My 76 1UZ build (1 Viewer)

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I'm working through the details of a 1uzfe retrofit so I understand your pain. There are alot of details to work through.

1. It looks like your oil pan sump is a mid sump but you still need to check the clearance with full articulation of the front axle. I had a front sump setup on my 1UZ it requiring retrofitting with a mid sump upper/lower oil pan.
2. Lextreme in the USA is a great resource rewiring and immobilizer bypass. The guy from NZ also seems to be a master at the UZs
3. Plan on a hydraulic throwout bearing for the clutch. The exhaust manifolds seems to make it impossible to use a traditional clutch fork system.
4. Nice job eliminating the hydraulic fan and re-routing the serpentine belt. I'm going the route of retrofitting with an idler pulley and keeping the belt length the same as the stock engine.

Keep up the good work!!!!

@xtremeVA Some good advice in there - thanks!
My sump is a full rear from an SC400, that, plus the 4" of lift I am targeting I should be ok. Plus, my j70 series springs are offset forward an inch and I have the ruff stuff lower u-bolt plates that give 3 mounting options - I had planned on using the front one to recenter the axles to the frame, but in theory could push forward 2 inches if needed.
Yeah, I sent the wiring harness to Kelvin last month - took him 2 seconds to diagnose it needed an immo, he will fit and send back. Also been all over lextreme along the way - it was usually kelvin who ansered my questions there.... I am still pissed that after carefully seeking and engine without one i ended up with one. Ah well, along the way of troubleshooting I replaced damn near every sensor and learned a ton about the engine.
The Hydraulic throwout is really good advice, wish I had it before I got the transmission mounted, but better now than later. I have never had a transmission just slide in like in the videos, this one took several hours over multiple days (and I have a transmission jack). I will research, but let me know if you have a part and source for one that will bolt up.
Pulling the h fan was super easy, a few bolts, a piece of string and a tape measure and I got a new belt one from rockauto clean and simple

@tucker74 @J Mack thanks for the advice on the handle, mine is pooched , no way to save or use it, it cracked half way through where the pin goes through and is some kind of plastic I cant repair... will reach out to @DoubleNickels or steal one from the other pig when we move up north (hate to start stealing parts from a runner though).
 
Found a couple of options:
Validating now if they will fit...
 
Found a couple of options:
I used one of these on mine, I had to machine a few parts but it has worked well.
 
I bought a universal bearing and had to machine the trans snout down a few 0.001” to get it to fit, other than that I remember it being straight forward. I know there is some photos in my build thread somewhere.

 
Regarding the cooling fan idler bracket/pulley, I don't think you really need one since you already figured out to completely eliminate the pulley. For reference, aftermarket fan idler pulley brackets are available. I even ran across an Aisin branded one...but it is a bit more expensive. I put a link below as an example of each piece for reference.

1uzfe cooling fan bracket - ebay
2uzfe fan pulley
 
Regarding the cooling fan idler bracket/pulley, I don't think you really need one since you already figured out to completely eliminate the pulley. For reference, aftermarket fan idler pulley brackets are available. I even ran across an Aisin branded one...but it is a bit more expensive. I put a link below as an example of each piece for reference.

1uzfe cooling fan bracket - ebay
2uzfe fan pulley


Thanks, but I was trying to understand the hydraulic throwout bearing challenge you pointed out. Above are a few options. I've never installed one, but it looks like you replace one of the transmission bolts with a stud that the tob slides on and then shim to correct depth if my morning of not focusing on my work is correct.

J Mac seems to have used a thicker one that required some trimming to fit if am understanding correctly. I'd rather add shims since I don't have a lathe.

I am wondering more about which one would have the correct placement of the stud to my trans - or does one tap a new hole?
 
I am wondering more about which one would have the correct placement of the stud to my trans - or does one tap a new hole?
Drill and tap a hole if one of your existing holes don't line up.
My NV4500 snout from memory was 1.400" and I needed to machine it to 1.370″ diameter, I'm guessing yours is not that big.
 
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Verifying something. The instructions for the tob seem contradictory (and I haven't even had any beer yet). Line 4 says the distance to the tob and fingers should be the same. Line 6 says if done right they should be .060 apart.. I am thinking a slight gap maybe gets a slightly lower pedal, but maybe extends the life of the tob..? Right now I have 0.050 - good to go?

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