Looking good. I wouldn't start it without coolant. You've waited this long. At little longer won't hurt. But I would spin the oil pump with a drill to see some oil flow out of that freshly cleaned up rocker assembly and down onto that pretty rebuilt head.
Builds Marion Rising: 1974 FJ40 FST (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MadMace
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- #242
LOL, exactly.
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- #243
We’ve postponed start-up until we get the cooling system all set up and topped off. Just makes more sense. Easy enough to drain if I have to.
My concern about spinning the oil pump is I’d have to remove the distributor and then get it reseated.
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When did the dizzy become part of this equation?
If you have pulled the dizzy, proceed with extreme caution. Read threads about installing dizzies, and ASK QUESTIONS. The calculus of risk [legal term] is high based on the potential magnitude of harm [spun crank bearings]
If you have pulled the dizzy, proceed with extreme caution. Read threads about installing dizzies, and ASK QUESTIONS. The calculus of risk [legal term] is high based on the potential magnitude of harm [spun crank bearings]
I understand the concern about replacing the dissy and it “is” extremely important to get it right. But as important as it is, it’s not complicated. It either goes in all the way or it doesn’t. And you don’t move on until it’s in all the way. It’s those that don’t understand that point who screw up. With all the work you’ve been taking on so far, I really don’t see a dizzy install that big of a deal for you. You’re obviously someone who doesn’t throw stuff together without paying attention.
It’s just one’s opinion, I guess but for me, I’d consider the engine’s been down awhile with the oil being well drained down to the sump. Also the oil passages in the rocker assembly and head are empty. I just think starting it as is, it will take just a little longer for oil to get flowing up top. Maybe just a short time and maybe it’s not a big deal, but it would bother me. I guess you could just pour some oil over the rocker assembly which is common.
It’s just one’s opinion, I guess but for me, I’d consider the engine’s been down awhile with the oil being well drained down to the sump. Also the oil passages in the rocker assembly and head are empty. I just think starting it as is, it will take just a little longer for oil to get flowing up top. Maybe just a short time and maybe it’s not a big deal, but it would bother me. I guess you could just pour some oil over the rocker assembly which is common.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
For my piece of mind, after major engine work, especially working on the valve train, I like to rotate the crank 2 revolutions by hand, so each of the cyldrs go thru the 4 strokes without interferernce or resrictions. During assembly I make sure any anything that rotates is well lubricated. Pouring some oil over the rocker arms and shaft is not a bad idea. Instead of pulling the dizzy and priming the engine by the oil pump, you can pull the plugs and disable the ignition, and crank the engine over with the starter until you have oil pressure or witness oil at the rocker arm assembly.
- Thread starter
- #247
Thank you. What Steamer said really got me thinking about how to get some oil up and moving. I can definitely get it going down by pouring oil over the rocker arms and the push rods but I think turning it over with the electric starter (with the ignition disabled) is a great idea. If the key is in the “on” position with the coil and plug wires detached, would the oil gauge show pressure while I was turning it over with the electric starter (of course, assuming the distributor is engaged in the oil pump appropriately).
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I'd just pull the big wire off the coil. You just don't want a spark to ignite anything. With the plugs removed the engine will spin quickly and build oil pressure quickly too. Im pretty sure The oil gauge requires 12 volts to operate.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
The oil pressure gauge should be activated when the ign. Is in the run position.
Of course, but what about in the start position? I'd guess no but I really don't know. If I had stock wiring I'd find out right now.
I guess it's "hit the schematics time" but I'm sure someone here knows for sure.
You could Pull the plugs, the big wire from the coil and the valve cover. You should see oil weaping from the rocker arms after some cranking.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Bad dad
You need to show him the hand packing with the palm well before using a packer ... then when he was done you can show him the latex gloves to wear next time lol
I have the same radiator overflow canister as you ... parts store special
I bent over the one tang to capture the front bolt ... much more stable using two mounting points
Nice build !
A lot of advice... smart guys helping you ... keep it up
You need to show him the hand packing with the palm well before using a packer ... then when he was done you can show him the latex gloves to wear next time lol
I have the same radiator overflow canister as you ... parts store special
I bent over the one tang to capture the front bolt ... much more stable using two mounting points
Nice build !
A lot of advice... smart guys helping you ... keep it up
- Thread starter
- #255
LOL!! So, I was watching videos on how to palm pack bearings as that was what I was planning on doing. The last video I watched ended with a demonstration of the Handy Packer...you saw pictures of which of the 2 won out.
Yes, I am thankful for each and every one of you.
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- #256
I love it! A few weeks ago my wife and I were looking through all the different pictures on this thread, starting at the beginning. We both could not believe how much our son has grown up in what seems like such a short amount of time. It certainly does fly by.
BTW, is that color Pueblo Brown?
I'm not 100% on the nomenclature of the color but it looks like a copper in person. I purchased it this color and the title reads "brown."
I am from SA by the way. I just retired from Active Duty Military Service and I am looking to go back to Texas late spring early summer 2020.
I did the exact same thing, one tab is bent forward to one of the bib bolts, and I welded up a little plate at an angle to catch another threaded hole under the bottle. Very stable.
As for bearing packing, the hand method works, and the white Lubriplate grease I use gives me silky smooth skin for weeks, but I do love my bearing packer, I have a Lisle brand one, fill it with grease and push down hard or better yet put in the vice or use a large quick clamp, bearing filled in seconds, I love it and I don't get a cramp in my hand. Although I do miss the bearing packing my dad I would spend together as a kid, he would whip them out and I would still be trying to get through half the bearing. Great to see your son enjoying this with you. My dad and I restored my 40 together in highschool some 20 years ago, lost him 7 years ago now, amazing how time flies. We did a lot of stuff together, miss him all the time.
Mad Mace, you would be surprised how quickly your new head will heat up without any coolant in it. Best to wait until you get it all plumbed back together. Don't forget the gaskets in the thermostat housing, the one on top is critical to proper operation of the thermostat.
- Thread starter
- #259
Thanks for sharing your story about your Dad @MoCoNative; he lives on in sharing your memories of him. Unfortunately we suddenly, unexpectedly lost my father-in-law this past October and had a near miss with my Dad the month before--I spent a week with him in the hospital. Yes, time does fly by, especially with kids. I find myself saying all the same thing my parents said that I found so cliche..."You guys are growing up so fast", etc.
I think I was having a brain cramp in even thinking about starting Marion up without the coolant...dumb thought that was quickly put to rest. Patience, as they say, is a virtue. I guess I'm not very virtuous!!
I think I was having a brain cramp in even thinking about starting Marion up without the coolant...dumb thought that was quickly put to rest. Patience, as they say, is a virtue. I guess I'm not very virtuous!!
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- Thread starter
- #260
Moved onto the cooling system tonight in preparation for start-up. I ran into something I did not expect and I need ya'lls help.
I opened up the radiator plug on the petcock to drain any residual coolant that might have been sitting in there. Surprisingly, nothing came out. So I thought the radiator was empty. I poured a gallon of clean water through the radiator fill cap and still, nothing came out. I stuck a small screwdriver up there and it was full of grease.
Important to note that the radiator is new, OEM Toyota--I installed it shortly before I pulled the head off to have it rebuilt. It came with the petcock and plug that I installed. I would guess that the petcock was not filled with grease when I received it so the question is where did it come from? I did do a lot of washing of the water jackets while the head was off but I cannot imagine that there was grease like that in the jackets. I did leave the lower radiator hose connected while I was doing this. Did junk from the water jackets get flushed into the bottom of the radiator? Do I need to pull the radiator and have it serviced at a radiator shop?
Clear water poured through the radiator fill came out cloudy at the bottom. Does this indicate anything to anybody in particular. I have included a couple of pictures below.
This was the grayish colored grease that came out of the petcock (picture makes it look black but it was gray). Sorry for the blurry picture.
This is the water after it runs through the radiator from the radiator fill to the petcock outlet.
I opened up the radiator plug on the petcock to drain any residual coolant that might have been sitting in there. Surprisingly, nothing came out. So I thought the radiator was empty. I poured a gallon of clean water through the radiator fill cap and still, nothing came out. I stuck a small screwdriver up there and it was full of grease.
Important to note that the radiator is new, OEM Toyota--I installed it shortly before I pulled the head off to have it rebuilt. It came with the petcock and plug that I installed. I would guess that the petcock was not filled with grease when I received it so the question is where did it come from? I did do a lot of washing of the water jackets while the head was off but I cannot imagine that there was grease like that in the jackets. I did leave the lower radiator hose connected while I was doing this. Did junk from the water jackets get flushed into the bottom of the radiator? Do I need to pull the radiator and have it serviced at a radiator shop?
Clear water poured through the radiator fill came out cloudy at the bottom. Does this indicate anything to anybody in particular. I have included a couple of pictures below.
This was the grayish colored grease that came out of the petcock (picture makes it look black but it was gray). Sorry for the blurry picture.
This is the water after it runs through the radiator from the radiator fill to the petcock outlet.
