless coolant

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Next on agenda. Replace thermostat and delete EGR. Then shocks and maybe coils all the way around including stabilizer shock. Pretty sure all five are OEM but coils are aftermarket. Have my manual hub conversion kit coming from RADD Cruisers, should ship tomorrow. Last thing will be an ARB rear locker. Wish I could buy before 3/31 as compressors are free
 

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