- Thread starter
- #201
awesome. I'm going to look into finding some of this stuff
making your own soft top.. because lets be honest.. you've built everything else (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter antFJ
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That's what I got... Only white.
thenative1
SILVER Star
This seems to be called "Fender Welt/Welting", typically made of rubber or vinyl for automotive use. I've put a few links below. In some cases it seems like the "leg" might be a little long but some experimentation with that should sort it out. For the bead, not sure what the minimum would be to ensure it doesn't pop out of the channel. Ant, you think 3/8" minimum? Perhaps 5/16"?
Miami Corp has foam welt. Tough to tell if it would work as they don't provide a good picture.
++Fender Welt++
http://www.faccafasteners.com/Products/00040.htm
http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/193-ws-sold-by-the-foot/
++Foam Welt++
http://www.miamicorp.com/default.as...SearchSource=ProductSearch&txtSearchText=welt
Miami Corp has foam welt. Tough to tell if it would work as they don't provide a good picture.
++Fender Welt++
http://www.faccafasteners.com/Products/00040.htm
http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/193-ws-sold-by-the-foot/
++Foam Welt++
http://www.miamicorp.com/default.as...SearchSource=ProductSearch&txtSearchText=welt
Have you checked with marine suppliers , they use this stuff for bimini tops - maybe Sailrite ?
Sarge
Sarge
thenative1
SILVER Star
Thanks to Ant's inspiration and remarkable work on this, I've embarked on replacing the top to the 1979 BJ44 I recently got. First step was carefully (exacto knife) pulling apart the original top, which will serve as a pattern and huge time saver. In another thread I'm going to go through what an astounding survivor this truck is. I have every reason to believe that the 40,000 km (26,000 miles) are original. Astounding. More as I follow in Ant's proud footsteps. Attached pictures are the deconstructed original top and mock up of the new top (I'm going to black for a variety of reasons). May make a few adjustments/improvements. Don't have to make the call yet. As/if the pattern for a 44 might be helpful to anyone, I'm happy to share/distribute it. Thanks again Ant!
I believe sailrite carries a plastic (white), somewhat flexible version of the C channel as well as an aluminum version similar to what they use for awnings on RVs. I don't think they carry the rubber welt though.
Man I love this thread. And the ideas y'all come up with. Good stuff.
Thanks for the thread. I'm looking to make a Toyota 4x4 into a convertable and I know I will have to make my own top for it. Thought I could find something from Sailrite being as I made my sail for my boat from one of there kits. They have a lot of good how to videos that will give some good ideas for applying to this venture, (how to make patterns, put in zippers, plastic windows) and also a good supply of materials. I suggest checking them out.
What I'm going to need to find out is how you fabricate the bows because I won't have any pattern to go by. Any ideas???
What I'm going to need to find out is how you fabricate the bows because I won't have any pattern to go by. Any ideas???
Check out Jeeps and other makes - figure out the ratio of the arms on the frame to allow it to fold up correctly . Will take some work , but I'm sure it could be done .
Sarge
Sarge
thenative1
SILVER Star
Update from my project. Sorted the top (I'm splitting the build into "top", "sides", and "back" in my head) and love the black Sunbrella Seamark fabric recommended by Sailrite (http://www.sailrite.com/SeaMark-Black-60#.U06QZo1wrzg). Canvas outside, treated inside, no scent, 100% waterproof and very pliable and easy to work with. Certainly a little more expensive than remnant canvas or similar but I'm trying to build this top for the long haul.
Beyond the fabric, I have had some issues using 3/8" cord/rope for the channels. Good news is that it's cheap and easy to work with. Bad news is that no matter how tightly you sew it into the fabric channel attached to the top, it inevitably has some movement once you start working the top into the metal channel on the truck. So as/when it starts to bunch up, it makes installing the top trickier. I haven't decided, but I may try to source some of the rubber fender welting discussed in posts #200-#203 or go with some of the 2/8" coated cabling from Sailrite (http://www.sailrite.com/Wire-Rope-1-8-Wire-Coated-to-5-32#.U06RMY1wrzg) and replace rope channels.
Three more thoughts as I continue the build:
1) In looking at the top, it seems to be begging for glass panels that run side to side OR front to back (I'm using 30 gauge Strataglass - http://www.sailrite.com/Strataglass-30-Gauge-Vinyl-54-x-110#.U06RsI1wrzg) to create the equivalent of a moonroof/sunroof. I imagine the reason I don't see this more is that even with careful installation, in a heavy rain you might get seepage at the edges. I'm going to investigate the possibility of using some kind of epoxy at the edges 'cause I think that having clear panels would be awesome.
2) In installing the top, it seems natural that with some planning, you could create a bimini top AND the full top. Here's what I mean: you could create a top panel that could live on its own but then when/as necessary, the sides could be installed and the back as well. The caution would be that with some kind of temporary installation method (velcro, straps, etc.) to facilitate the modularity of the top, it might be noisier/less stable at higher speeds. But since I don't ever imagine driving this BJ44 down the Long Island Expressway at 70 mph, I'm not sure it's a real concern.
3) When I get to installing the side panel glass/windows, I think I'm going to try and line up the height with the door windows. While two shorter windows are obviously more of a classic look, I think that one larger window aligned with the two door windows will look great aesthetically and provide improved visibility for driver and passengers alike.
That's it for now. Between work and family stuff for the next few weekends, I won't back at this project but will report when I pick it back up.
As always, thanks to Ant and everyone else on this thread for the inspiration.
Best,
Evan
Beyond the fabric, I have had some issues using 3/8" cord/rope for the channels. Good news is that it's cheap and easy to work with. Bad news is that no matter how tightly you sew it into the fabric channel attached to the top, it inevitably has some movement once you start working the top into the metal channel on the truck. So as/when it starts to bunch up, it makes installing the top trickier. I haven't decided, but I may try to source some of the rubber fender welting discussed in posts #200-#203 or go with some of the 2/8" coated cabling from Sailrite (http://www.sailrite.com/Wire-Rope-1-8-Wire-Coated-to-5-32#.U06RMY1wrzg) and replace rope channels.
Three more thoughts as I continue the build:
1) In looking at the top, it seems to be begging for glass panels that run side to side OR front to back (I'm using 30 gauge Strataglass - http://www.sailrite.com/Strataglass-30-Gauge-Vinyl-54-x-110#.U06RsI1wrzg) to create the equivalent of a moonroof/sunroof. I imagine the reason I don't see this more is that even with careful installation, in a heavy rain you might get seepage at the edges. I'm going to investigate the possibility of using some kind of epoxy at the edges 'cause I think that having clear panels would be awesome.
2) In installing the top, it seems natural that with some planning, you could create a bimini top AND the full top. Here's what I mean: you could create a top panel that could live on its own but then when/as necessary, the sides could be installed and the back as well. The caution would be that with some kind of temporary installation method (velcro, straps, etc.) to facilitate the modularity of the top, it might be noisier/less stable at higher speeds. But since I don't ever imagine driving this BJ44 down the Long Island Expressway at 70 mph, I'm not sure it's a real concern.
3) When I get to installing the side panel glass/windows, I think I'm going to try and line up the height with the door windows. While two shorter windows are obviously more of a classic look, I think that one larger window aligned with the two door windows will look great aesthetically and provide improved visibility for driver and passengers alike.
That's it for now. Between work and family stuff for the next few weekends, I won't back at this project but will report when I pick it back up.
As always, thanks to Ant and everyone else on this thread for the inspiration.
Best,
Evan
- Thread starter
- #212
Sounds like you've got the right idea on things. For sewing the rope in the fabric you will need a foot for your machine that lets the needle get very close to the rope.
I would use an adhesive (either basting tape or spray adhesive) to keep the rope in place while sewing. My rope is unable to "bunch" inside the fabric. I also buy rope that does not bunch up . If you'd ever like to talk details PM me your number
Also I think the moon roof idea will work just fine. I use the Coleman sealant and it works really well. http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/COLEMAN-SEAM-SEALER/13848651
There are many other choices out there though
I would use an adhesive (either basting tape or spray adhesive) to keep the rope in place while sewing. My rope is unable to "bunch" inside the fabric. I also buy rope that does not bunch up . If you'd ever like to talk details PM me your number
Also I think the moon roof idea will work just fine. I use the Coleman sealant and it works really well. http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/COLEMAN-SEAM-SEALER/13848651
There are many other choices out there though
Last edited:
thenative1
SILVER Star
Update: sadly, between family stuff and work I have had little time to spend on the top. But got to spend an hour today and used welting from Sailrite and my only regret is that I didn't find it sooner. It would have saved me a ton of time. It is the Keder Awning Rope 5/16" (black of white). Easy to work with, very sturdy, and fits my BJ44 channels perfectly. I highly recommend it for this kind of project.
Should be able to make good progress Mem. Day weekend and will report and take pictures then.
Best,
Evan
Should be able to make good progress Mem. Day weekend and will report and take pictures then.
Best,
Evan
- Thread starter
- #214
that was the stuff i saw at my local fabric shop! never knew what it was called. I'm curious how it works for you. I was hesitant to see how it would work. Can't wait to see your progress!
I'm loving this thread. I'm dying to make a new top for my bj46 and if Native1 has some dimensions I'd love to see them. I'm planning on using dimensions similar to the hard top sides for my windows. One reason is to keep the window as close as possible to the b- pillar for visibility. I find the original top creates a large blind spot there. The other reason is for the kids in the rear seat to have more visibility.
My truck also has 40,000 miles on it.
My truck also has 40,000 miles on it.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
thenative1
SILVER Star
Hey Peteinjp - I'll try to pull together some measurements this weekend when, hopefully, I'm able to make more progress. My new top was a necessity as the original top was shot (read: not waterproof) and the previous seller, while a good guy, had a replacement top made by people who clearly had no idea what they were doing (read: not waterproof again). Beyond the top, I'm amazed the unmolested stock condition of the BJ44. I couldn't be more psyched to get the top sorted and installed. I've attached a bad photo of a test fit of the front and door-top channel material I found on www.sailrite.com.
I'll also pull together a materials list as the right materials - sewing machine, fabric, binding, thread, etc. - has had a huge impact on time and efficiency in this project. Good luck with yours!
I'll also pull together a materials list as the right materials - sewing machine, fabric, binding, thread, etc. - has had a huge impact on time and efficiency in this project. Good luck with yours!
thenative1
SILVER Star
A quick update with no new pictures (boo!) after making some progress over the Memorial Day weekend.
The welting from Sailrite (www.sailrite.com) is awesome. My only regret is that I didn't find it sooner. It appears to be marine grade, is easy to work with, and slides into the channels on the BJ44 like butter. Part numbers on the Sailrite Web site are #103299 - black or #102549 - white. I am using black.
Relatedly, I created the two side panels and the windows using a few of the videos from the Sailrite web site. Perhaps most importantly was the video for installing the windows which worked out great. I wasn't able to execute it as smoothly/effortlessly as the guy in the Sailrite video but to be fair, it was my first time. Here's the video link: http://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Install-a-Vinyl-Window-in-Canvas-Video#.U4XqnY1wrzg.
I'm buried with work and vacation and won't have a chance to return and finish this project for another few weeks but I'm close and as soon as I can take more pictures and create some measurements and a materials list, I'll post whatever I've got.
Best,
Evan
The welting from Sailrite (www.sailrite.com) is awesome. My only regret is that I didn't find it sooner. It appears to be marine grade, is easy to work with, and slides into the channels on the BJ44 like butter. Part numbers on the Sailrite Web site are #103299 - black or #102549 - white. I am using black.
Relatedly, I created the two side panels and the windows using a few of the videos from the Sailrite web site. Perhaps most importantly was the video for installing the windows which worked out great. I wasn't able to execute it as smoothly/effortlessly as the guy in the Sailrite video but to be fair, it was my first time. Here's the video link: http://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Install-a-Vinyl-Window-in-Canvas-Video#.U4XqnY1wrzg.
I'm buried with work and vacation and won't have a chance to return and finish this project for another few weeks but I'm close and as soon as I can take more pictures and create some measurements and a materials list, I'll post whatever I've got.
Best,
Evan
thenative1
SILVER Star
Closer and closer! Finally got some time and attached the side panels and cut the rear panel (not shown). Very happy about the black. The black changes the overall look of the BJ44 for the better and I love the performance and workability of the SeaMark fabric.
Upcoming weekend, tasks are many:
More next weekend when, I hope, I get closer to completion!
Best,
Evan
Upcoming weekend, tasks are many:
- attach the rear panel (lack of rear panel is reason for the sag in the top in picture below - no real tension on the top)
- add hardware to allow straps to attach to the footman loops
- install front corner grommets
- trim all excess fabric
- install twist lock grommet strips at bottom of each side panel
- last (but certainly not least) figure out how the panels come out of the rear door frame panels. Does anyone know the answer? Removing the frames from the lower metal door is fairly straightforward. Getting the canvas out of the upper frame is less so. Any advice/expertise is appreciated.
More next weekend when, I hope, I get closer to completion!
Best,
Evan
- Thread starter
- #220
amby doors? you must take out the seals by sliding them out of the channels - then you take out the screws holding the channels to the door and finally you can peel off the fabric on the doors.
looking really nice!!!
looking really nice!!!
