Metric Fastener Source(s) (1 Viewer)

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RUSH55

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I’ve found that a bunch of the Cruiser hardware has an in-between 1.25 thread pitch that most hardware stores don’t carry in bulk. Add to that the fact that several of the applications are what is known as JIS “small wrench” (which I’d never heard of until this morning). This is what’s on the axle housings for the diffs and rear cover, knuckle studs, drive shaft flanges, etc...
I’m wanting all this stuff fresh and new (and yellow zinc). Found this awesome site that carries the JIS series nuts and bolts as well as the small OD flat washers and split lock-washers.


If you have a source you found, feel free to post.

*if you have an idea for a better thread name that would show up more easily in a search, throw it out
 
Bel-Metric is a good source as are a few others. Bolts and screws are a big decision to make and one I found changed throughout my build.

My thoughts, Yellow zinc looks great for about a year and it fades, corrodes, etc. Cadmium plating is better, not as pretty, more expensive and the look fades, but doesn't corrode as fast. Stainless steel looks great, expensive and lasts forever, but can seize on SS bolts and not very strong. What kind of screw/bolt head you wanting, hex, button head or cap screw, etc. Now, you can get flanged button heads, they work great when needed instead of a washer and look snazzy!

Toyota used all JIS screws/bolts, even the Philips head is a bit different. Example 6mm JIS hex head would be 12mm and reg. head a 13mm. You don't want to mix them, pain in the azz working on them and looks funky. You talk about a headache thinking about, fasteners can be the worst. I didn't reuse a single bolt on mine and changed directions a couple times building it, stupid! I often thought it would of been proper to sit down and think out bolts.

After your bulk purchases I would look at McMaster- Carr for special stuff, super strong bolts, high corrosion coatings, etc. Not cheap, but fast shipping and they have it all.

Good luck my man!

 
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Love the look of the Cad yellow which is what they try to recreate with the zinc + yellow/gold chromate. I don’t think anyone really uses Cadmium like they used to. Be nice if they did, but I guess we just have to live with what’s available. The route of just purchasing the fasteners vs. getting them re-plated is way cheaper anyways, it’s just finding the right stuff that’s been the PITA. Made two previous buys through eBay that won’t work 🤦🏻‍♂️
 
I was lucky to have a company in the next town over that would cad. plate my stuff, you're right not cheap.

Tip... I bought a bunch of plastic containers, like tackle boxes and made 4mm, 5mm, 6mm etc. Each one had all the lengths, washers and bolts in one spot.
 
You know Bob, I worked at the brewery and all we used were stainless everything, bolts, nuts, everything was made from stainless. Maybe it was the environment there with the beer, etc., but we always had bolts seizing up even with the anti-seize. I love stainless steel and hate cutting, drilling and bolting it. :) :beer: 🤷‍♂️;):cheers:
 
Ya I've been there! Butt in automotive applications I've always swapped steel for stainless 🤔😉😏 especially exhaust and it just makes me Smile 😃😊 when I go unbolt something instead of breaking out the 🔥 torch or stripping the head or Snapping the bolt 🤔😉😏😊
 
SOR has bulk yellow plated. Or the did. I have purchased from them
 
Ron is correct if you use stainless bolts in stainless threads they will have a tendency to seize but it’s unlikely you would bolt anything directly to stainless on your Toyota as most everything is steel or cast steel and you have less chance of having an issue the way you would use them here. If you use a stainless bolt that requires a nut then just use a grade 8 steel nut and you’ll be fine, the difference in hardness will resist seizing.

Every non-critical bolt on my Pig is stainless, most have a black oxide coating and I’ve for one reason or another taken my pig apart several times and it’s nice not dealing with rusty bolts and screws.

McMaster Carr is your friend with quality hardware.
 
Ron is correct if you use stainless bolts in stainless threads they will have a tendency to seize but it’s unlikely you would bolt anything directly to stainless on your Toyota as most everything is steel or cast steel and you have less chance of having an issue the way you would use them here. If you use a stainless bolt that requires a nut then just use a grade 8 steel nut and you’ll be fine, the difference in hardness will resist seizing.

Every non-critical bolt on my Pig is stainless, most have a black oxide coating and I’ve for one reason or another taken my pig apart several times and it’s nice not dealing with rusty bolts and screws.

McMaster Carr is your friend with quality hardware.
Never had a problem with Stainless to stainless 🤔😉. Helicoils are stainless steel installed hundreds of 1,000s of them with minimal issues 😳 all used in aluminum!! Same thing with Stainless Rivnuts minimal to none. Stainless in aluminum is a different story Galling is a major concern here! Anything I replace I go with stainless especially exhaust components 🤔😉. Trying changing an O2 sensor and not **** something up 😉
 

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