Builds Land Crusher Build Thread - V2 (1 Viewer)

Somebodyelse5

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I need to build the main ground to negative terminal wire on my rig. You’re gonna be my coach!
Happy to help! It's really simple, and the tools you need aren't real expensive. Cable is a bit pricey though
 
Electrical Cables

Somebodyelse5

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Here is what I'm doing, just some notes:
1646367774792.png


I added an inch or two on some of the wires based on the routing. Will confirm the lengths above.

As of right now, I am not going to make a new cable going to the alternator, I don't want to deal with the fusible links and from what I understand, having a bigger + wire behind those fusible links isn't going to make a big difference. A lot of folks seem to "add" a wire direct from the Alternator to the (+) terminal of the battery, but that bypasses the fusible link and that's not good.
 

FMC80

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Here is what I'm doing, just some notes:
View attachment 2942611

I added an inch or two on some of the wires based on the routing. Will confirm the lengths above.

As of right now, I am not going to make a new cable going to the alternator, I don't want to deal with the fusible links and from what I understand, having a bigger + wire behind those fusible links isn't going to make a big difference. A lot of folks seem to "add" a wire direct from the Alternator to the (+) terminal of the battery, but that bypasses the fusible link and that's not good.
I looked at this post and blacked out. Where am I?
 

Somebodyelse5

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Come on over, you and your fam will have a place to stay for "free"...as long as you help me wire s*** up on the cruiser!
Feed me musibi and kalbi, i’m in :grinpimp:
 

Somebodyelse5

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If you are on the edge about upgrading your ground cables... definitely do it. Noticed that it started faster, idles a bit smoother, and I am seeing a voltage increase of about .5 to 1V when running various electronics.

My lengths were all a bit long, but nothing go in the way, for the 1/0 cables I would go about 2" shorter than my dimensions.

I used 3/8" lugs for both the 4awg and 1/0 awg cables. For the block stud, I had to open the hole up (I forget what bit I used), and then I bent it 90 deg in the vice (that location has a 90 degree lug from the factory). You can see the bent lug in the picture:
1646970106256.png



Got all of the wiring and the VO switch finished up tonight. All that's left is routing the wire for the switch plate.
1646970382653.png

1646970409867.png



Doggo helping get them aimed:
1646970432492.png
 
Rock Lights

Somebodyelse5

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I had a set of @Ramathorn15's rock lights on my 100 and they were awesome, so figured I would see what I could come up with for the 80. Goal here is to have lights that I can turn on with a switch AND turn on when the doors open (using the dome light as a signal).

This may not be the most efficient way to do this, so feel free to chime in with better ideas. Here's my doodling and the bench testing set up. I need to dig into the wiring diagram and determine where the first relay will live, but I plan to tap the dome light + signal to trip the relay when the doors open. The second relay will be on my VO Switch block so I can turn them on with the switch.
1647620849690.png

Note: I think I am using single pole, double throw (SPDT) Type B relays. But this isn't really critical.


mocked up:
1647620877947.png


I am planning on running these LUX lights. They are magnetic and don't require any mounting brackets. Still debating how many to get, thinking 6 should do the trick.
 

Somebodyelse5

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I recut a bunch of TRD livery stripes out of Avery Dennison vinyl, whatever I have left after the CSC meeting tonight I'll send out to whoever wants a set. Just PM your mailing address and I will drop them in an envelope, free fifty free.
1647621121619.png
 
Lighting

Somebodyelse5

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I replaced just about all of the exterior and interior factory lights with LED's from Diode Dynamics last night. It turns out you DO need a load resistor for your blinkers, to avoid hyperflash as the LED's draw so little current. I have these on the way and will report back once I get them installed and working. Otherwise, everything else is plug and play.

Light LocationQTYFactory LightColorNotes
Brake lights21157RedDD XP80 (polarity matters during install)
Reverse Lights21156cool whiteDD XPR
License Plate2194cool whiteDD HP5
Rear Markers2194RedDD HP5 (get red, or they will look pink)
Rear Blinkers21156amberSuperbright LEDS - 1156-A27-T Needs flasher relay replaced
Front Blinker21156amberSuperbright LEDS - 1156-A27-T Needs flasher relay replaced
Blinker Flasher Relay1--Superbright LEDS - CF13GL-02: 3 Pin Black European Flasher
Front corner2194amberDD HP5
High Beam29005cool whiteDiode Dynamics SL1 - Requires trimming of retention ring
Low Beam29006cool whiteDiode Dynamics SL1 - Requires trimming of retention ring
Doors4194warm whiteDD HP5 3000k
Map Light131mmwarm white3000k - DD kit comes with the correct adapter to mount dome and map
Dome light231mmwarm white3000k - DD kit comes with the correct adapter to mount dome and map

I really dislike the bright 5000k+ interior LED's most folks use... so all of the ready to go kits were off the table. DD sells the interior lights in a few different colors, I want with "warm white" (3000k) and am real happy with how it looks inside.

All of this I ordered directly through DD, they are nice people.
1647789396469.png


I'll try to get some pictures tonight


EDIT:
- 1157 switchbacks will not work in the front blinkers without a bunch of additional wiring. You'd need a 1157 socket and to add a wire from the running light.
- I returned the diode dinamics blinker lights and got the cheaper bulbs from superbright LED's and the replacement relay to eliminate hyperflash of the blinkers. (this is a better option than adding the load simulators at each corner).
 
Last edited:

FMC80

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I replaced just about all of the exterior and interior factory lights with LED's from Diode Dynamics last night. It turns out you DO need a load resistor for your blinkers, to avoid hyperflash as the LED's draw so little current. I have these on the way and will report back once I get them installed and working. Otherwise, everything else is plug and play.

Light LocationQTYFactory LightColorNotes
Brake lights21157RedDD XP80 (polarity matters during install)
Reverse Lights21156cool whiteDD XPR
License Plate2194cool whiteDD HP5
Rear Markers2194RedDD HP5 (get red, or they will look pink)
Rear Blinkers21156cool whiteDD XPR - Needs load simulator
Front Blinker21156 / 1157amberHP24 - Needs load simulator (switch back, so they run white normally)
Front corner2194amberDD HP5
High Beam29005cool whiteDiode Dynamics SL1 - Requires trimming of retention ring
Low Beam29006cool whiteDiode Dynamics SL1 - Requires trimming of retention ring
Doors4194warm whiteDD HP5 3000k
Map Light231mmwarm white3000k - DD kit comes with the correct adapter to mount dome and map
Dome light131mmwarm white3000k - DD kit comes with the correct adapter to mount dome and map

I really dislike the bright 5000k+ interior LED's most folks use... so all of the ready to go kits were off the table. DD sells the interior lights in a few different colors, I want with "warm white" (3000k) and am real happy with how it looks inside.

All of this I ordered directly through DD, they are nice people.
View attachment 2957646

I'll try to get some pictures tonight

Nice work providing all the info for us. I like Diode Dynamics; I read most of their products are made in the USA. I think that’s worth paying more for their products.
 
Roof Rack Delete

Somebodyelse5

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With the Prinsu sale going on, I decided to order a rack :) Should be here in the next week or two. I'll be deleting the factory rack and since I don't plan on dropping the headliner right now, I'll fill the holes with some bolts. Here is what I ordered from McMaster Carr:

1647889013400.png

For those unfamiliar with the magic and wonder that IS McMaster Carr, the 9####### is the P/N and it's searchable on their site AND they have drawings and CAD models available for free.

1647889104099.png

I ordered the M10 washer as it has an OD of 20mm, so it will extend just outside of the flange of the bolt (the 19.1mm DIA) and the ID should clear the slight protrusion from threaded insert in the roof. I ordered a M5 size as well just in case. I ordered a full box of 50, so if these work and anyone needs them, shoot me a PM. I think I can send them in a normal letter envelope.

I guessed at the 12mm bolt length, this seems to be plenty. You could go shorter or longer, but 12mm seems to do the trick.

I also ordered some tapered rubber trim for the lower edge of the roof rack where it mates with the drip rial valley. I don't want metal on body and this cross section should help it stay in place.
1647889447988.png



1647983541710.png

Pictures of the test fit, ID of M10 washer clears the protrusion of the threadsert:
1647983574889.png


While the OD of the washer sits just outside the OD of the flange:
1647983591347.png


I am going to install all 8 with a dab of RTV in the threads and a dab at the root of the threads, under the head of the bolt. That should give the threads a nice coating and fill any of the gaps

1647983562813.png
 
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PNWTreeOctopus

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With the Prinsu sale going on, I decided to order a rack :) Should be here in the next week or two. I'll be deleting the factory rack and since I don't plan on dropping the headliner right now, I'll fill the holes with some bolts. Here is what I ordered from McMaster Carr, I will confirm sizes and post pictures once everything is installed:

View attachment 2958963
For those unfamiliar with the magic and wonder that IS McMaster Carr, the 9####### is the P/N and it's searchable on their site AND they have drawings and CAD models available for free.

View attachment 2958964
I ordered the M10 washer as it has an OD of 20mm, so it will extend just outside of the flange of the bolt (the 19.1mm DIA) and the ID should clear the slight protrusion from threaded insert in the roof. I ordered a M5 size as well just in case. I ordered a full box of 50, so if these work and anyone needs them, shoot me a PM. I think I can send them in a normal letter envelope.

I guessed at the 12mm bolt length, will report back on sizing but from the research I did this should work just fine with a 1-2mm thick rubber washer.

I also ordered some tapered rubber trim for the lower edge of the roof rack where it mates with the drip rial valley. I don't want metal on body and this cross section should help it stay in place.
View attachment 2958968



Once I get everything delivered and installed I will post some pictures and confirm the sizes of all the parts :grinpimp:
Excellent Excellent tech. I’m curious if this will de I’m curious if this will delete the center ribs that so many of us are stuck with. Mine gather moss and dirt and I want them gone.
 

Somebodyelse5

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Excellent Excellent tech. I’m curious if this will de I’m curious if this will delete the center ribs that so many of us are stuck with. Mine gather moss and dirt and I want them gone.
I'll definitely take a look while I'm poking around the roof. Wasn't planning on getting rid of the rails, but it may be the same setup with a different sized bolt.
 

PNWTreeOctopus

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I'll definitely take a look while I'm poking around the roof. Wasn't planning on getting rid of the rails, but it may be the same setup with a different sized bolt.
I assume they are different sized. Wits has a kit similar to your intended solution and I believe it will not delete the ribs. If I could run a front runner table clone I’d be very excited.
 

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