Luke111
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LX470 HID RETROFIT PROJECTOR BRACKET (7 Viewers)
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Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #502
I'm still finishing up the details of the M-LED bracket .. but here are a few things to consider.. The D2S has a wider light pattern and the difference in light intensity is right in the center. ( watch a few reviews on You Tube)...the no harness aspect of the M-LED is nice but the normal harness is pretty simple to install. I'm also going to back off from my earlier comment that the M-LED is a game changer and I'm doing so for one reason...if you have any issues with the LED light... you'll have to bake your lights and remove the projector.... with the HID you simply change the bulb, ballast or harness....Just a few things to consider.
I am very interested, but this is a couple back in my queue at the moment. I will revisit this after a couple more paychecks.
Oh wow.... That's crazy, and a horrible idea to install. I would hate to have to bake my lights every time I needed to swap one of these out!
Thanks for the heads up. So I'm going to order the H1 bracket then since it is a simpler install in comparison (no dremmel!), and I presume I can swap bulbs, etc with the H1 kit without having to go back and re-bake the headlights again after the initial install.
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #505
Whenever you're ready
The idea behind LED's.... they last a long time, are very reliable and I'm sure Morimoto has put them to the test. I plan on running a pair for a few months just to test them and the bracket will be available for those wanting to install them.
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #507
For those looking to retrofit new OEM headlights... I updated my site with
1998-2002 Glass Lens Headlights and 2003-2007 Polycarbonate Lens Headlights ...added the D2S Bracket and you can now use a credit card to make purchases..
Over the next few weeks I’ll be adding
Projectors, ballast, bulbs and complete kits .. along with pricing for custom builds in new housing.
Also moving forward all brackets will be shipped with the plastic attachment
point connectors. These connectors fit the bracket width better and eliminate any play the bracket may have with the OEM connectors...I ordered them from TRS.
A few close up shots of the tight tolerances the D2S bracket requires
1998-2002 Glass Lens Headlights and 2003-2007 Polycarbonate Lens Headlights ...added the D2S Bracket and you can now use a credit card to make purchases..
Over the next few weeks I’ll be adding
Projectors, ballast, bulbs and complete kits .. along with pricing for custom builds in new housing.
Also moving forward all brackets will be shipped with the plastic attachment
point connectors. These connectors fit the bracket width better and eliminate any play the bracket may have with the OEM connectors...I ordered them from TRS.
A few close up shots of the tight tolerances the D2S bracket requires
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Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #509
One of the issues I’ve run into with the D2S is finding a housing cap that fits and seals and I would really prefer to use the straight ballasts adapter which then connects to the igniter ..... this setup would work with a small 80mm cop but it does not come with a housing grommet ( working with Nick at TRS to come up with a solution)
The XB igniter is sweet .... bulb connector and igniter in one package.
It actually comes with a grommet but because it mounts sideways you really can’t use the grommet on any cap.
In my quest to come up with solution I headed over to Home Depot‘s plumbing department and found this pretty slick rubber cap with a stainless steel clamp.... I drilled a hole for the igniter wire ... cut a slice to the hole and it works perfect ...well may look a little strange it’s very functionable and I’m pretty excited about it.. and working on a variation that slightly extended
The XB igniter is sweet .... bulb connector and igniter in one package.
It actually comes with a grommet but because it mounts sideways you really can’t use the grommet on any cap.
In my quest to come up with solution I headed over to Home Depot‘s plumbing department and found this pretty slick rubber cap with a stainless steel clamp.... I drilled a hole for the igniter wire ... cut a slice to the hole and it works perfect ...well may look a little strange it’s very functionable and I’m pretty excited about it.. and working on a variation that slightly extended
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #511
Like every project we’ve ever attempted to tackle the more you do it the better you get.
So a few new build techniques that will be added to the install guide.
First up the new clips from TRS while they are very tight the hole is quite a bit smaller so you need to open that up with the 3/16 drill bit.
The newer brackets have larger mounting holes so you can fine-tune the rotation but it also create a tightening problem....once you get the rotation adjusted you can’t really access the back of the bolt with the projector mounted in the housing so here’s the trick ....JB Weld your bolts to the projector...I actually attached the nut to keep them secure and square....let them sit overnight. Once they’re mounted to the bracket and the brackets in the housing you go out for your adjustment and simply tighten the nut from the front. I also used JB Weld on the nut just for a little added assurance .
For those working on the D2S I received two projectors with one of the mounting holes sealed up so drilled it open
I disassembled the projector .... didn’t want to get any metal particles on the shield components
So a few new build techniques that will be added to the install guide.
First up the new clips from TRS while they are very tight the hole is quite a bit smaller so you need to open that up with the 3/16 drill bit.
The newer brackets have larger mounting holes so you can fine-tune the rotation but it also create a tightening problem....once you get the rotation adjusted you can’t really access the back of the bolt with the projector mounted in the housing so here’s the trick ....JB Weld your bolts to the projector...I actually attached the nut to keep them secure and square....let them sit overnight. Once they’re mounted to the bracket and the brackets in the housing you go out for your adjustment and simply tighten the nut from the front. I also used JB Weld on the nut just for a little added assurance .
For those working on the D2S I received two projectors with one of the mounting holes sealed up so drilled it open
I disassembled the projector .... didn’t want to get any metal particles on the shield components
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #512
I’m sending a few shrouds to a local laser company they are going to attempt to open up the shroud using a laser which will really make the D2S and the M-Led a simple retrofit
I’m also working on adding a halo to the Gatling shroud in the quad set up that will be wired to the ignition as a daytime running light and also gets tapped into the turn signal and will blink orange when I switch on the turn signal
I’m also working on adding a halo to the Gatling shroud in the quad set up that will be wired to the ignition as a daytime running light and also gets tapped into the turn signal and will blink orange when I switch on the turn signal
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Hey guys, I just started my H1 project and I'm staging the wiring first but got a little confused. Wondering if you guys can help me out.
Am I understanding this correctly, for the high beam splitter: one tail will connect to the OEM high beam bulb and the other will connect to the Moriomoto projector. So the male end of the splitter is suppose to connect to the cars original connector? Am I missing an adapter?
And the OEM input wire coming from the HD relay, that connects to the original low beam harness? And this is only done on the drivers side?
Thanks in advance!
Am I understanding this correctly, for the high beam splitter: one tail will connect to the OEM high beam bulb and the other will connect to the Moriomoto projector. So the male end of the splitter is suppose to connect to the cars original connector? Am I missing an adapter?
And the OEM input wire coming from the HD relay, that connects to the original low beam harness? And this is only done on the drivers side?
Thanks in advance!
Good for you, I have the brackets sitting in the garage, but nervous to pull the trigger doing it, afraid I'll get lost halfway through the be stuck without a car!
Good for you, I have the brackets sitting in the garage, but nervous to pull the trigger doing it, afraid I'll get lost halfway through the be stuck without a car!
I have a second car so I'm taking my time doing this project. Staged all the wiring, just finished JB Welding bolts to the projector and baking my second headlight now using the 240 degrees F for 20 min and it came off just fine. So far so good, will probably have this all finished by tomorrow. So far so good.
Actually, I ended up breaking the 3 bumper fillers that wrap the headlights and the plastic push pins. It was 30 degrees here in Massachusetts, I ended up ordering new parts, 300 bucks for the 3 pieces and still gotta paint them.
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