Long time Land Cruiser guy, first time LX470! (3 Viewers)

[seth]

Wanted to jump in and say hello now that I'm part of the 100-club errr, umm... the LX470 club. Just picked up this beauty, a 1999 LX470 from Southern California. Has around 283k, but with records of an engine swap/rebuild about 20k miles ago (donor engine allegedly had 120k miles on it). OME Lift, ARB brush guard, and Rhino Rack up top. Photo Below

Here are the repair or replace things already in my future:

• Brake pedal is a 2-pumper... mildly soft on first pump, but still functional. No lights on dash. After reading through the forums, I assume this could be the master cylinder or potentially early sign of the dreaded booster motor. I've already ordered a replacement booster motor and going to do a flush (with Toyota brake fluid, of course) when I swap that out. I have not planned on doing anything with the master while I have everything apart. Do you think I should? Something to note, being as this is my first Lexus, AND my first "newer" Land Cruiser that I will be working on (i know, I know, it's not a LC... old habits) I brought it to Lexus for them to do their general inspection – hoping to get a list of things I may need to keep an eye out for. I specifically asked them to double-check my brake system and their report back was "BRAKE SYSTEM OKAY, AT THIS TIME, PEDAL FEELS NORMAL, BRAKE FLUID IS OLD AND DIRTY ADVISE TO PERFORM BG BRAKE FLUID COMPLETE EXCHANGE AND FLUSH ALL LINES"
• Power steering high pressure hose has some residual grease/fluid building up on it... but nothing dripping to the ground yet. Should I be really concerned about this, or can it wait a while? My gut is that if this is not a part that is prone to catastrophic failure, it can wait.
• My starter was a little sluggish the first day or two, but I also noticed that the battery terminals had pretty bad corrosion. Now that the corrosion is all cleaned up, I haven't had the starter click problem. I went ahead and ordered a new factory starter to have it in the shop just in case, but if I can avoid pulling the intake manifold for now, I will. Anyone else seen that same issue, or is the solenoid on these old starters problematic?

I've spent about 20 hours reading through the FAQ and the threads in this forum to see what to expect, but would love to know if there's anything else you guys think I should be keeping an eye on. Thanks in advance!

-Seth

 

[SteveH]

but would love to know if there's anything else you guys think I should be keeping an eye on.

Heater tees? Don't even push on them with your thumb to 'test' them, until you have replacements on hand. If they original, they will likely crumble.

I would wipe off the high pressure PS hose and watch it for a while.

Hard to say on the starter. It seems they usually just flat-out fail, but I suppose they could get sluggish. Be sure to really clean the manifold-to-block interface well (carefully, with a pressure washer) before you remove the manifold. Very easy for sand/gravel to fall into the engine as you pull the manifold.

 

[suprarx7nut]

It's a Land Cruiser. Not sure why that's a thing. In North America, it was rebranded as Lexus, but in most the rest of the world it's a Toyota Land Cruiser Cygnus. Literally a Land Cruiser.

Anyways, I would do the master before the booster. The master cylinder is the traditional component responsible for inconsistent pedal pressure and it still applies in the 100.

Heater Tees are a must. If you still have AHC, check pressures, check globes and adjust/replace as needed.

 

[2001LC]

Good looking 1999 100 series. You've a Land Cruiser with lipstick and few extras, AKA LX470. I've four of them!

Be interesting to check the engine VIN# plate riveted on RH head, center above exhaust manifold. Run caxfax, service history at Lexus | My Lexus - https://www.lexus.com/My-Lexus and call Lexus Dealership. You'll be able to get model, mileage and possible service history. You'll also find Owners Manual (OM) and maintenance schedule.

I like to grade masters. Age, color of fluid, staining in reservoir, pumps of pedal to evacuate accumulator, booster motor run time to re pressurize accumulator, condition of brake control wire, leaks and breather. Also inspect brake lines and caliper. Here's more info to help:

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

Slow crank during start. Is almost most always related to battery voltage. Oxidation between post & clamp, not only reduces voltage to starter. But also reduce it's ability to accept a full charge, which damages battery. It's very likely the starter was replaced, during engine swap. Either with start in replacement engine or a remanufactured. You can look at starter without pulling intake manifold, for clues (info plate).

Here's some other areas, to be aware of:
If you hear a tick, don't just assume exhaust manifold leak.

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

Radiator fin cleaning, is recommended in OM.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

I find almost 50% of air filter poorly installed, resulting in sucking dust. About 10% air tube install poorly.

Air filter Alert, Alert, Alert

Yet another alert o_O I'm just see, all to often, where engine Air Filter is installed improperly and rubber seal of filter has curled. How could that be. We just pop in a fasten down with 4 clips right. Well right. But if care is not taken during install, to seat lid on seal. The seal gets...

forum.ih8mud.com

I like baselining all fluids and lube propeller shafts & spiders. Also all rubber lines that are weeping, cracked or damage. In the 98-02 replace the PCV grommet.

Power steering is so over looked:

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[TequilaMechanic]

It’s absolutely a Land Cruiser, no sweat there.

Power steering fluid I would wipe up and monitor reservoir level weekly. I’d add AT-205 out of an abundance of caution until I could redo the lines (plural) and complete a full fluid flush.

My LX is a tad slow to crank as well (gut feel). I’ll clean up my battery terminals like you did and see if there’s a difference.

Make sure your E brake is fully functional. It’s all you got if your brake booster dies.

 

[seth]

It's a Land Cruiser. Not sure why that's a thing. In North America, it was rebranded as Lexus, but in most the rest of the world it's a Toyota Land Cruiser Cygnus. Literally a Land Cruiser.

Anyways, I would do the master before the booster. The master cylinder is the traditional component responsible for inconsistent pedal pressure and it still applies in the 100.

Heater Tees are a must. If you still have AHC, check pressures, check globes and adjust/replace as needed.

Glad I'm in good company with the opinion that it's totally a Land Cruiser (albeit the fanciest one I've ever had).

I'm considering going for the whole ABS/Master/Booster assembly, and then keeping this as a spare on hand for another 150k miles from now...

No AHC anymore with the OME lift in place – plan on eventually removing the reservoir and putting a dual battery setup there.

 

[seth]

but would love to know if there's anything else you guys think I should be keeping an eye on.

Heater tees? Don't even push on them with your thumb to 'test' them, until you have replacements on hand. If they original, they will likely crumble.

I would wipe off the high pressure PS hose and watch it for a while.

Hard to say on the starter. It seems they usually just flat-out fail, but I suppose they could get sluggish. Be sure to really clean the manifold-to-block interface well (carefully, with a pressure washer) before you remove the manifold. Very easy for sand/gravel to fall into the engine as you pull the manifold.

I'll take a look at those tees. I know the radiator was replaced 2 years ago, but not sure if they did that. I read through the forums on that one, and while I appreciate the stainless steel approach, there's something comforting about going OEM for those replacements.

Good call on the wipe & watch of the PS hose. I'll do that.

I think the battery terminal cleanup did the trick... if I can avoid taking off the intake manifold for a while I will.

 

[seth]

It’s absolutely a Land Cruiser, no sweat there.

Power steering fluid I would wipe up and monitor reservoir level weekly. I’d add AT-205 out of an abundance of caution until I could redo the lines (plural) and complete a full fluid flush.

My LX is a tad slow to crank as well (gut feel). I’ll clean up my battery terminals like you did and see if there’s a difference.

Make sure your E brake is fully functional. It’s all you got if your brake booster dies.

Going to do a wipe down of the PS hoses this coming week. I'm always hesitant to put any "sealant" products into these systems. I'm not seeing any significant shortage of power steering fluid, so it must be a really slow leak.

Fresh and sparkly and haven't had the failure to spin issue for 3 days – assuming either the starter problem is intermittent, or it was just an electrical issue that is now sorted out with the battery terminal cleaning.

E-Brake feels solid, but I need to see what the FSM procedure for actually spec-ing it out.

 

[seth]

Good looking 1999 100 series. You've a Land Cruiser with lipstick and few extras, AKA LX470. I've four of them!

Be interesting to check the engine VIN# plate riveted on RH head, center above exhaust manifold. Run caxfax, service history at Lexus | My Lexus - https://www.lexus.com/My-Lexus and call Lexus Dealership. You'll be able to get model, mileage and possible service history. You'll also find Owners Manual (OM) and maintenance schedule.

I like to grade masters. Age, color of fluid, staining in reservoir, pumps of pedal to evacuate accumulator, booster motor run time to re pressurize accumulator, condition of brake control wire, leaks and breather. Also inspect brake lines and caliper. Here's more info to help:

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

Slow crank during start. Is almost most always related to battery voltage. Oxidation between post & clamp, not only reduces voltage to starter. But also reduce it's ability to accept a full charge, which damages battery. It's very likely the starter was replaced, during engine swap. Either with start in replacement engine or a remanufactured. You can look at starter without pulling intake manifold, for clues (info plate).

Here's some other areas, to be aware of:
If you hear a tick, don't just assume exhaust manifold leak.

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

Radiator fin cleaning, is recommended in OM.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

I find almost 50% of air filter poorly installed, resulting in sucking dust. About 10% air tube install poorly.

Air filter Alert, Alert, Alert

Yet another alert o_O I'm just see, all to often, where engine Air Filter is installed improperly and rubber seal of filter has curled. How could that be. We just pop in a fasten down with 4 clips right. Well right. But if care is not taken during install, to seat lid on seal. The seal gets...

forum.ih8mud.com

I like baselining all fluids and lube propeller shafts & spiders. Also all rubber lines that are weeping, cracked or damage. In the 98-02 replace the PCV grommet.

Power steering is so over looked:

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks for all of this!

Radiator is new as of 2021 and air filter is brand new and installed correctly! I grabbed the VIN from the RH side of the motor – looks like it came out of a 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser.

Also, for the fun of it, here's the invoice of the engine rebuild from 2021. Did they miss anything they really should have done on this rebuild? Looks like a basic rebuild to me.

 

[seth]

but would love to know if there's anything else you guys think I should be keeping an eye on.

Heater tees? Don't even push on them with your thumb to 'test' them, until you have replacements on hand. If they original, they will likely crumble.

I would wipe off the high pressure PS hose and watch it for a while.

Hard to say on the starter. It seems they usually just flat-out fail, but I suppose they could get sluggish. Be sure to really clean the manifold-to-block interface well (carefully, with a pressure washer) before you remove the manifold. Very easy for sand/gravel to fall into the engine as you pull the manifold.

Took a few photos and it looks like the heater tees have already been done!

 

[OEMGUY0720]

That’s a good looking 100 you got. Welcome to the interesting world of torsion bars

 

[2001LC]

Going to do a wipe down of the PS hoses this coming week. I'm always hesitant to put any "sealant" products into these systems. I'm not seeing any significant shortage of power steering fluid, so it must be a really slow leak.

Fresh and sparkly and haven't had the failure to spin issue for 3 days – assuming either the starter problem is intermittent, or it was just an electrical issue that is now sorted out with the battery terminal cleaning.

E-Brake feels solid, but I need to see what the FSM procedure for actually spec-ing it out.

View attachment 3509245

I'll assume you use baking soda and water solution to neutralize acid (battery corrosion), to clean. The aftermarket clamps indicate, it had battery issues. Mostly likely corrosion and or overtightening battery clamps, Which aftermarket Negative is showing now, was overtighten. The aftermarket wire, indicates aftermarket toys installed. So watch for parasitic draw.

When battery corrosion, goes uncleaned to long. Corrosion (acid), does get into positive cable fuse block. So I'd inspect it internally.

 

[seth]

I'll assume you use baking soda and water solution to neutralize acid (battery corrosion), to clean. The aftermarket clamps indicate, it had battery issues. Mostly likely corrosion and or overtightening battery clamps, Which aftermarket Negative is showing now, was overtighten. The aftermarket wire, indicates aftermarket toys installed. So watch for parasitic draw.

When battery corrosion, goes uncleaned to long. Corrosion (acid), does get into positive cable fuse block. So I'd inspect it internally.

The guys at Lexus service did the work, so I’m not sure if they used baking soda and water or some other neutralizer. I’ll keep an eye on it from here though and do that if and when I see the development of any more buildup. Do you happen to have a photo of what the stock terminals look like? As for the aftermarket wires, those are heading to a relay and switch for some led floods. Eventually I’ll make an accessory block for that sort of thing.

Appreciate the help!

 

[2001LC]

To be safe, so paint and metal not damaged. I'd spray with braking soda water solution Or wet and sprinkle, the entire area.

OEM pos

OEM neg with baking soda solution. Blue is acid being naturized.

Aftermarket

 

[2001LC]

I should have mention. The positive post fuse block, is larger (like above) on newer LC/LX than yours.

 

[seth]

To be safe, so paint and metal not damaged. I'd spray with braking soda water solution Or wet and sprinkle, the entire area.

OEM pos
View attachment 3510116
OEM neg with baking soda solution. Blue is acid being naturized.



View attachment 3510118
Aftermarket
View attachment 3510115

Any chance you have links to these aftermarket battery connectors? Factory negative appears to be discontinued.

 

[Trapper50cal]

I want all of those slee goodies...I have military posts to put on but last time I checked slee, those post brackets were out of stock...

correction...it appears as though they've been replaced by the newer billet posts.

Battery - Slee Off Road

sleeoffroad.com

 

[2001LC]

Any chance you have links to these aftermarket battery connectors? Factory negative appears to be discontinued.

No sorry. Slee has some cool ones. I just went to parts store and custom fit what I could find.

Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem!

I've been on the look out for a fender for 3 months now, plus I need a couple interior pieces. Trust me when I say I cannot find a parts rig anywhere near Memphis. How would you inspect the slip yoke for wear or play? Just excessive movement laterally? Thanks 2001! Any play twisting or...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[seth]

Finally getting a few little things done.

• OEM positive terminal and cover
• Inner driver’s side door handle
• Remove unused suspension system pump and reservoir

 

[ChuckB]

Welcome! I can't believe how good your speaker cover looks with that mileage. Mine is thrashed...