Builds Land Crusher Build Thread - V2 (1 Viewer)

[jht3]

Cleaning up all the parts while the 3rds are getting gear + eatons installed. Looks like the inner ring of the outer bearing spun on the spindle.

Two new spindles (P/N 43401-60081) are on their way from the UAE. These new ones should have the updated spindle bushing with the integrated needle roller bearing

mine look very similar. what moved you to buy new ones and deem these no longer serviceable? other than knowing they are brand new. i've been debating buying new ones, but other than some slight discoloration and polished surface, i don't see or feel anything else wrong. with properly set torque, i can't see why they won't still work. am i missing something?

Slapped this recovery point on from a vendor that shall not be named (Oh look, more powder coat flaking off....TT...)
I coated it in some Steelit (if you guys don't know this stuff yet, it's great). Surface should be prepped at a minimum with some 36 grit sand paper.

this is making me feel good about skipping the PC when i bought those recovery points, and primering and painting them myself.

your truck continues to make mine jealous. keep it up!

 

[OffRoadScott]

I am still terminally single, but my land cruiser is pretty cool:
View attachment 3472239

Nitro 4.88’s are at Ayer’s machine shop in Phx getting the REM treatment per Zuk’s recommendation

Interested in getting my 4.88 done prior to install. But need the lockers and install kits prior to jumping into a job this big.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Interested in getting my 4.88 done prior to install. But need the lockers and install kits prior to jumping into a job this big.

Depending on what lockers you get, I might have two sierra gear install kits I’m not using. I’ll know here at the end of the week

 

[OffRoadScott]

Depending on what lockers you get, I might have two sierra gear install kits I’m not using. I’ll know here at the end of the week

Plan on going the same route you did, Eaton. My father in law runs ARB and has nothing but issues with his air lines.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Dog is terrible at holding torque wrench

 

[TomEf]

Dog is terrible at holding torque wrench

She's trying her best!

 

[Somebodyelse5]

She's trying her best!

This thread is no longer about cruiser, it's about dog:

Protecting tires:

Solar Charging:

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Don't be dumb, replace your knuckle studs. For some reason I ordered all new cones, washers, and nuts... but not the studs.

Here are some photos of the REM super polished Nitro 4.88 gears and Eaton E-Lockers. Zuk, the yota gear whisperer himself, did these for me up in Prescott, AZ. Definitely worth the drive up. He installed all OEM bearings, didn't end up using the Sierra Gear install kits. You get a ton of pictures during install and all the details of your assembly, he's a really cool guy.

I ended up installing the 3rds with Red Toyota FIPG instead of the paper gaskets. Seems that the front diff housing can flex and lead to some leaking and FIPG is a bit more forgiving.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Tom Woods double cardan drive shaft is installed. I called them up on 11/9 and they had the shaft to my door on 11/12. Super fast and super helpful on the phone.

They built me a 32.875" shaft (flange to flange) with 60x60mm flanges and Spicer S5-1320X non greaseable U Joints.

The flange on the double cardan joint is about 11mm thick and factory joint is about 7.5mm thick. Would have been nice to have this machined down as the transfer case flange uses studs and are too short to use the lock washers in the OEM setup. I used loctite, torqued them with a torque adapter, and put a witness mark on them.... we'll see how it plays out. It doesn't appear that there is enough space between the dust seal and the flange to remove the studs and run the longer bolts that come with the shaft.

(*** Insert photo***)

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I am working on the wiring for the lockers, using the factory switch. I know a lot of folks want to be able to lock the front without locking the rear, and the only real compelling arguments I found had something to do with snow... well, I live in the desert for a reason, you won't see me in snow smiling. It's not a rock crawler and I am real picky about a bunch of ugly, non-oem rock switches on my dash. If this locker switch keeps me from getting through a trail, I probably shouldn't have been on that trail anyways.

Following this awesome thread by @Malahki

Harrop E-Locker using OEM Switch and Dash Lights in a HDJ81 / FJ80

I decided to put this thread together for anybody wanting to wire Harrop E-Lockers into an HDJ81 or FJ80 using the OEM locker switch and locker dash lights. I found most of the info spread out over a couple of other 'Harrop" threads and wanted to put it all together in one place and add some...

forum.ih8mud.com

I found the locker switch plug dangling behind my dash, just behind the dash speaker, to the right of the fuse panel and OBD2 port:

In the passenger kick panel, I found the grey D5 plug for the factory locker ECM (this is where you will pull the wires to make connections with the male terminated 'repair' wires:

Adding relays here. Also mounted the Eaton relays on some open studs as well. These studs are M6 x 1.0 if you want to use them, just buy a nut.

Sniff-Spection

She identified a leaking sunroof, the carpet is wet!

New bulb and socket for the factory locker holes, testing on the bench:

To be continued.....

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Here are the wiring diagrams I used from @Malahki with my notes included.

Front Locker:

Rear Locker:

Locker ECM in the pass kick panel:

I mounted both Eaton relays and the additional 4 pin relays in the passenger kick panel, there are multiple m6 x 1.0 studs that I was able to use. I am working on cleaning this up before I button up the interior. I try really hard to make wiring look good, but It never seems to look decent:

 

[Somebodyelse5]

*Reserved for locker wiring*

 

[Somebodyelse5]

While the axles were out, pulled the birfs apart for a clean and an inspection. They looked like birfs. I swapped the drivers side and pass side at the last knuckle job and after about 5 years they look happy where they are.

Disassembled with a long pipe and some bangin'... was lucky enough not to shear the clips this time Might be worth grabbing a set ahead of this job, just in case. P/N: 90521-34005 and they are a couple bucks each

I saw a guy on youtube do this with grease in a bag... man it's nice! Maybe I should start frosting cakes:

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Here is a real good video for determining if your Eaton E-Lockers are working. They don't make any noise and require the ring gear to rotate a bit to slide the pins in:


Here's a video that shows how it works:


Just did this and verified that my front and rear lockers are functioning

Dash lights and factory switch are working too

 

[Somebodyelse5]

While I had the door sill covers out I noticed a fair bit of water on both sides. Thankfully the one time it rained in Phoenix I happened to notice the leak.
I pulled the sunroof out, making sure to destroy the brittle garnishes, and brought the glass into the garage to do the inner tube seal mod.

Sunroof weatherstriping

I believe the general consensus for sealing the sunroof, when leaking, is to replace the entire sunroof assembly. I found a few part numbers online. 63252-60010 63254-60010 They are listed as sunroof weatherstriping. Would these not seal a leaking sunroof? I’d like to not but an entire...

forum.ih8mud.com

As you know, the sunroof seal on the 80 is NOT replaceable, you'd need to replace the entire glass to get the seal. What you can do though, is add some rubber between the sunroof frame and the seal. with the top of the sunroof on the bench, you can spread the seal and slide in a strip of inner tube that's about 1/4" thick and 26" in diameter. Lucky I have a whole bunch of 26" tubes laying around.

Gave the seals a good scrub down with simple green. I use simple green on RC Car race tires, it makes them sticky and brings some life into the rubber, seems like it worked here too. The seals were real dirty:

Also cleaned the roof seal area, it was real dirty too, and cleaned some dirt out of the sunroof drain gutters:

 

[Somebodyelse5]

New TRE's went on, I got brave and I think I managed to set my toe correctly following this thread:

Alignment Setting Toe

On the ’80, toe is the only thing easily adjustable. It can be knocked out from wheeling, impact, so should be occasionally checked. For something that looks deceptively simple, vehicle handling is a complicated subject, there are great books on the subject, this will be the simple version...

forum.ih8mud.com

Two chunks of angle iron, marked 30" and center. Mounted to rotor, with center under hub, leveled with a bubble:

I started out with ~ 1/8 of tow OUT (rear narrower than the front). Set it to just under 1/8" of toe IN.

Still need to set the relay rod to get the steering straight and reset the knuckle stops, that's a project for tomorrow.


I had more issues today with knuckle studs, it appears that I let me inner gorilla out when I was popping the cones and ovalized a few of the cone seats in the flanges... my guess is that it's putting an oblique load on the fasteners and leading the threads to fail (not shear like the original failure the other day). I got everything buttoned up, but left the two suspect studs on the passenger side "super snug". I ordered new flanges and more OEM studs, we'll see if that solves my stud issue... Drivers side is good to go:

I had to remove a cross bar from my prinsu rack, and subsequently my awning, when I pulled the sunroof. I am seriously unimpressed with the hardware on this rack... It's been through maybe 3 rain events since I installed in, 50% of the time this rack has been under a car cover and has lived it's entire life (about a year and a half) in Phoenix...

Cheese grade with bad coating:

I wire brushed and lubed, still galled and failed:

I'm not sure what I'll ultimately do with the roof rack and the awning.

 

[OffRoadScott]

New TRE's went on, I got brave and I think I managed to set my toe correctly following this thread:

Alignment Setting Toe

On the ’80, toe is the only thing easily adjustable. It can be knocked out from wheeling, impact, so should be occasionally checked. For something that looks deceptively simple, vehicle handling is a complicated subject, there are great books on the subject, this will be the simple version...

forum.ih8mud.com

Two chunks of angle iron, marked 30" and center. Mounted to rotor, with center under hub, leveled with a bubble:
View attachment 3489244
View attachment 3489243

I started out with ~ 1/8 of tow OUT (rear narrower than the front). Set it to just under 1/8" of toe IN.
View attachment 3489248

Still need to set the relay rod to get the steering straight and reset the knuckle stops, that's a project for tomorrow.


I had more issues today with knuckle studs, it appears that I let me inner gorilla out when I was popping the cones and ovalized a few of the cone seats in the flanges... my guess is that it's putting an oblique load on the fasteners and leading the threads to fail (not shear like the original failure the other day). I got everything buttoned up, but left the two suspect studs on the passenger side "super snug". I ordered new flanges and more OEM studs, we'll see if that solves my stud issue... Drivers side is good to go:
View attachment 3489250


I had to remove a cross bar from my prinsu rack, and subsequently my awning, when I pulled the sunroof. I am seriously unimpressed with the hardware on this rack... It's been through maybe 3 rain events since I installed in, 50% of the time this rack has been under a car cover and has lived it's entire life (about a year and a half) in Phoenix...

Cheese grade with bad coating:
View attachment 3489251

I wire brushed and lubed, still galled and failed:
View attachment 3489253

I'm not sure what I'll ultimately do with the roof rack and the awning.

Sucks to hear about the roof rack. I am hoping that Jeff Westcott takes me up on my offer to allow them to use the 80 for R&D. I am really impressed with a lot of their products and looking at their low pro rack for the 5th Gen 4runner.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

What else would I be doing on Turkey day? I'm sick with a cold and have been disowned by family, so I am finishing up the 80. First highway run and it feels GREAT. The new TRE's and Trunnion bearings took up the shimmy I was feeling on curves, the new DC drive shaft took away the vibration I was feeling in the floor, and the gears make a huge difference in drivability.

Made a little sheet to calculate my new speeds. 37's and 4.88's get's your speedo indicating close to factory. This is close enough to ignore the difference, well within the precision and accuracy of a 5mph demarcated instrument!

 

[Somebodyelse5]

New TRE's went on, I got brave and I think I managed to set my toe correctly following this thread:

Alignment Setting Toe

On the ’80, toe is the only thing easily adjustable. It can be knocked out from wheeling, impact, so should be occasionally checked. For something that looks deceptively simple, vehicle handling is a complicated subject, there are great books on the subject, this will be the simple version...

forum.ih8mud.com

Two chunks of angle iron, marked 30" and center. Mounted to rotor, with center under hub, leveled with a bubble:
View attachment 3489244
View attachment 3489243

I started out with ~ 1/8 of tow OUT (rear narrower than the front). Set it to just under 1/8" of toe IN.
View attachment 3489248

Still need to set the relay rod to get the steering straight and reset the knuckle stops, that's a project for tomorrow.


I had more issues today with knuckle studs, it appears that I let me inner gorilla out when I was popping the cones and ovalized a few of the cone seats in the flanges... my guess is that it's putting an oblique load on the fasteners and leading the threads to fail (not shear like the original failure the other day). I got everything buttoned up, but left the two suspect studs on the passenger side "super snug". I ordered new flanges and more OEM studs, we'll see if that solves my stud issue... Drivers side is good to go:
View attachment 3489250


I had to remove a cross bar from my prinsu rack, and subsequently my awning, when I pulled the sunroof. I am seriously unimpressed with the hardware on this rack... It's been through maybe 3 rain events since I installed in, 50% of the time this rack has been under a car cover and has lived it's entire life (about a year and a half) in Phoenix...

Cheese grade with bad coating:
View attachment 3489251

I wire brushed and lubed, still galled and failed:
View attachment 3489253

I'm not sure what I'll ultimately do with the roof rack and the awning.

An update on this. Prinsu sent me a new crossbar and hardware for that crossbar. No resolution on the rest of the hardware which will absolutely gall and fail when i need to pull them apart.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

@ncavi10 takes the cake for the best xmas gift of all time: