1997 FZJ80 Introduction/Build Thread Rhode Island (1 Viewer)

[colinm]

Hello mud h8ers!

I'm Colin. I come from the West Coast originally, calling Oregon home, although I grew up in Northern California a lot of my life as well. But now I live in New England, Rhode Island specifically. I just retired from the Army a few months ago, I'm 40 and have nothing better to do than work on my Land Cruiser. I've got a family too that tags along on my adventures.

I also work as a guide for Northeast Adventure Company (hello AJ, I know you're in here), so if you're interested in some guided overlanding in the Northeast or in some off-road recovery training, please feel free to shoot me a message (hope that's allowed, not trying to advertise, it's just worth mentioning and relevant to my build).

I have some history with working on vehicles. I started on motorcycles. After one of my deployments to Afghanistan I bought a Triumph motorcycle. I then had no money to fix the Triumph motorcycle, and was constantly broke. Also, the motorcycle was constantly broke. So I got to learn how to fix motorcycles. That progressed to my first gen Tacoma eventually breaking down because I didn't have the money or know-how to maintain it properly at the time. Then one day I picked up a FSM for the thing and just started ripping it apart. Loved that truck, but in Hawaii the frame failed the safety inspection and there was no coming back from that. No way a company was going to ship it for me back to the mainland. So I had to let it go, but I got a 4Runner. Built that out for overlanding/off-roading. Then when that was getting too beat up the wife said I needed to buy a s***box. And, as a member of the finer things club, I don't do s***boxes very well, so here I am.

Now, on to the important stuff! My New Land Cruiser! Bought it off Marketplace in November out of New York. Some rust but no soft spots on the frame. Frame is very solid. More on that later. 2 owners. Pretty well taken care of. Good maintenance history. Triple-locked, although I'm kind of wishing it wasn't right now. The rear locker won't engage, but I'll get to that later as well. It drives great! Other than the suspension being shot. The springs and shocks were replaced about 75,000 miles ago with OEM. And the head gasket was replaced about 10,000 miles ago.

I have done EXHAUSTIVE searching on this website. Unfortunately a lot of the info on here is outdated. A lot of the vendors have gone out of vendors, links are bad, etc., so if I ask questions that have been asked before, please excuse me, but the answers may no longer actually be relevant.

The good:

• Engine runs great
• Windows work
• Sunroof works, doesn't leak
• No rust holes
• No body rust

The bad:

• Need to do a rust clean-up. I've read into the deep dives and understand this is probably a futile effort. I'm going to do the best I can without killing myself on this. The transmission cross-member looks really bad, as does the rear cross-member. I plan to chop the rear cross-member off to do a high clearance bumper. That solves that problem. The transmission crossmember may be a candidate for removal. We'll see once I get the thing on stands how badly I want to do this.
• 2 check engine codes, ABS and airbag codes:
  • P0401: EGR. Either clean out or delete. Probably delete.
  • P0171: This just popped up yesterday so I haven't done much searching on it, but some of the maintenance I have planned could remedy this (ie fuel filter)
  • ABS Code 32: Left front wheel speed sensor. Will check it out when I pull the wheels. Either clean or replace. I understand it's a magnet and can get all kinds of crud in it. I would like to have a working ABS, but I haven't done a full diagnostic
  • ABS Code 35: open circuit in left front or right rear wheel speed sensor. Thinking this indicates a bad speed sensor in the front left. Will find out.
  • Airbag code 31: airbag sensor assembly malfunction. I need to dig into this one. I may actually just take it to Toyota to diagnose because I don't want to mess with airbags, and the price of an OEM sensor isn't too bad to just swap it out.
• Cruise Control doesn't work. Haven't done diagnostic yet, I do have the FSM.
• Oil Pressure Gauge has stopped moving. It stays at the bottom. It worked when I first got the car. Did an oil change with 10w40 dinosaur oil, like the previous owner used, and now the sensor stopped moving. Oil level is good. Have done many searches on MUD on this, and most people say this is a gauge issue, but I have an oil pressure gauge coming from Amazon today and I'll get to the bottom of it and find out if I'm within spec or not. Also sending off a sample to Blackstone next week.

My Plans:
This is going to be my dedicated overlanding rig for Northeast Adventure Company trips for when I'm solo, or maybe with 1 kid. So after much deliberation, I'll likely be going with 35s and a 2.5" dobinson lift. I'm looking into their VT-series dual-rate "Long Travel" kit with the yellow tubes. Also extend the brake lines and breathers. Rebuild the axles, seals and bearings, and that'll be enough for this year. I'll probably regear next off-season. I have to keep it under a budget this season. Then next year I can blow it out with all the bells and whistles, hopefully!

I may be looking to swap out the original head unit and antenna. They are in working order, the antenna goes up and down automatically like it's supposed to and everything.

 

[NeverFinis]

Welcome!

The transmission crossmember is easy to replace. I would ask in the classifieds here for a used one. There are aftermarket replacements.

The gauge issue is more likely due to the sensor, and not the gauge. Am I am not sure how your search come up with the opposite. The sensor has two very weak connections that are prone to corrosion. The gauge might fail if someone connects those connections on the sensor backwards.


The ABS and Airbag codes will require going through the FSM diagnostics. Some of the ABS components are underneath the center console. A rodent might have gotten in and chewed the wires.

 

[colinm]

Welcome!

The transmission crossmember is easy to replace. I would ask in the classifieds here for a used one. There are aftermarket replacements.

The gauge issue is more likely due to the sensor, and not the gauge. Am I am not sure how your search come up with the opposite. The sensor has two very weak connections that are prone to corrosion. The gauge might fail if someone connects those connections on the sensor backwards.


The ABS and Airbag codes will require going through the FSM diagnostics. Some of the ABS components are underneath the center console. A rodent might have gotten in and chewed the wires.

Sorry, I guess I’m using sensor/gauge interchangeably. That’s what I meant. The sensor must be bad. Now to figure

Welcome!

The transmission crossmember is easy to replace. I would ask in the classifieds here for a used one. There are aftermarket replacements.

The gauge issue is more likely due to the sensor, and not the gauge. Am I am not sure how your search come up with the opposite. The sensor has two very weak connections that are prone to corrosion. The gauge might fail if someone connects those connections on the sensor backwards.


The ABS and Airbag codes will require going through the FSM diagnostics. Some of the ABS components are underneath the center console. A rodent might have gotten in and chewed the wires.

gotcha. Sensor, not gauge.

Colin’s razor. When Colin says something that sounds stupid, it’s probably because Colin misspoke, not because you’re wrong in your assumption. Just got the oil pressure gauge in and going to try to see if the sensor is bad. Thanks for the welcome! Your patience is appreciated.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

I don't have one of these, but I have heard great things about them from freinds that still live up the NE Salt Belt.
Induction coil nut heater for getting the coroded fastners loose.
Of all the things I miss about liveing in NH, crawing under the plow truck at -20 with a "blue tip wrench" ain't one of them!

 

[jonheld]

If you haven't already, reach out to the Yankee Toys, your local TLCA club.

MA/NH- Yankee Toys

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[colinm]

I don't have one of these, but I have heard great things about them from freinds that still live up the NE Salt Belt.
Induction coil nut heater for getting the coroded fastners loose.
Of all the things I miss about liveing in NH, crawing under the plow truck at -20 with a "blue tip wrench" ain't one of them!

I have been considering one. I dusted off the old cobalt drill bit set and tap and dye kit and showed it to my 6 year old and told him "if you see daddy using these tools, just stay away"

 

[colinm]

Oh and apparently the A/C doesn't work. Hasn't been much of an issue so far, but Quebec in July will make me very angry if I don't address it now. Previous owner suspected leaky condenser. Is the best bet to just replace the condenser? After pressure testing and all that to confirm its bad?

 

[NeverFinis]

Oh and apparently the A/C doesn't work. Hasn't been much of an issue so far, but Quebec in July will make me very angry if I don't address it now. Previous owner suspected leaky condenser. Is the best bet to just replace the condenser? After pressure testing and all that to confirm its bad?

You want to pull a vacuum on the A/C system. You could add dye with refrigerant and check for leaks as well.

It doesn't hurt to change the condenser (and dryer). It gets the most abuse. The evaporator, and expansion valve, aren't too hard to replace. The Toyota/Denso Evaporator is hard to find new ($$$$) and the replacements are physically smaller.

 

[colinm]

You want to pull a vacuum on the A/C system. You could add dye with refrigerant and check for leaks as well.

It doesn't hurt to change the condenser (and dryer). It gets the most abuse. The evaporator, and expansion valve, aren't too hard to replace. The Toyota/Denso Evaporator is hard to find new ($$$$) and the replacements are physically smaller.

My Father In Law is a retired HVAC guy and will be here in the Spring for a Turkey Hunt. I may have him join me for that project.

 

[CharlieS]

Hello mud h8ers!

I'm Colin. I come from the West Coast originally, calling Oregon home, although I grew up in Northern California a lot of my life as well. But now I live in New England, Rhode Island specifically. I just retired from the Army a few months ago, I'm 40 and have nothing better to do than work on my Land Cruiser. I've got a family too that tags along on my adventures.

I also work as a guide for Northeast Adventure Company (hello AJ, I know you're in here), so if you're interested in some guided overlanding in the Northeast or in some off-road recovery training, please feel free to shoot me a message (hope that's allowed, not trying to advertise, it's just worth mentioning and relevant to my build).

I have some history with working on vehicles. I started on motorcycles. After one of my deployments to Afghanistan I bought a Triumph motorcycle. I then had no money to fix the Triumph motorcycle, and was constantly broke. Also, the motorcycle was constantly broke. So I got to learn how to fix motorcycles. That progressed to my first gen Tacoma eventually breaking down because I didn't have the money or know-how to maintain it properly at the time. Then one day I picked up a FSM for the thing and just started ripping it apart. Loved that truck, but in Hawaii the frame failed the safety inspection and there was no coming back from that. No way a company was going to ship it for me back to the mainland. So I had to let it go, but I got a 4Runner. Built that out for overlanding/off-roading. Then when that was getting too beat up the wife said I needed to buy a s***box. And, as a member of the finer things club, I don't do s***boxes very well, so here I am.

Now, on to the important stuff! My New Land Cruiser! Bought it off Marketplace in November out of New York. Some rust but no soft spots on the frame. Frame is very solid. More on that later. 2 owners. Pretty well taken care of. Good maintenance history. Triple-locked, although I'm kind of wishing it wasn't right now. The rear locker won't engage, but I'll get to that later as well. It drives great! Other than the suspension being shot. The springs and shocks were replaced about 75,000 miles ago with OEM. And the head gasket was replaced about 10,000 miles ago.

I have done EXHAUSTIVE searching on this website. Unfortunately a lot of the info on here is outdated. A lot of the vendors have gone out of vendors, links are bad, etc., so if I ask questions that have been asked before, please excuse me, but the answers may no longer actually be relevant.

The good:

• Engine runs great
• Windows work
• Sunroof works, doesn't leak
• No rust holes
• No body rust

The bad:

• Need to do a rust clean-up. I've read into the deep dives and understand this is probably a futile effort. I'm going to do the best I can without killing myself on this. The transmission cross-member looks really bad, as does the rear cross-member. I plan to chop the rear cross-member off to do a high clearance bumper. That solves that problem. The transmission crossmember may be a candidate for removal. We'll see once I get the thing on stands how badly I want to do this.
• 2 check engine codes, ABS and airbag codes:
  • P0401: EGR. Either clean out or delete. Probably delete.
  • P0171: This just popped up yesterday so I haven't done much searching on it, but some of the maintenance I have planned could remedy this (ie fuel filter)
  • ABS Code 32: Left front wheel speed sensor. Will check it out when I pull the wheels. Either clean or replace. I understand it's a magnet and can get all kinds of crud in it. I would like to have a working ABS, but I haven't done a full diagnostic
  • ABS Code 35: open circuit in left front or right rear wheel speed sensor. Thinking this indicates a bad speed sensor in the front left. Will find out.
  • Airbag code 31: airbag sensor assembly malfunction. I need to dig into this one. I may actually just take it to Toyota to diagnose because I don't want to mess with airbags, and the price of an OEM sensor isn't too bad to just swap it out.
• Cruise Control doesn't work. Haven't done diagnostic yet, I do have the FSM.
• Oil Pressure Gauge has stopped moving. It stays at the bottom. It worked when I first got the car. Did an oil change with 10w40 dinosaur oil, like the previous owner used, and now the sensor stopped moving. Oil level is good. Have done many searches on MUD on this, and most people say this is a gauge issue, but I have an oil pressure gauge coming from Amazon today and I'll get to the bottom of it and find out if I'm within spec or not. Also sending off a sample to Blackstone next week.

My Plans:
This is going to be my dedicated overlanding rig for Northeast Adventure Company trips for when I'm solo, or maybe with 1 kid. So after much deliberation, I'll likely be going with 35s and a 2.5" dobinson lift. I'm looking into their VT-series dual-rate "Long Travel" kit with the yellow tubes. Also extend the brake lines and breathers. Rebuild the axles, seals and bearings, and that'll be enough for this year. I'll probably regear next off-season. I have to keep it under a budget this season. Then next year I can blow it out with all the bells and whistles, hopefully!

I may be looking to swap out the original head unit and antenna. They are in working order, the antenna goes up and down automatically like it's supposed to and everything.View attachment 3817680

Hi, Welcome. I've spent a good amount of time with AJ, Chris, Mason, Darin and crew. AJ and I have twin 80s, and he is directly responsible for finding this 80! Small world. Hope to meet you soon and check out that 80!

 

[colinm]

Hi, Welcome. I've spent a good amount of time with AJ, Chris, Mason, Darin and crew. AJ and I have twin 80s, and he is directly responsible for finding this 80! Small world. Hope to meet you soon and check out that 80!

View attachment 3818130

Yup, I figured somebody would know them! I’m the “new guy.” Or one of the new guys. And is that Jeff’s Bronco in the middle? With the school bus engine?

 

[CharlieS]

Yep!

Darin's 4Runner, Chris's GX, Jeff's Bronco, my 80, and AJs 80 in West Va.

 

[colinm]

Yep!

Darin's 4Runner, Chris's GX, Jeff's Bronco, my 80, and AJs 80 in West Va.

Oh ok. I met them right after the infamous West Va trip I think, I was on the Cape Spencer trip last year (in my 5th Gen 4Runner) and they were still gushing about West Virginia like it was this magical place they just discovered haha. We’re doing the Kentucky Adventure Trail this year, I’m looking forward to some good ol’ muddin’! That’s where I got my start! I’m getting used to some of this rocky stuff though.

 

[colinm]

Well a couple updates to what I’ve done. Don’t quite have the cashflow to do everything I want, so I’m just enjoying driving it for now and fixing little things. What I’ve done:

Hudd Expo EGR “test kit”. Don’t have the P0401 CEL anymore. Calling that a huge win. Vehicles over 25 years in RI don’t have to pass emissions. Now I only have a periodic CEL P0171 code every few weeks. Engine is running great though, did a 5 hour drive yesterday and it was fantastic. Need to fix the cruise control though.

Took off the side steps. Broke a couple rusty bolts and one of the brackets in the process. If anybody is in New England and wants them they can have them, but the metal parts are pretty rusty.

Got the oil sample results back from blackstone. Quick moment of panic when it came back with trace amounts of coolant. But remembered it was the first oil change since the head gasket replacement, so it’s likely residual. Called Blackstone and they agreed, just send in another sample on the next oil change and it should come down.

Oil pressure gauge/sensor fixed itself. I didn’t do anything. Pressure is right in the sweet spot with 10w40 dinosaur oil. Not gonna touch anything. Thank you Land Cruiser gnomes.

Current concerns: Coolant level is low-ish, but has been stable so I haven’t touched it. The radiator is topped off, but the overflow reservoir is empty. It looks like it has green stuff in it. I picked up some of the “Asian green” from the auto parts store, but was trying to figure out if that’s the right stuff or not. Any help appreciated. It was put in after the HG change and I didn’t get a shop record.

Would like to get the airbag light and ABS lights addressed, and fix the Cruise Control. I have the FSM and have seen the procedures. Tried the airbag light tap-tap method a few times and got frustrated. And the ABS light I think is one of the wheel sensors? Just need to pull off the wheel and check it out. Seems like every time I take something apart I break 2 other things. So… don’t need to do everything at once.

Camping trip in New Brunswick for an event called Brave the Brrrrr next weekend if anybody is interested. Supposed to get 10-20” of snow. I’ll be taking the 4Runner for that one though.

 

[CharlieS]

I saw it the weekend, clean looking rig.

I was commenting to Machete Pete that the trailer hitch and under mount spare are going to be a pain if you are going to run it on trails at what looks like stock height.

Once the weather warms up, consider draining, flushing, and replacing coolant with the correct Asian red, if it is in the budget.

You mentioned the transmission crossmember - the Trail Tailor Creeper crossmember replaces the stock one and has skid for the transmission and crossmember. It provides good protection. Not cheap, but cheaper than getting stranded. Creeper Skidplate 80 Series - https://www.trail-tailor.com/store/p102/80_Series_Creeper_Skidplate.html

With the 2.5" lift, you might also consider spacers for your sway bars, and bump stop extensions.

 

[colinm]

I saw it the weekend, clean looking rig.

I was commenting to Machete Pete that the trailer hitch and under mount spare are going to be a pain if you are going to run it on trails at what looks like stock height.

Once the weather warms up, consider draining, flushing, and replacing coolant with the correct Asian red, if it is in the budget.

You mentioned the transmission crossmember - the Trail Tailor Creeper crossmember replaces the stock one and has skid for the transmission and crossmember. It provides good protection. Not cheap, but cheaper than getting stranded. Creeper Skidplate 80 Series - https://www.trail-tailor.com/store/p102/80_Series_Creeper_Skidplate.html

With the 2.5" lift, you might also consider spacers for your sway bars, and bump stop extensions.

Yeah I don’t plan on running it on trails until I get the lift on. Maybe, but I’ll have to address that tow hitch. I think ideally I’ll add a rear bumper that will replace the entire rear cross members and I can chop off as much of the existing metal as possible. But for now I’ll keep it in case I need to pull anybody out of an icy ditch.

I was thinking about replacing with the red. That’s probably the only push I need. I seem to remember doing a flush on my first gen tacoma where I just ran distilled water through it until it ran clear ish and kept a close eye on the temp. Then drain and fill. Would that work?

I’ll take a look at the Trail Creeper and extended bump stops are in the plans. I have Durobumps on the 4Runner and they’re fantastic.

One thought I had about the sway bars was doing quick disconnects so I could get the benefits of them on the highway, and get the added travel without them on the trails. I’ve seen a few people that have done it on here with success.

Great to meet you finally Charlie!

 

[BucketEighty]

Do you plan to carry your spare tire on your future rear bumper, or in the vehicle? BellFab makes a nice interior tire carrier but you can fab up a budget solution if that cost is too steep.

GIS though HuddExpo has a replacement cross member that you can compare to the Trail Tailor Creeper and pick your favorite.

My priority list would be:
1. Baseline maintenance and repairs
2. Get the factory lockers working
3. Rock sliders
4. Front bumper with a winch
5. Relocate spare tire (inside or on a rear bumper with carrier)
6. Rear bumper
7. Wheel the truck and have fun
8. Suspension upgrades

I think you’ll be surprised how well the 80 wheels at stock height, and there are plenty of places to spend money before the lift kit.

 

[CharlieS]

Do you plan to carry your spare tire on your future rear bumper, or in the vehicle? BellFab makes a nice interior tire carrier but you can fab up a budget solution if that cost is too steep.

I have a extra Bellfab gen 1 interior tire carrier sale. I upgraded to the gen 2.

I was thinking about replacing with the red. That’s probably the only push I need. I seem to remember doing a flush on my first gen tacoma where I just ran distilled water through it until it ran clear ish and kept a close eye on the temp. Then drain and fill. Would that work?

Yup. You just don't want to mix red and green.

 

[NeverFinis]

Current concerns: Coolant level is low-ish, but has been stable so I haven’t touched it. The radiator is topped off, but the overflow reservoir is empty. It looks like it has green stuff in it. I picked up some of the “Asian green” from the auto parts store, but was trying to figure out if that’s the right stuff or not. Any help appreciated. It was put in after the HG change and I didn’t get a shop record.

Stick with what is in there until it is time to change. The manual only calls for "a good brand of ethylene−glycol base coolant"

It really depends on your radiator and how it is (or isn't) soldered together. Some FZJ80 owners switched out the aluminum radiator to an older brass/copper radiator. We also have copper/brass heater cores, whose solder might not be compatible with modern extended-life coolants.


With that being said, I am running GM Extended Life Dexcool due to the L96 engine I have, but I also have copper/brass heater cores.

GM says this:

• Designed to help provide effective long-term anti-corrosion support by protecting brass, cast iron, steel, solder, and copper components.

so, there's that...lol