LANDTANK fan clutch for S/C 1FZ

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Here is the blue (top) vs the orange(bottom):

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1436024386.133133.webp


ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1436024398.989027.webp
 
So I measured 3/4" gap between the tip of the blade and the shroud

If you guys are just measuring at top dead center, you might want to measure it at the bottom also. My rig has a much larger gap at the top than it does at the bottom. As far as I can tell, the motor mounts are in good shape, so no sag from them. YRMV John
 
Here is the blue (top) vs the orange(bottom):

View attachment 1102027

View attachment 1102028


thx so much for these! and thx rick for the measurement. Looks like to me the stock blade curves backward and definetly sits rearward of the shroud much more than the flat 3fe fan. To me it seems the stock fan would "scoop" air better than the 3fe fan. Looks like it also sits closer to the shroud and sits further outward of the shroud. Hopefully I won't have to mod the shroud I have because of my aftermarket radiator, but we will see.
 
After speaking to CDAN in Moab this year on his impressions, i ordered one of these Landtank orange fan clutches, and went back to the stock fan.
My initial impressions is it is running much cooler staying around 180 vs the 190-195 the scan guage showed it running at before . To be fair, my Blue Fan clutch was not working well anymore (and not really that old), but this new Orange one from Rick seems to be a definite upgrade on my SC rig....

I will get it out a bit more in the heat and see if it continues to have the same great results i am seeing now :) ... but to this point i am real happy!
 
Alright its time for me to chime in on this thread. Dan and I got the first two units but because I had so much going on I couldn't get to this project until last weekend. I changed out the coolant (again, less than 38k on it), changed the water pump with an actual OEM (old one was an AISIN with the names ground off), added the Orange Hub and replaced the fan shroud.

After re-reading this thread it seems that the fan discussion caught me off guard. I read that the original 1FZ was preferred, not required. Wrong! The original 1FZ fan is REQUIRED!!!! I learned that the hard way but got it all sorted out.

Immediately after installing the water pump (which had 38k on it) and replacing the fan clutch (which was a blue hub from Amazon modified with 30k cst with less than 15k on it) and adding back the fan shroud, I noticed a completely different fan engagement. The "roar" cycles differently and seems to stay on far longer than the modified blue hub. My blue hub seems to have stopped engaging when hot. Only way I can describe it based on fan sound.

Right after finishing up the install it was time to leave for a camping trip to Sequoia. 700 miles round trip later and both directions of the Grapevine and both directions of the 180 into Kings Canyon and the engine temps never reached about 193º... until I got a PO302 but that is completely unrelated and is totally my own fault. Even when I did get the PO302 my temps only climbed to 203º and even then only on the slow, long climbs in traffic on the 180 highway.

Keep in mind it was 109º when I left my house. It was between 90-95º in Sequoia with all hills. It was 108º on the Grapevine with well over 30 cars on the side of the road overheating. It was still 101º by the time I got home. My temps STILL never got above 193º.

My typical, driving around town, temps are currently 183º and sometimes peaks to 186º. One the frwy I tend to drop to 179-181º. Again, its over 100º ambient where I live in West Hills. To say this fan clutch mod is a winner is a complete understatement. To anyone that balks at the price, go take a look at my overheating thread. This is a winner and I seriously could not be any happier.

Take away notes for others:
• You will need to use the original 1FZ fan
• You will need the original water pump studs
• A new OEM water pump comes with the required studs
• You do NOT use the SC spacer
• The gap between the pump and clutch is for the pulley so don't freak out
• The 1FZ fan is about 2mm from the SC tensioner pulley which is ok since the fan flexes toward the radiator
• There is plenty of room between the fan and radiator...and I have a Ron Davis rad
• The water pump gasket only goes on one way
• Do NOT use any sealant on the gasket
• Put a piece of cardboard behind your radiator to keep from mucking the fins
• Make sure you have your SC wrench handy

Thanks Rick! :cheers:

image-jpg.1100852
image-jpg.1100885
image-jpg.1100895
image-jpg.1101027
image-jpg.1101029
image-jpg.1101034
FullSizeRender-1.webp
 
Last edited:
I have to echo again what NLXTACY is saying, "I am very pleased" with the reduced running temps I am seeing with the stock fan and Orange fan clutch!
And while not cheap, the Orange Fan Clutch is worth it to me as well, to eliminate the frustration I was having overheating at times.
Especially in the high Mtn passes of Colorado, and in Moab.
Can't wait to test it in the passes now(maybe this weekend), and report back!
If you have an SC'd rig that has been overheating at times, I give Ricks Orange Fan clutch along with the Stock Fan, two thumbs up!

I have been running an early style stock brass radiator in my rig, since the stock plastic one died...
 
Just got back from the high mountain passes in Colorado and Moab, and ended up having to blast the interior heater several times to keep temps under 205. I need to sign up for a set of these....
 
Great mod for the SC crew...love the bolt-on type solutions.
 
Just ordered mine, great research and nice product. I'm fired up to install it!
 
He takes a diesel clutch that has a "stem" that is ~8mm taller than stock and machines out the inside of that stem to allow it to fit a 1FZ water pump hub. The net result is the stock blade gets pulled far enough back from the radiator so that it will not contact it and just far enough forward to clear the blower drive components.

Can the same thing be accomplished by changing spacer thickness?
 
Has been done. Don't know if it spaces fan closer to core than Landtanks diesel conversion.
 
The problem as I see it with trying to shim a stock clutch to the same position as this modified diesel clutch is the amount of Dowell engagement. The clutches are centered in the water pump via a Dowell or pin on the water pump .This ensures that the fan will run true and not excessively wear on the water pump bearings. So I decided to maintain that engagementt depth as spec'd by Toyota
 
I need to also chime in and say this is a great product. It solved my SC-based overheating issues quite nicely. I did, however, need to stay with the SC fan because I simply couldn't fit the original fan in there without ripping up my radiator.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom