- Thread starter
- #21
I know, right? This thing seems like it was babied. Pasadena truck for most of its life.
Long time Land Cruiser guy, first time LX470! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter seth
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
You guys weren't kidding... gotta love pulling off the intake to replace the starter. It took about 4.5 hours, and there were a number of connectors with broken tabs and a little dab of RTV. Luckily, they all felt pretty good, but if I start getting intermittent electrical issues, I know where to look first. I took a ton of pics, so might do a writeup for anyone else like me that would have like a step-by-step.
Mine started showing some hesitation in cold weather, so it was time. It had another reman in there, but no idea when that one was from.
Mine started showing some hesitation in cold weather, so it was time. It had another reman in there, but no idea when that one was from.
Intake manifold gasket is installed, white tab up.
The wire housing blocks. Can be purchase from Toyota and easily replaced. Add perfix to 90980- to number found on wire housing connector
Starter
98-05 Knock sensor
Cold weather slow crank, is not typically indication of a bad starter. Generally, it has more to do with low cranking AMPs. Like that of the group 24F and thick oil. Here in the Rockies, we like cranking AMPs of 27F batteries.
The wire housing blocks. Can be purchase from Toyota and easily replaced. Add perfix to 90980- to number found on wire housing connector
Starter
98-05 Knock sensor
Cold weather slow crank, is not typically indication of a bad starter. Generally, it has more to do with low cranking AMPs. Like that of the group 24F and thick oil. Here in the Rockies, we like cranking AMPs of 27F batteries.
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- Thread starter
- #24
Interesting, I don’t recall any white tab visible on either side of these, but these got reinstalled exactly as they had come out and didn’t have any issue with leaks, etc. before this project.
Any idea what the difference is with the “white tab up”? It’s all back together and running great so far, so I’ll just have to keep an eye on it and look out for indication of intake leaks.
Wire blocks: Plan on doing some of them in the future. All the ones that need replacing are accessible.
I misspoke — I meant that the starter solenoid was starting to regularly click a few times and then eventually fire. This problem was noticeably exacerbated in cold weather. All signs point to what many threads in the forum indicated as aging contacts.
- Thread starter
- #26
I understand that. What I’m saying is that for the last 20k+ miles this appears to have had the white tabs down, with no apparent negative results. So, I’m just curious if other people have experienced any sort of failure.
Additionally, on close inspection (besides the fore and aft position of the tabs that can go either way) it appears that the sandwiched layers that make up that gasket are equivalent thickness and character on both sides.
In any case, appreciate the feedback if anyone has $.02 about the orientation of those and whether or not it’s worthwhile to tear down to flip them over. Let ‘er rip!
Here’s how they were configured when I opened up the engine (and yes, PO had this engine rebuilt around 20k miles ago, so assuming that’s when these were installed this way)
And here’s right before I put things back together. Just matched it to the way I had seen it.
I've never, reused or install these gasket backward. So I've no first hand experience. Searching mud, may answer your question. No doubt, others in mud have installed white tabs down. You're probably okay. But, it would be good idea to test for vacuum leaks.
Personal, when I know or suspect I've an assembly issue. I tear it down again. But that's me. I work very hard, to take back to factory spec with factory parts. Setting up for the next 250K miles.
For what it's worth. I use the FSM (Factory Service manual) as my guide. During assembly I've always, two tools with me. A torque wrench and marker pen. I mark ever nut and bolt after I've torqued.
Personal, when I know or suspect I've an assembly issue. I tear it down again. But that's me. I work very hard, to take back to factory spec with factory parts. Setting up for the next 250K miles.
For what it's worth. I use the FSM (Factory Service manual) as my guide. During assembly I've always, two tools with me. A torque wrench and marker pen. I mark ever nut and bolt after I've torqued.
