- Thread starter
- #21
Seat-of-the-pants data is it moves a lot more air. I need to hitch up the Kimberley and do some low-speed pulling with it.
LANDTANK fan clutch for S/C 1FZ (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cruiserdan
- Start date
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Cue the turbo crowd raving about the superiority of turbos and intercoolers...
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No overheating issues but if it makes gettin' in there easier (the long bolts required due to the spacer make it very tight and frustrating to work on) then I'm interested. Thanks!
No overheating issues but if it makes gettin' in there easier (the long bolts required due to the spacer make it very tight and frustrating to work on) then I'm interested. Thanks!
I can agree that my s.c engine runs hotter. My 93 s.c 1fz temps run great but when I tow with it in summer the temp can rise sometimes. I know this can happen with any vehicle towing but the fan could be issue for proper cooling and I can personally say to replace the fan clutch on a s.c 1fz with the radiator fan shroud is a real pain in the butt. I'll have to do this mod as I told myself I'd never remove any part of the fan again because reinstalling it was a nightmare.
So where can we get one of the Orange fan clutches? I thought AJIK overland exchange was the landtank distributor but did see anything on his site.
Right now they are in "shake down" testing. I wanted to make sure there was proper clearances and try to get an idea on any performance gains as well. After the first of the year I'll have a batch ready to go.
So you guys are advocating upgrading the fan rather than running the "SC" fan that comes with the install package?
I have been keeping my setup stock for now just to see how it performs. I never see 200 water temps unless i'm running a long, steep pass in CO. This makes me wonder why the swap would be better unless like you say it moves more air.
I have been keeping my setup stock for now just to see how it performs. I never see 200 water temps unless i'm running a long, steep pass in CO. This makes me wonder why the swap would be better unless like you say it moves more air.
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- #28
When you say "stock" are you refering to the ringed fan that comes in the kit?
- Thread starter
- #29
I've got just over 100 miles of surface street and expressway so far. No indications of interference. I will be pulling the blower off next week to send it in to PSE for a checkup. It has just over 113,000 miles on it and I want to be sure it is in top shape for more testing.
Yes Cdan, the ringed one that comes in the kit.
- Thread starter
- #31
The only reason that fan was selected for the kit is because it was an off-the-shelf Toyota fan that would fit on the clutch and not hit the radiator. It was NOT selected for it's performance properties. You should see one in it's original V6 pickup configuration. It has a very unusual shroud to go along with it in order for it to get proper air flow.
In other words, the ringed fan is a compromise at best.
In other words, the ringed fan is a compromise at best.
we haven't had any problems with the 3FE fan in the three years we've had the 80 and the one year in the LX 
inkpot has been running his 3FE fan for even longer
inkpot has been running his 3FE fan for even longer
we haven't had any problems with the 3FE fan in the three years we've had the 80 and the one year in the LX
inkpot has been running his 3FE fan for even longer
I see in your sig line you are a member of copper state Cruisers so I'll assume you live in Arizona.
One thing you need to understand is that the thermal conductivity of air decreases as it's humidity increases. So while Arizona might have higher than average temperatures it also has lower than average humidity. So while it is a hot environment it is also the best one for cooling as well.
The worst environment would be Miami or New England with near 100% humidity and temps over 100* at times.
I thought humidity increases the density of the air, carrying away more heat from the radiator.
The desert, with low humidity, would be the worst for radiator cooling.
Humidity=moisture
moisture=water
water can absorb more heat than air. So, high humidity air makes for better heat transfer than low humidity air.
a 100/100 day would be far better for radiator cooling than a 0/100 desert condition day.
Firsttoy you are correct, Rick is only correct in evaporative cooling where moisture has to evaporate off and does so much less in very humid areas. Since the radiator is not an evaporative system the humidity can absorb more heat from the fins as it passes over them.
But the effect between a 100% humidity day and 0% at the same temperature is only like a 0.3% difference.
But the effect between a 100% humidity day and 0% at the same temperature is only like a 0.3% difference.
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my basic understanding is that while air with a higher humidity level can store more heat the rate of tranfer is also effected and slowed by it.
ChaseTruck
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Just as info, we've also got a S/C'd 80 in Baton Rouge; that one's got a blue clutch w/ 25k fluid and the 3FE fan. No issues there as well, even on the hottest and most humid days e.g. in August. But, in all fairness, that truck hasn't been asked to do any real work, like tow, or even drive uphill...
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I'm in.
TrickyT
Hate that mud...
That's true, but humidity plays a small effect in the rate of heat transfer (= thermal conductivity). Here's a graph of the thermal conductivity of air as a function of temperature and humidity. From this you can see, for example, that at 200*F (= 93*C) the thermal conductivity of air @ 0% humidity is 0.031 versus that of air @100% humidity is 0.025. So a difference of 0.006 for a 0% to 100% humidity change. For comparison, the thermal conductivity of brass (think radiator material) is 110 and aluminum is 237.
so there is a loss of @ 20% then.
The radiator thing isn't as clear cut as you stated. While correct for the raw material, additional loss in transfer in brass construction is present from using solder to manufacture the core and thicker wall thickness of the tubes do to the softness of material. Most will conceded that a high quality brass radiator will out perform an aluminum one however the cost to produce such a piece doesn't make them a cost effective solution.
That's why we have seen a shift to aluminum radiators.
The radiator thing isn't as clear cut as you stated. While correct for the raw material, additional loss in transfer in brass construction is present from using solder to manufacture the core and thicker wall thickness of the tubes do to the softness of material. Most will conceded that a high quality brass radiator will out perform an aluminum one however the cost to produce such a piece doesn't make them a cost effective solution.
That's why we have seen a shift to aluminum radiators.
