Harrop E-Locker using OEM Switch and Dash Lights in a HDJ81 / FJ80

Malahki

 
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I decided to put this thread together for anybody wanting to wire Harrop E-Lockers into an HDJ81 or FJ80 using the OEM locker switch and locker dash lights. I found most of the info spread out over a couple of other 'Harrop" threads and wanted to put it all together in one place and add some pictures and diagrams.

I will not be focusing on the actual locker install or setting up of gears. For that I simply removed my 3rd and shipped it to Ken (AKA Zuk) at Toyota Gear Install Harrop He also supplied the Harrop locker through Cruiser Brothers @wardharris

Parts needed:
Harrop Locker(s)
OEM locker switch: 84725-60020
OEM Bulbs x 2: 90981-11018
OEM Bulb Sockets x 2: 83101-14040
OEM Terminal repair wires x 3 for 1 locker, x 5 for 2 lockers: 82998-12160
12volt Relay

Step 1
Determine if your HDJ81 or FJ80 has the factory locker wiring harness. Takes about 5 minutes and from what I've read most of the unlocked trucks come with the harness already in place. Just remove the passenger side kick panel and look for the ECU plug. On unlocked trucks it is tucked into the body panel
20180310_161711.jpg


If you have the ECU plug, then you will also find the plug for the OEM switch in the dash
20180310_171212.jpg


20180310_171248.jpg
 
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Malahki

 
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Lethbridge AB
Step 2
remove the required pins from the ECU wiring harness. I chose to purchase the matching male pins to connect to them rather then butchering the harness / wires. By simply crimping but connectors to the other end I had the perfect length of wires necessary to complete the install.
20180310_144213.jpg


Conect them to the ECU pins and shrink wrap
20180310_144344.jpg


Pin 8 is your 30 amp fused power supply. However these lockers require only about 3 amps, so simply swap out the 30amp fuse for a 10 amp fuse in the fuse panel
20180310_164129.jpg
 
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Malahki

 
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Next step
I ran the Harrop wiring harness out the dash to the differential and mounting the Harrop relay and a 2nd relay to the body panel using existing mounting bolts and make your conections
20180314_165111.jpg


Then its just a matter of adding the locker bulb and socket to the back of the dash cluster. (Because there is no ECU the locker will work with or without the center diff lock switch activated)
20180310_170727.jpg


Reassemble dash and install switch
20180312_194022.jpg
 
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mod5csi

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I did this. You can get the female plug to plug into your dash harness that already exists. Then put some lamps in the dash.

I will take some pics, I don't think I saved the wire to I was developing.
 
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I wonder if there is an amber LED available to use in place of the factory bulb/socket?
Yeah, gotta be something that would work, you just have to watch your Ps and Qs about polarities when swapping in LEDs as they like that right.

I keep reading "FJ80" but is that equal to FZJ80, ie, does this cover all year 80s provided they have that plug, etc?

Yes, excellent hack!:clap:
 

mryanangel

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Did you only install the rear harrop? Pin 8 is the power supply for the locker relays, but it looks like you set up you wiring to supply power to just one relay. I assume for those that are installing both front and rear, you would just splice two wires off of the Pin 8 power feed...one to each harrop relay.
 

Malahki

 
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Did you only install the rear harrop? Pin 8 is the power supply for the locker relays, but it looks like you set up you wiring to supply power to just one relay. I assume for those that are installing both front and rear, you would just splice two wires off of the Pin 8 power feed...one to each harrop relay.
Yes you are correct. I only installed a rear locker for now but youll need to attach both your front and rear harrop relay power supply wires (red) to pin 8
 

mryanangel

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It was about $75 USD shipping for one 3rd from Alberta/Montana border to Zuk in Chandler, Arizona
It cost me about $140 to ship two 3rds from NJ to AZ...I stripped them down and only sent the essentials (no diff) to save weight and shipping cost. The cost to ship both loaded 3rds after Zuk was done with them was about $200.
 

Enders

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I’m curious, is the second relay per diff really needed? Could you just tie pins 2 and 12 into switched power for the Harrops relay for the rear then do the same for 6 and 9 for the front? The factory didn’t do it that way as you got feedback when the locker had engaged, which the harrops won’t provide.
 
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I’m curious, is the second relay per diff really needed? Could you just tie pins 2 and 12 into switched power for the Harrops relay for the rear then do the same for 6 and 9 for the front? The factory didn’t do it that way as you got feedback when the locker had engaged, which the harrops won’t provide.

The second relay is needed to ground the dash indicator so it will light up. If you tie pins 2 and 12, the bulb will not light up since you'll be feeding +12V.
 
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