Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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Either one will have to be chopped so that's a moot point but by the looks of it the 24V might be able to be capped to have a smoother flow for the exhaust. In all the 12V will be easier (no need to port match and the cap is simpler) and the 24V will be a little more work.

I've not had any issues with my 12V chop but if you want to do 24V go for it.

What kind of HE351? Is it variable vane?
 
Either one will have to be chopped so that's a moot point but by the looks of it the 24V might be able to be capped to have a smoother flow for the exhaust. In all the 12V will be easier (no need to port match and the cap is simpler) and the 24V will be a little more work.

I've not had any issues with my 12V chop but if you want to do 24V go for it.

What kind of HE351? Is it variable vane?

Same things I was thinking. 24v is more work, but might be a neat end-result.

This is what I purchased, and what should be an HE351w. It was cheap enough to take a risk.

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I'm leaning towards the 24v just because it looks neat, but I've heard rumors of them cracking
Is it a new Chinese casting?

That would be my only concern on an EBay Cummins part being prone to cracking and I can’t imagine welding on it making that better.



Other than that I agree it would be neat to use the 24 valve manifold.
 
If that is a 9cm tubine housing I'm afraid that is going to be too small of an exhaust housing. You'd have to do some wastegate porting but that might not be enough to flow as the large. Maybe there is some aftermarket bigger housing for it. You'd really want something in the 14-18cm range. I think I've currently got my large turbo housing set to 16cm or 17cm right now and with the little turbo it builds total boost fast.
 
Is it a new Chinese casting?

That would be my only concern on an EBay Cummins part being prone to cracking and I can’t imagine welding on it making that better.

Other than that I agree it would be neat to use the 24 valve manifold.

:cheers: Agreed on both counts, will seek out an OE cummins manifold.

If that is a 9cm tubine housing I'm afraid that is going to be too small of an exhaust housing. You'd have to do some wastegate porting but that might not be enough to flow as the large. Maybe there is some aftermarket bigger housing for it. You'd really want something in the 14-18cm range. I think I've currently got my large turbo housing set to 16cm or 17cm right now and with the little turbo it builds total boost fast.

Looks to me like it is as well, and agree on it being too small. Not a huge deal if I have to buy a new, properly sized, turbine housing given how cheap this one was.
 
Have you thought about just making your own out of steel?




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Have you thought about just making your own out of steel?

Depends on how much work you want to put into it but would be the best on flexibility on turbo positioning. I didn't have the welding set up to build my own so I stuck with plain-Jane. Even with that I had a buddy weld on the caps with the right rod for cast.
 
Depends on how much work you want to put into it but would be the best on flexibility on turbo positioning.

Yeah I bought the Steed Speed for mine and was tied to their turbo location and had a few issues that needed spacers to overcome, if I had to do it over I would have bought the flanges and made my own to put the turbo in the ideal location for my application.
 
I did briefly consider building a manifold from scratch. I do have a CNC plasma cutter now, but it just seemed like too much work with little to gain. Since I've removed my batteries from the engine bay, space is much less of a concern than it once was.
 
He351cw porting reference. Also seems like the 67mm turbine upgrade is welcome. No you can't increase the cross sectional area of the turbine by any appreciable amount, but maybe it's possible to increase flow enough to be able to use this 9cm in a twin setup.


67mm turbine upgrade for the HE351. This is apparently the turbine out of a HX40:
Amazon product ASIN B07GSFY4GY
 
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With all this fun about turbos, I forgot to update the rust repair/makeover project.

Bought a new-to-me DS front door for $200, knowing that it had some rust, and a corner that looked a little bubbly. Well, I don't want to have to buy another new door in a few years, so I figured it'd be a good time to learn how to repair this door for good.

From the outside, after wire-wheeling. Not awful, right?

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First up was to remove the skin. The skin is folded over the inner structure and then spot-welded in a few places. Rotabroach the spot welds, then bend the skin off of the inner structure.

Example spot weld in this area. Of note, the spot weld will sometimes fuse not only the folded over lip to the inner structure, but also the outer side of the skin to the inner structure. Cut all the way through the lip, and structure, then fold the skin up.
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After that, there's two brazed seams, and this little tab on the inside (top, front), that holds the door together:

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Of course, when wire-wheeling to find the brazed seams, I uncovered more rot. Has anyone ever seen the damn window frame rot out? :mad:

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Melt that bronze out of there (really need an oxy or tig torch for this, hindsight is 20/20) and you have yourself a separated door:

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Remember that $200 door that didn't look too bad, that was from a carolina truck? Yikes.

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From there, it's cut and patch:

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Not quite pro, but it'll do.

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This one was tricky to rebuild. Right angle stamped inset with a drain hole in the middle.

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Just thoughts: Not telling you not to do it, just some things to consider.

With such a tight housing on the large my estimate is that it will try to do most of the work and your small might not be able to contribute as much as it could, even with the wastegate on the small fixed shut (which would contribute to more restriction and higher egts as rpms build). Egts and high boost will probably be your fight. Head studs are a requirement and head o rings would definitely help keep all that excited boom contained. Hopefully a port job like the link you posted really helps out.

I'm certainly curious what it would actually be like but for me I'd go into it as an experiment and be willing to swap it out if it just cannot be dialed in. I'm thinking a tight wastegate on the small and a pretty loose one on the large. This will hopefully get total boost reasonable but I'm not sure what egts would look like, my gut says they'd be in the higher range. Timing might be tricky too but small adjustments would be better than large ones. I suspect it won't really start to spool much quicker than your current single but the rate and peak of spool could be pretty quick/near instant. It might be a little like turning on a fire hose to water the plants.
 
Again, not pro, but it'll do.

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Seriously? More?

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No finished pic of the window frame. Apparently I forgot to take one. You'll see it next time.
 
Next was moving onto the tailgate. Yep, another train wreck.

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Yeesh. Needed a beer, will finish this another day.

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Meanwhile, stripping is going well. Slowly, but well.

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wow. you are making fast progress. You really should consider making a bodywork thread in the 60 section after you're done. I'm sure many would benefit
 
Just thoughts: Not telling you not to do it, just some things to consider.

With such a tight housing on the large my estimate is that it will try to do most of the work and your small might not be able to contribute as much as it could, even with the wastegate on the small fixed shut (which would contribute to more restriction and higher egts as rpms build). Egts and high boost will probably be your fight. Head studs are a requirement and head o rings would definitely help keep all that excited boom contained. Hopefully a port job like the link you posted really helps out.

I'm certainly curious what it would actually be like but for me I'd go into it as an experiment and be willing to swap it out if it just cannot be dialed in. I'm thinking a tight wastegate on the small and a pretty loose one on the large. This will hopefully get total boost reasonable but I'm not sure what egts would look like, my gut says they'd be in the higher range. Timing might be tricky too but small adjustments would be better than large ones. I suspect it won't really start to spool much quicker than your current single but the rate and peak of spool could be pretty quick/near instant. It might be a little like turning on a fire hose to water the plants.

I spent a few hours researching last night, and came to similar conclusions that you have here, so thanks for helping confirm.

From reading, it seems that enlarging the wastegate on the HE351, and then enlarging the turbine wheel, then porting/polishing the turbine housing slot+involute (in that order) help to reduce drive pressure and EGTs. I'm thinking that moving to the 67mm turbine housing ($500 total turbo cost if I did that) then porting the wastegate is going to give the best chance for success, as that basically gives me a HX40w with a small turbine housing.

In short, I'm concerned that the turbine housing is going to be too small as well. This is definitely going to be an experiment, and will be able to sell the HE351 if I need to move to a different atmospheric turbo. Studs, absolutely. O-rings if we need them as well.

The current issue I'm trying to solve is that above 3000rpm, power tapers off. She spools fast enough, with over 20# before 2000rpm running hot, but the top-end is lacking.

EDIT: ARP install guide:
 
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wow. you are making fast progress. You really should consider making a bodywork thread in the 60 section after you're done. I'm sure many would benefit

Thanks man, it feels slow.
 
I look forward to the turbo experiment. It'll be interesting to see how they work out together. So I guess in your fitment scheme I'd echo your thoughts on building in enough room for the large to get swapped out just in case.

Nice work on the body. Lots of dedication to strip off all the liner but you are showing why it needs to be done.

You going to put sliders on this round?
 

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