LX470 HID RETROFIT PROJECTOR BRACKET

[Luke111]

My M LED 2.0 has arrived! I'll be awaiting Lou's results with his D2S bracket - hopefully it's a fit!!

According to TRS I missed the first run of the M LED 2.0 and the next batch arrive on the

any update on 2002 LX470 daytime driving light upgrade?

Nothing yet but it’s my understanding that some of the early LX470’s had the daytime running light resistor added as part of a TSB from Lexus so if your car has the daytime running light resistor I could always send you a harness and a set of lights that you could try

 

[Luke111]

So the M-Led 2.0 arrived and sadly it’s not going to work without major surgery to the housing. It sits about 1/4 inch higher then the D2S which could easily be fixed by a slight redesign of the bracket the major problem is the back of the MLED touches the inside housing so you’d have to cut out a bit of the back of the lower housing and come up with some sort of custom cover as the projector also needs to go back another quarter inch or more into the housing so the shroud could sit flush to the housing

 

[zipdoa]

s***ty. Might have to try using the MLED2.0 in my 701 supermoto instead. Keep us posted if you have any further ideas on making them fit - i'm sure there's a few members stoked on the idea!

 

[Luke111]

So, the question is... how important is the cooling fan mounted to the bottom of the heat sync of the M-LED 2.0? Considering once the cap is on would the fan actually cool it down or create a convection oven effect? With the fan removed the M-LED 2.0 fits and can be centered and I could probably figure out a way to mount the fan inside the housing but I don’t see how it would effect the temperature. Any thoughts?

 

[iddibhai]

Can you run it with a temp probe in a box, to see what the rise rate is, and where it stabilizes? Then you can consider adding a mesh style heatsink outside the housing for passive cooling, but given how LEDs don't like heat, it might degrade lumen output and/or life, long term? Thinking out loud here.

 

[zipdoa]

Well, it certainly wouldn’t matter where I live at the moment. -30’F.

That being said, I would imagine morimoto did sufficient testing and established a need for cooling.

It looks like a fairly basic computer fan. I could easily source a smaller, slimmer unit that moves about the same CFM.

Would you be able to do up a set of brackets for the MLED2.0 with the caveat that the owners must sort their own fan solution? For me - the brackets are the hard part. I could get creative and help find a solution on my own time.

I love the no ballast/instant on aspect of the LED, and am really curious if these will actually outperform a D2S 5.0.

 

[Luke111]

Can you run it with a temp probe in a box, to see what the rise rate is, and where it stabilizes? Then you can consider adding a mesh style heatsink outside the housing for passive cooling, but given how LEDs don't like heat, it might degrade lumen output and/or life, long term? Thinking out loud here.

The back of the housing does have vents ...I’m assuming are to release moisture so the housing would vent hot air. The fact it’s under the heat sync is probably more for packaging?
Heat probe is a good idea but there is room to mount a fan inside to keep the air circulated.
. QUOTE="zipdoa, post: 12828431, member: 111085"]
Well, it certainly wouldn’t matter where I live at the moment. -30’F.

That being said, I would imagine morimoto did sufficient testing and established a need for cooling.

It looks like a fairly basic computer fan. I could easily source a smaller, slimmer unit that moves about the same CFM.

Would you be able to do up a set of brackets for the MLED2.0 with the caveat that the owners must sort their own fan solution? For me - the brackets are the hard part. I could get creative and help find a solution on my own time.

I love the no ballast/instant on aspect of the LED, and am really curious if these will actually outperform a D2S 5.0.
[/QUOTE]
The the brackets work fine .. the holes on the D2S bracket allow for almost 1/4 of movement and the fan was pushing the LED to the top of the holes so with the fan removed it mounts farther back and is centered so the shroud sits properly. I’m sure you’ve open the box and it does have a ballast looking box but it does not require a harness. At the end of the day the D2S produces a crazy amount of light and I don’t think the difference in output warrants the effort but I have a spare set of housing sitting around so I think I’ll test them out.

 

[Mbchance]

I have to give a shout out to @Luke111 - His brackets and willingness to talk me through a few parts of the install was well worth it!
As others have said, the upgrade is definitely a massive improvement of stock. Pictures don't do it justice.

I went with the following:
Morimoto Mini H1 Stage III Kit
6500k HID Bulb with 35W Ballasts

I also installed the 2Stroke LED Daytime Running Light/High Beam Kit from @Luke111 .. Works great and color and additional high beam is awesome!

Cut off is very clean and crisp!

High beams blasting, once again picture doesn't do it justice. Color is white and crisp providing a lot of light.

Better idea of the color and light output in this picture!

I took my time with the install since I'd never retrofitted headlights before and out of everything I feel capable of doing, electrical work of any kind makes me hesitant. I'm especially hesitant when it comes to my daily driver but after watching the videos provided in the install guide posted by Lou and checking out other peoples retrofit pictures and feedback, I was able to tackle it without any major setbacks. I'd be happy to provide detailed feedback and assist anyone else that may be gearing up for a retrofit. Just ask!

 

[phi1osopher]

Yay! I need a high-five. Just finished this and the other related threads. Reading up to retrofit Morimoto D2S 5.0 kits into the low beams of my 1999 LandCruiser. It looks like the physical install will be pretty straight forward, but I am curious about what people are doing with wiring to keep the low beams on all the time... I'm sure an additional search will fill in the details for me. ( I currently have aftermarket "1-piece" Denso headlight housings with high end LED bulbs, and the Densos had to be slightly modified to make these big LEDs fit...)

Luke, thank you for 3 years of thoughtful research and replies regarding these lighting retrofits! I'm seriously looking at your D2S kit:

LB BuiltWerks - Design - Fabrication - Retrofit Lexus LX470 Headlights

Custom Lexus LX470 Retrofit Brackets or New LX470 OEM Headlights Retrofitted with Morimoto HID/LED Projectors.

lbbuiltwerks.com

 

[Luke111]

Yay! I need a high-five. Just finished this and the other related threads. Reading up to retrofit Morimoto D2S 5.0 kits into the low beams of my 1999 LandCruiser. It looks like the physical install will be pretty straight forward, but I am curious about what people are doing with wiring to keep the low beams on all the time... I'm sure an additional search will fill in the details for me. ( I currently have aftermarket "1-piece" Denso headlight housings with high end LED bulbs, and the Densos had to be slightly modified to make these big LEDs fit...)

Luke, thank you for 3 years of thoughtful research and replies regarding these lighting retrofits! I'm seriously looking at your D2S kit:

LB BuiltWerks - Design - Fabrication - Retrofit Lexus LX470 Headlights

Custom Lexus LX470 Retrofit Brackets or New LX470 OEM Headlights Retrofitted with Morimoto HID/LED Projectors.

lbbuiltwerks.com

To run them like a DRL(daytime running light)? If that’s what you’re asking. I don’t think anyone is running their HID’s all the time but it shouldn’t be that hard to figure out.

 

[phi1osopher]

To run them like a DRL(daytime running light)? If that’s what you’re asking. I don’t think anyone is running their HID’s all the time but it shouldn’t be that hard to figure out.

EDIT: oops! I was trying to say that my low beams turn off when when I turn on my high beams, but I was mistaken. I thought my low beams turned off when my high beams came on, but my lows remain on when I activate the high beams. It is my fog lights that turn off when my high beams turn on. I would really like all my lights to remain on when I turn on my Highs...

My LC already has daytime running lights as a small 5w LED bulb in the Denso light housing... probably a great power source if I wanted to add "angel eyes."

I think that retrofitting the bi-xenon HID projectors into my LandCruiser's low beams, and possibly a 2nd set into my high beams would make things significantly different. I read (and like) what you did with an additional switch to toggle off your 2nd set of "high beam" projectors doe in-town driving. I probably will need to make a custom auxiliary lighting wire harness for all of it to work correctly. And, well, I'm just a normal, kind of poor guy who can't casually afford to spend $1000 on lighting upgrades all at once, though I see the advantage of trying to only take it all apart at the same time.

I saw your website, and your prices are actually very competitive with other online vendors. Could I give you a call sometime to see if we could put together a custom package for what I am hoping to do?

 

[Luke111]

EDIT: oops! I was trying to say that my low beams turn off when when I turn on my high beams, but I was mistaken. I thought my low beams turned off when my high beams came on, but my lows remain on when I activate the high beams. It is my fog lights that turn off when my high beams turn on. I would really like all my lights to remain on when I turn on my Highs...

My LC already has daytime running lights as a small 5w LED bulb in the Denso light housing... probably a great power source if I wanted to add "angel eyes."

I think that retrofitting the bi-xenon HID projectors into my LandCruiser's low beams, and possibly a 2nd set into my high beams would make things significantly different. I read (and like) what you did with an additional switch to toggle off your 2nd set of "high beam" projectors doe in-town driving. I probably will need to make a custom auxiliary lighting wire harness for all of it to work correctly. And, well, I'm just a normal, kind of poor guy who can't casually afford to spend $1000 on lighting upgrades all at once, though I see the advantage of trying to only take it all apart at the same time.

I saw your website, and your prices are actually very competitive with other online vendors. Could I give you a call sometime to see if we could put together a custom package for what I am hoping to do?

View attachment 2194642

View attachment 2194643

Call me anytime 703-371-8494

 

[saucebox]

EDIT: oops! I was trying to say that my low beams turn off when when I turn on my high beams, but I was mistaken. I thought my low beams turned off when my high beams came on, but my lows remain on when I activate the high beams. It is my fog lights that turn off when my high beams turn on. I would really like all my lights to remain on when I turn on my Highs...

That's easily fixed. Now if only I can remember how...

I think it's just a matter of cutting a wire in the steering column (and maybe grounding it?). Works fine on mine, I'll look for where I found the information.

Edit: found it. Fog Light Switch Rewire for High Beam Use

 

[Luke111]

For those who have done their own retrofit or anyone running lights that I've built your should go back and put Dielectric Grease on every connection to insure a solid electrical connection to help eliminate intermittent light failure

 

[Luke111]

I've been asked a few times about JDM Clear Corner lights so I reached out to @ranma21. I ordered a set for myself today and he has 6-7 sets available... He sent me this and I linked the thread for anyone interested.


I do have Toyota Genuine clear corner lamp in stock ready to ship. It is $179 plus $15 rides. Add $26 for the 4 plugs/harnesses for LX470 if you want them as well. If you like a set, paypal friends & family: whsian@hotmail.com. Add 3% paypal fees for regular payment.

Genuine Toyota crystal clear corner lamp interest

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Kabanstva]

Luke, do you know if those clear corners are the earlier model ones or the later model with the slightly greenish tint (to match the factory green tint of the newer LX lights)?

I ordered a used set of clear corners from Japan last year in mint shape but they’re the earlier version with no green hue, so it wouldn’t match my lights. I didn’t even think about this when I ordered mine.

 

[Kabanstva]

Attached pic shows the clear corner light with green tint. The ones I bought are just clear (I’m guessing to match the glass lens lights of the earlier model LX).

 

[Luke111]

I don't have that answer... I'm thinking they are early version without the green tint but the earlier glass head lights are silver.

 

[Luke111]

Attached pic shows the clear corner light with green tint. The ones I bought are just clear (I’m guessing to match the glass lens lights of the earlier model LX).

View attachment 2226079

Notice how green they are ...those are the Chinese version and they are really green and will not match either

 

[Kabanstva]

By the way, I never thanked you for the lights you built me. I haven’t installed them yet because I’m waiting for warmer weather, but I did bring them to work and put some Suntek paint protection film on all the lenses and got them ceramic coated. I’m very happy with your work, looks like a super clean install with nothing at all to nitpick at. You’re very good at what you do.

Those D2S lenses have a blue tint when you look at them from certain angles which I thought was super cool!