My 76 1UZ build

[BoomerUZ]

Thanks @BoomerUZ, appreciate the feedback, also reassuring to know that it wasn't just me on the thermostat housing. I did finally get that to settle in on the 6th try, I should have thought of FIPG.

The ECU is the Link Monsoon, harness was built by Kelvin Glover (Cartunes) in NZ. I had originally tried to fix up the OEM, but i was too far gone - after a lot of back and forth with Kelvin, we decided to give up on my original and just go with the Link. It has a basic tune on it now, once up and running I will get it on a dyno and tighten things up. I have also done the air intake mods and just have the Lambda sensor left to install.

Hoping to get some time later this month to advance a bit on the truck, redoing a bit of the tunnel and building a better mount for all the shifters is the next thing, we'll see - tim eis contingent on clearing a boat project and getting going on residing the house

Oh yeah that thing will be great, I am very familiar with Kelvin. Hes an absolute wealth of knowledge.


as for Link, youre gonna have some trouble with a tuner. Very popular elsewhere, not so much in the US. Much like with megasquirt, but thankfully if you can tune a car at all, you can tune a MS. but I have a remote tuner, who I can get you in connection with. Ben Newell, out of england. He is one of the developers from the megasquirt - and also owns one of the THREE TRD V8 supercar series 1uzs that were ever made in his 1200hp MK4 supra. Guys wild. BMW 420G 6 speed with dual disk clutch, porsche diff, custom axles. cars a monster. If someone knows about tuning a UZ - its that guy. I have seen him make 314hp and 354ft/lbs on a completely stock engine tuned on mid grade gas.

Did you get a stock harness or did you get a modified?

At the stages of these engines aftermarket ecu saves a ton of headache, but aftermarket ECU with stock ignition system and KVF AFM is still a headache. lol my harness is with no idle air control valve, no EGR, I use a temp sensor and manifold pressure to tune on speed density and threw away the KVF AFM, I only use the bank 1 cam sensor, the other is removed, bosch donut knock sensors, supra 315cc injectors, and I am using the R8 coils. I know kelvin has options for VG35DETT coils, R8, 2UZ, Yaris, and theres even options to use LS coil packs - but personally I like the R8 ones because they snap onto the plug and super common to find. I had Yaris ones on my turbo engine which were great until I needed a new one and its a stupid 1.0L they only sell overseas. Ill get a picture of my engine later - harness isnt no beauty queen but I built it to be completely isolated from the car and I unplug 3 things (ecu plugs, and fuel pump wire) and whole engine comes out with the harness.

 

[BoomerUZ]

As for the manifolds. Retain as much stock as you can. They are well designed, and the aftermarket headers that arent 1500$+ split like bananas. You can look for different versions, and the 2UZ manifolds are the same. Early 2UZ manifolds are log style and hug the block to the rear, while LS400 and SC400 ones will have different length runners and cat flanges in different position. But from experience, ANYTHING stainless is not going to last at all. Elate makes SCH40 ones, which if youre going aftermarket would be good. But otherwise the stock ones can take some serious abuse and heat cycle well.

 

[YukonCruisers]

Thanks guys, lots of good info here re the headers, for me though, that ship has sailed (assuming the gasket blanks that Sraps suggested work). I am in the mode of 'git her on the road' right now as the project has been sitting for over two years largely untouched.

@BoomerUZ, Kelvin has set up a number of the Links previously and has provided a basic tune, so I have enough to get her going relatively well. Getting it dialed in will be an incremental learning process for me. The dyno is more of a would be nice thing, we don't have much in terms of services up here in the Yukon, but we do for some reason have a dyno - I've not met the guys there yet. At the end of the day though, just switching to the Link and the basic bits I did, should yield an additional 30hp over stock - if I push for much more, I am going to just end up breaking sh*t in the driveline - already have a doubler in there so I will not lack torque to the tires.

*edit, and I did keep the stock headers; and Kelvin build a custom loom

 

[BoomerUZ]

Thanks guys, lots of good info here re the headers, for me though, that ship has sailed (assuming the gasket blanks that Sraps suggested work). I am in the mode of 'git her on the road' right now as the project has been sitting for over two years largely untouched.

@BoomerUZ, Kelvin has set up a number of the Links previously and has provided a basic tune, so I have enough to get her going relatively well. Getting it dialed in will be an incremental learning process for me. The dyno is more of a would be nice thing, we don't have much in terms of services up here in the Yukon, but we do for some reason have a dyno - I've not met the guys there yet. At the end of the day though, just switching to the Link and the basic bits I did, should yield an additional 30hp over stock - if I push for much more, I am going to just end up breaking sh*t in the driveline - already have a doubler in there so I will not lack torque to the tires.

*edit, and I did keep the stock headers; and Kelvin build a custom loom

You will get more than 30HP for sure. on the dyno stock through the auto they make 211-224whp depending on DA, temp, alt, etc. With tune you will be closer to 270-280 depending how much timing you have on the table. I run mine around 28ish for NA. so you should see more of a ~60whp gain

 

[BoomerUZ]

engine bay picture i promised of my crusty old daily - not terrible for a 300k mile sh!tbox that lives in the middle of nowhere on a dirt road lol also dont mind my cut out shock towers. Its because the car is slammed on its nuts and the upper control arms bang the towers so you cut holes lol

 

[YukonCruisers]

crusty old daily

considerably cleaner than mine...

 

[BoomerUZ]

considerably cleaner than mine...

View attachment 3673458

that airbox is awesome lol but you have cast round fuel rails, which means your engine is a 95+, and since your PS reservoir is on the pump and the brackets for the engine cover, its an LS400 engine. That one does not like the timing belt to go bang. But they have standard valves and not the sodium filled ones the 89-94 have, but slightly larger cam profile.

That vacuum line that goes to the nose of the manifold - that one ziptied to it is for the idle up valve which vacuum assists your PS but mainly at idle, and full lock. Its completely useless. I use an M14x1.5 oil drain plug from a B5.5 VW and remove that valve completely. Hit the plastic off with a hammer, and makes getting a wrench on the base easier. Definitely use some sealant. Otherwise they leak like an SOB and will deteriorate the connector on the back of the alt, which will fry alternators like mad. Then getting a connector is a PITA. Should be round plug because 89-92 was oval but sometimes things get wonky.

I am not seeing your fuel pressure regulator. You are running one I hope?

 

[YukonCruisers]

Keen eye @BoomerUZ , bought the engine from a relatively well-known JDM importer, was told Celsior (LS400), 96 and 75K KM. When I got it I did the timing and water pump before install. Good advice on the plug, that plug was temporary. Yes re the fuel pressure regulator, but I still have to get it installed - likley just inline prior to the fuel line or will weld a bung in - it's on the list of many small things todo on this truck before it hits the road.

 

[BoomerUZ]

Keen eye @BoomerUZ , bought the engine from a relatively well-known JDM importer, was told Celsior (LS400), 96 and 75K KM. When I got it I did the timing and water pump before install. Good advice on the plug, that plug was temporary. Yes re the fuel pressure regulator, but I still have to get it installed - likley just inline prior to the fuel line or will weld a bung in - it's on the list of many small things todo on this truck before it hits the road.

The capped line on your throttle body is the vac ref for the regulator so I was concerned. You can use any aftermarket one, I use ebay ones just fine and set the pressure to 43lbs and then adjust everything else by the tune.

You already have the AN fittings on the lines from the looks of it, so just need to plumb it in there fine. one like this is what I usually use: Black-Red Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit Oil 0-100psi Gauge -6AN New | eBay - https://tinyurl.com/FPRebayredblack

Man some nice coil packs would get rid of so much of the engine clutter problems the UZ has. 2 ignitors, 2 coils, 2 distributor caps - its just so cumbersome.

 

[YukonCruisers]

Well, the boat's done, the Alaskan camper is mostly done and ready for hunting season so I finally got a bit of time on the pig between bouts of residing the house. I had bee relying on the stock in-rail fuel pressure regulator, but on @BoomerUZ advice put in a fuel pressure regulator, turns out it was siting at 60psi. dialed it back to a non-vacuum 42 and she's idling a fair bit better, but also my back pressure problem in the fuel tank went away - no idea on the physics behind that, but fixed. Also got the fan hooked up and the exhaust finally done (thanks @scrapdaddy for the remflex suggestion, great product).
Now fiddling with getting the alternator to trigger, putting out 1.5v right now and also figuring out why I have no pressure on the brakes, then I need to link up the ecu to the dash... little things

 

[scrapdaddy]

Good job!

 

[BoomerUZ]

Well, the boat's done, the Alaskan camper is mostly done and ready for hunting season so I finally got a bit of time on the pig between bouts of residing the house. I had bee relying on the stock in-rail fuel pressure regulator, but on @BoomerUZ advice put in a fuel pressure regulator, turns out it was siting at 60psi. dialed it back to a non-vacuum 42 and she's idling a fair bit better, but also my back pressure problem in the fuel tank went away - no idea on the physics behind that, but fixed. Also got the fan hooked up and the exhaust finally done (thanks @scrapdaddy for the remflex suggestion, great product).
Now fiddling with getting the alternator to trigger, putting out 1.5v right now and also figuring out why I have no pressure on the brakes, then I need to link up the ecu to the dash... little things

im glad I could be useful! lol

 

[PabloCruise]

Well, the boat's done, the Alaskan camper is mostly done and ready for hunting season so I finally got a bit of time on the pig between bouts of residing the house. I had bee relying on the stock in-rail fuel pressure regulator, but on @BoomerUZ advice put in a fuel pressure regulator, turns out it was siting at 60psi. dialed it back to a non-vacuum 42 and she's idling a fair bit better, but also my back pressure problem in the fuel tank went away - no idea on the physics behind that, but fixed. Also got the fan hooked up and the exhaust finally done (thanks @scrapdaddy for the remflex suggestion, great product).
Now fiddling with getting the alternator to trigger, putting out 1.5v right now and also figuring out why I have no pressure on the brakes, then I need to link up the ecu to the dash... little things

It sounds like you are figuring some things out!!!

 

[bobm]

Want 1 o dem Alaskan campers for me 79 Supercab

 

[YukonCruisers]

The Alaskan is great, I love that it lowers and has that lower center of gravity, great on the road and the trails - pretty heavy for its size though, artifact of being hand build from wood, also, if buying, inspect carfully first for water intrusion, things has like 10,000 screws in it

 

[RUSH55]

@YukonCruisers , did you ever ream the steering arms and install the 1 ton GM TRE’s?

 

[YukonCruisers]

@YukonCruisers , did you ever ream the steering arms and install the 1 ton GM TRE’s?

Yup, had to buy a rather expensive reamer for 5 min of work, but yes. Clearances are tight around the tie rods, but it all worked.

 

[RUSH55]

Did you end up installing them from the bottom or top?

 

[YukonCruisers]

Did you end up installing them from the bottom or top?

top

 

[YukonCruisers]

Got distracted by more projects, picked up a 1967 A100, used to be my favorite hot wheels and couldnt resist - it will need an engine swap.

BUT, I felt guilty and tinkered with the pig a bit too, bunch of small things, but a possible problem. I was 2x checking all fluids and found the PS was low, really low, so I went through and topped it up, did the side to side thing to fill the lines, but now at idle if I go to turn, it kills the idle. Bit of gas and no problem, in fact, it turns those meats with a pinky finger. Thinking I could have killed the pump and by engaging it its tensioning up the belt enough to stall. Could also be a sensor that should be idling up the engine automatically, more investigation needed. Would welcome other ideas - current plan is to let the fluid sit and hope it fixes itself... yeah right.

Next big ish thing is to is to ensure the temperature is in range and the fan comes on - think I will have to hook up a computer to the Link ECU to do this, then signal lights, a steering stabilizer and some finishing up body work (next year when its warm out again for that).

Be a blast to run it up the mountain out back this year before the snow gets too deep...we'll see.

(pics from before we got a foot of snow)