Loose Steering / Play in Steering wheel of FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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What are the likely culprits for a loose steering wheel? Tie Rods.... what else might it be? When driving down the freeway, you have to stay on top of the steering. There is probably 3-4" of play from dead center (1.5"-2" on each side from dead center)
 
I'm guessing it's an accumulation of a lot of things - wheel bearings, that pitman thingy on the steering link, steering box, PS box if you have one, kingpins, leaf springs...

Just bought a FJ-40 myself and need to clean up a large amount of play in the steering.
 
Center arms on 1970 FJ55's imported from Guyana are notorious for that problem.

That's your truck, right?
 
Once you checkout the condition of the frt end components, tre's, bushings and such, then its all in the steering geometry. There's a search function that will help guide you thru the process.
 
Squat down by your front door, reach up inside the cab and wiggle the wheel while you’re looking at the pitman arm where it attaches to the steering box. You will learn a lot.😉

And if needed, I am still rebuilding steering boxes.
 
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What are the likely culprits for a loose steering wheel? Tie Rods.... what else might it be? When driving down the freeway, you have to stay on top of the steering. There is probably 3-4" of play from dead center (1.5"-2" on each side from dead center)
Check the Steering Box for worn gear.
 
That's what I did with mine... and realized I need power steering :rofl: Which reminds me, I need to call 65swb45 and order a saginaw box and drop pitman arm etc!
 
Keep in mind the stock Toyota spec is 1 degree positive caster…almost straight up….this ‘lightens’ the steering load feedback, makes it feel ‘loosely gossey’. There’s not a lot you can do, 17 inch steering wheel is tremendous leverage, power steering make it even touchier.
If you find all tie rod joints tight, and the steering box is adjusted, and she’s still loose, learn to accept just one of the Land Cruiser’s charming flaws..

Bee Goof
 
So I found a video on Youtube of how to make adjustments on the side of the steering box. From what I understand the nut on the adjustment screw has to be loosened so you can adjust the "adjustment screw" to tighten up the steering.

When I loosed up the bolt, it appears that the adjustment bolt and screw are somewhat seized. Is it ok to take the bolt and screw completely out to unseize them? I don't want the inner workings of the steering box to fall out of their correct positioning.
 
So I found a video on Youtube of how to make adjustments on the side of the steering box. From what I understand the nut on the adjustment screw has to be loosened so you can adjust the "adjustment screw" to tighten up the steering.

When I loosed up the bolt, it appears that the adjustment bolt and screw are somewhat seized. Is it ok to take the bolt and screw completely out to unseize them? I don't want the inner workings of the steering box to fall out of their correct positioning.
I think I would start with every other component first. I appreciate that suggestion doesn't answer your question but that adjustment screw isn't going to take care of a couple of inches of play in each direction.
 
1973 and newer boxes are FUNDAMENTALLY different from earlier boxes. And that is not an adjustment screw.

I have sold too many side covers to people who think it is.
 
Just call Mark & get the rebuilt box, relay rod rebuild parts, center arm rebuild parts, ends if needed and lets not forget to check bushings in springs, shackle tightness, steering arm stud tightness, trunion bearing slop, & wheeling bearings, all these can contribute to a loose feel.
 
I have the same issues. After TRE’s replaced. Have done Marks test and it’s the box on mine… easy to see.
 
Once all other joints and knuckles have been done and as long as you don't have grinding noises or notches when turning, take off the large pitman arm nut, pull off the pitman after marking its location, take the side cover off, allow grease and oil to fall out over everything, pull out the sector shaft towards the engine, stick your finger in and grab the washer and shims likely stacked and stuck against the brass bush.

Clean and count the washer and shims and note their orientation. Take only the thicker washer, place over the cleaned sector shaft and guide the sector back in, reinstall the side cover, adjust the set screw so you have a little side/end play only, lightly place the pitman arm over the splines with the nut and spring washer finger tight and start to feel how much play you have in the steering. It should be down to 1/1.5in if you are lucky. If less than and inch, add shims until you have an inch of play. Unless the brass bush or sector shaft are heavily worn, you will have much tighter steering. Remember to fill with grease and on the older boxes, the small front side shaft seal works perfectly fine.

Follow the factory manual after pulling the entire steering box and shaft if the roller bearings or main shaft bearings are toast.
 
Once all other joints and knuckles have been done and as long as you don't have grinding noises or notches when turning, take off the large pitman arm nut, pull off the pitman after marking its location, take the side cover off, allow grease and oil to fall out over everything, pull out the sector shaft towards the engine, stick your finger in and grab the washer and shims likely stacked and stuck against the brass bush.

Clean and count the washer and shims and note their orientation. Take only the thicker washer, place over the cleaned sector shaft and guide the sector back in, reinstall the side cover, adjust the set screw so you have a little side/end play only, lightly place the pitman arm over the splines with the nut and spring washer finger tight and start to feel how much play you have in the steering. It should be down to 1/1.5in if you are lucky. If less than and inch, add shims until you have an inch of play. Unless the brass bush or sector shaft are heavily worn, you will have much tighter steering. Remember to fill with grease and on the older boxes, the small front side shaft seal works perfectly fine.

Follow the factory manual after pulling the entire steering box and shaft if the roller bearings or main shaft bearings are toast.
Thanks for the detailed instructions. You mentioned the factory manual. I have a Chiltons manual but does not cover that at all. Do you happen to have an online link for that?
 

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