It’s underneath the glove box. Stick your head down there and you’ll see it. Three screws and one electrical plug and it’s out.
LX470 Cabin Air Filter Replacement DIY (3 Viewers)
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Ok. Thanks. After seeing yours I am pretty motivated to check mine!
Thanks! Are they torque screws? Mine are stripped out beyond recognition. Hoping I can get them out with a socket
This was a very long story but in the end, had a happy ending.
I was reading your posts, you guys could get cabin filter doors to accept the insertion of a filter just prior to the evaporator. I googled the part number on an EU online Toyota parts manual, it showed the door and I went to my local Toyota dealer, CMI in Adelaide, Australia and ordered it. 3 weeks later it arrived but there was a problem. The filter door was on the opposite side compared to the pic on the online manual, so it was for a LHD car.........After three weeks of very heated discussion between CMI Parts (4 of their sales staff) and myself, I demanded to speak to their manager. My point was the part number did not match the picture. Therefore, there must be a filter door that accepts filters for RHD 100 series Landcruisers and LX470's. My research suggested that the door was standard on VX and Sahara but optional on GLX GLV. When you look at the OEM cover with no filter access door, there is clearly castings marks where the door should be. I was told categorically by junior staff that it didn't exist. Once I spoke to the manager, within two days he had the part number for me. It appears that the very early model 100 series/ 105 series came out with the door and sometime on or after 2000 they stopped offering them in Australia. Then they ceased to exist on Toyota's data base.
So here are the part numbers.
RHD Evaporator Cover with filter door 88891-60030
LHD Evaporator Cover with filter door 88891-60040
Clip on filter door. 88891-60060
In order to access the cover you have to pull off the glove box, there are 4 or 5 youtube clips explaining how to do it for LHD cars. There are 8 screws that hold the cover on and 2 larger silver screws that hold a square relay / IC on the face of the cover. It will be fiddly getting it off, but it does come off.
My suggestion is, once you get the cover off, put a bucket in the foot well under the evaporator box and hose it out gently. It will be filled with mud and dust. As the dust hits the damp evaporator it turns to mud and clogs everything. Take your time and be thorough.
I was reading your posts, you guys could get cabin filter doors to accept the insertion of a filter just prior to the evaporator. I googled the part number on an EU online Toyota parts manual, it showed the door and I went to my local Toyota dealer, CMI in Adelaide, Australia and ordered it. 3 weeks later it arrived but there was a problem. The filter door was on the opposite side compared to the pic on the online manual, so it was for a LHD car.........After three weeks of very heated discussion between CMI Parts (4 of their sales staff) and myself, I demanded to speak to their manager. My point was the part number did not match the picture. Therefore, there must be a filter door that accepts filters for RHD 100 series Landcruisers and LX470's. My research suggested that the door was standard on VX and Sahara but optional on GLX GLV. When you look at the OEM cover with no filter access door, there is clearly castings marks where the door should be. I was told categorically by junior staff that it didn't exist. Once I spoke to the manager, within two days he had the part number for me. It appears that the very early model 100 series/ 105 series came out with the door and sometime on or after 2000 they stopped offering them in Australia. Then they ceased to exist on Toyota's data base.
So here are the part numbers.
RHD Evaporator Cover with filter door 88891-60030
LHD Evaporator Cover with filter door 88891-60040
Clip on filter door. 88891-60060
In order to access the cover you have to pull off the glove box, there are 4 or 5 youtube clips explaining how to do it for LHD cars. There are 8 screws that hold the cover on and 2 larger silver screws that hold a square relay / IC on the face of the cover. It will be fiddly getting it off, but it does come off.
My suggestion is, once you get the cover off, put a bucket in the foot well under the evaporator box and hose it out gently. It will be filled with mud and dust. As the dust hits the damp evaporator it turns to mud and clogs everything. Take your time and be thorough.
Yeah I can’t imagine the mess in there for those that didn’t have the door installed. I change mine out every year and am amazed at the amount of stuff the i vacuum out of the bottom of the filter area.
Don´t complicate your life, guys!
(maybe someone yet offered this type of solution, I didn´t read all the 15 pages)
My 98´ HDJ100 has the door in the vent box for installing the two filters, but came originally without filters. In Europe they are not standard and even the Toyota dealer doubts if you order them with their part numbers "... we never installed cabin air filters in a 10-series. There is no compartment to install them." (bla-bla-bla). When I received the first filters some years ago, I saw that they are only fabric-filters, no activated carbon. I put them in their compartment for a year o so, then I removed them and thought for a better solution. I want activated carbon filters to clean at least some of the chemical pollution from outside.
First solution: Cut out the mesh from the plastic frames and substitute it with the activated carbon filter material from a new cabin air filter for another car model. Glued in with non-toxic white wood-glue (personal recomendation: "Bindulin Bindan-P Propellerleim", a 1000-year-old german quality product developed for glueing spacecraft propellers
) , worked perfect, but was a three-or-more hour work for every one of the both filters.
But the activated carbon looses it´s absortion, so when it was time to change the filter again, I thought about a better solution, and I found out: The cabin air filters for a Renault (don´t ask me for what model) have the same length and thickness as the Toyota plastic filter frames. Only the hight is different. So I bought two activated-carbon MecaFilter EKR7030 for little money (use manufacturer´s cross-reference search to find equivalent type from your prefered filter manufacturer), the first one fits perfectly in the LC´s filter compartment, the second one has to be modified (easy: a sharp cutter, a thin plastic strip and some white glue), and together they make a perfect filter combination for the LC (hint: If you think twice before cutting the second filter in two parts, you can use it for making _two_ second filters. I was too fast with cutting it with my machete, so for the next production I have to buy two new ones (about 12Euro/piece)):
The only "negative point" for this solution: This combination of two filters doesn´t fit through the filter-compartment door; so it is necessary to remove the entire cover to put them in/out. But, guys, this is not really a problem, isn´t it? For a one-time-per-year filter-change twenty minutes of work is a good time-effort proportion.
In this image, just after putting in the two filters, they are a litte bit twisted, this is because of the foam tape they wear on their outside to seal them against the housing interior. For a smarter appearance, I put a small piece of foam in, so they are lined up straight.
Of course, this work is always a good opportunity to re-work the cable routing behind the glove box and remove everything that is not necessary. Everytime I open it, I find better solutions for perfect routing BTW: My personal recomendation: "Ty-Rap" cable ties from Thomas&Betts (now ABB). A perfect product.
Hope, this information is useful for someone.
(maybe someone yet offered this type of solution, I didn´t read all the 15 pages)
My 98´ HDJ100 has the door in the vent box for installing the two filters, but came originally without filters. In Europe they are not standard and even the Toyota dealer doubts if you order them with their part numbers "... we never installed cabin air filters in a 10-series. There is no compartment to install them." (bla-bla-bla). When I received the first filters some years ago, I saw that they are only fabric-filters, no activated carbon. I put them in their compartment for a year o so, then I removed them and thought for a better solution. I want activated carbon filters to clean at least some of the chemical pollution from outside.
First solution: Cut out the mesh from the plastic frames and substitute it with the activated carbon filter material from a new cabin air filter for another car model. Glued in with non-toxic white wood-glue (personal recomendation: "Bindulin Bindan-P Propellerleim", a 1000-year-old german quality product developed for glueing spacecraft propellers
) , worked perfect, but was a three-or-more hour work for every one of the both filters.
But the activated carbon looses it´s absortion, so when it was time to change the filter again, I thought about a better solution, and I found out: The cabin air filters for a Renault (don´t ask me for what model) have the same length and thickness as the Toyota plastic filter frames. Only the hight is different. So I bought two activated-carbon MecaFilter EKR7030 for little money (use manufacturer´s cross-reference search to find equivalent type from your prefered filter manufacturer), the first one fits perfectly in the LC´s filter compartment, the second one has to be modified (easy: a sharp cutter, a thin plastic strip and some white glue), and together they make a perfect filter combination for the LC (hint: If you think twice before cutting the second filter in two parts, you can use it for making _two_ second filters. I was too fast with cutting it with my machete, so for the next production I have to buy two new ones (about 12Euro/piece)):
The only "negative point" for this solution: This combination of two filters doesn´t fit through the filter-compartment door; so it is necessary to remove the entire cover to put them in/out. But, guys, this is not really a problem, isn´t it? For a one-time-per-year filter-change twenty minutes of work is a good time-effort proportion.
In this image, just after putting in the two filters, they are a litte bit twisted, this is because of the foam tape they wear on their outside to seal them against the housing interior. For a smarter appearance, I put a small piece of foam in, so they are lined up straight.
Of course, this work is always a good opportunity to re-work the cable routing behind the glove box and remove everything that is not necessary. Everytime I open it, I find better solutions for perfect routing
BTW: My personal recomendation: "Ty-Rap" cable ties from Thomas&Betts (now ABB). A perfect product.Hope, this information is useful for someone.
Last edited:
snowglobe
SILVER Star
That was a neat post, but what does "1000-year-old german quality product developed for glueing spacecraft propellers" mean?
My hair sometimes stands up like Baby Ed's but I've never presented on the Ancient Aliens TV program.
Please tell me more about the ancient Teutonic astronauts.
My hair sometimes stands up like Baby Ed's but I've never presented on the Ancient Aliens TV program.
Please tell me more about the ancient Teutonic astronauts.
This means that it was intented to be something like a joke, because the german propeller-driven spacecraft were developed only 200 years ago.
What I want to express is that the mentioned "Propeller glue" is in fact a marvelous product, and even without any harmful chemical componentes.
Sorry, Top Secret! Only disclosed fact I can tell publicly is that they brought Angela Merkel with them from some place at outer space.
This thread appears to have gone plenty long but I know there was a lot of interest by some for a activated carbon filter.
I see that FRAM is now selling one - FRAM CF11923 Fresh Breeze Cabin Air Filter
FRAM CF11923 Fresh Breeze Cabin Air Filter - $45
A little spendy for me but I can see the value for some.
I see that FRAM is now selling one - FRAM CF11923 Fresh Breeze Cabin Air Filter
FRAM CF11923 Fresh Breeze Cabin Air Filter - $45
A little spendy for me but I can see the value for some.
Great thread. Changed out my cabin filters in two shakes - if that. Spent more time wondering what types of leaves were in my filters than actually doing the change itself!
On to the blower...
On to the blower...
I can only guess (after reading 15 pages of really detailed and helpful info) that the direction of air flow is from the side window to the middle of the car.
Can someone please confirm that, since people mention not to get the flow direction wrong, but don't indicate what that might be.
Many thanks!
Can someone please confirm that, since people mention not to get the flow direction wrong, but don't indicate what that might be.
Many thanks!
That's correct, airflow is towards the center of the vehicle. The blower is upstream of the filter, so you'll see debris in the fan cage and it pushes air through the filter into the coils and out the vents.
Thank you for prompt reply!
UPDATE: few hours later, went on to install the filters and:
surely enough, I don't have it.
Now I know this has been discussed before, but this thread is quite old also, so I will ask again in order to get a more up-to-date info:
where people buy the parts needed for conversion please
- 88891-60050 No. 2 Cooler Cover (filter access door)
- 88891-60040 No. 1 Cooler Cover
- 88568-60010 (x2) Air Filters
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prwillard2
SILVER Star
Did this today. My filter box was full of debris that I had to blow out with my air compressor. Original filters were filthy.
These were denso filters I got off Amazon.
These were denso filters I got off Amazon.
implayaz9,
Were you ever able to confirm the part numbers for this retrofit? I have 2006 LC with no slots.
This is an update to a very old 2005 but very useful thread. I have a 2005 Land Cruiser and it did not even have the door through which to place the filters. 2 years ago I had the famous drip problem on the passenger side so fixed it by replacing the 15 yr old gasket. Today I am removing the same cover to put in my new cover that allows the filters to be inserted. I ordered the new cover Toyota OEM PN 88891-60040 plus the pair of Denso filters PN 453-1001. One package includes both filters. Then after installing the new cover and inserting the 2 filters, I start looking for the cooler cover / cap that should snap on to seal the system. Hmmm. Found out that is another PN that must be ordered separately OEM PN 88891-30680 for about $12 on ebay. It will be in after I return from Cruise Moab 2022 so I tried duct tape to cover and seal the rectangular hole. The air pressure from the fan blows the tape off so I will have to wait for the cap piece to really get it right.
Moral of the story. If you have a drip and want to change the gasket, look to see if your cover has the filter slot. While you are at it, for the same labor, you can fix the drip, clean out the filter compartment, install a new cover plate OEM PN 88891-60040, cap OEM PN 88891-30680 and new Denso filters PN 453-1001 to completely retrofit filters. Now for the bonus round, you can double check the glove box courtesy light making sure the headlights/parking lights are on. It the bulb is out, then you already have everything disassembled to replace the burned out bulb too. #74 bulb type is supposed to work.
Moral of the story. If you have a drip and want to change the gasket, look to see if your cover has the filter slot. While you are at it, for the same labor, you can fix the drip, clean out the filter compartment, install a new cover plate OEM PN 88891-60040, cap OEM PN 88891-30680 and new Denso filters PN 453-1001 to completely retrofit filters. Now for the bonus round, you can double check the glove box courtesy light making sure the headlights/parking lights are on. It the bulb is out, then you already have everything disassembled to replace the burned out bulb too. #74 bulb type is supposed to work.
