FMC80
SILVER Star
Yeah, it's easy for me to spend your money. I bought new calipers at wholesale Toyota parts and it wasn't that bad, but it did sting a little.
Builds Land Crusher Build Thread - V2 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Somebodyelse5
- Start date
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JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
No, let him be a poor if he wants to
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
Did you ever discover the rib thread size depth question? I may have missed it. I’m loving your build. Especially the home fab tools and technique.
- Thread starter
- #124
Can confirm that the threads for the ribs are identical to the roof rack mounts (M5 x .8). The 12mm long, ultrawide head, bolt should work just fine there.Did you ever discover the rib thread size depth question? I may have missed it. I’m loving your build. Especially the home fab tools and technique.
Part to order from McMaster P/N: 95608A123. I have a bunch of extra washers from the pack I ordered if you want a set, shoot me a PM with your address I can mail them to you. I wish they were a bit stiffer, but as long as you used some RTV + don't over torque and smash them, they seem to be working great.
Appreciate the positive words, doing my best not to light anything on fire while I dump money into this thing.
- Thread starter
- #125
New horns are installed. No more sounding like a 90's camry. These are the high and low out of a 4runner (I forget the year) but they bolt right in, no modifications needed to electrical.
You'll need one of each of these (two horns total) one is high pitch, one is low pitch (i don't recall which P/N is which)
P/N: 86510-60300 QTY 1
P/N: 86520-60250 QTY 1
You will need to loosen the 14mm jam nut on the back of each horn, rotate one mounting bracket 90 degrees clockwise and rotate the mounting bracket on the other horn 90 degrees counter clockwise. 12mm socket to remove the two horns, pull the plugs, plug in the new horns, bolts them in.
Horn and mounting bracket, pretty neat that it has a notch at 90 degrees and boss to capture the bracket while tightening:
Old little horns vs new big horns:
All mounted up:
You'll need one of each of these (two horns total) one is high pitch, one is low pitch (i don't recall which P/N is which)
P/N: 86510-60300 QTY 1
P/N: 86520-60250 QTY 1
You will need to loosen the 14mm jam nut on the back of each horn, rotate one mounting bracket 90 degrees clockwise and rotate the mounting bracket on the other horn 90 degrees counter clockwise. 12mm socket to remove the two horns, pull the plugs, plug in the new horns, bolts them in.
Horn and mounting bracket, pretty neat that it has a notch at 90 degrees and boss to capture the bracket while tightening:
Old little horns vs new big horns:
All mounted up:
FMC80
SILVER Star
Such an inexpensive but majorly worthwhile mod.
- Thread starter
- #127
Slowly getting all of my lift parts together and ordered, still commiserating over tiresize. I know that @JunkCrzr89 thinks I should go with 37's.... I just can't decide.
So far, what I have decided on (and ordered):
- Dobinson C59-612V front springs - these are the flexy "long travel" springs and are variable rate, claim 3" of lift with up to 220lbs additional
- Dobinson C59 - 613V rear springs - these are the matching rear springs and claim 3" of lift with up to 200lbs additional
- Dobinson rear sway bar drop
- Dobinson LSPV drop
- Slee front sway bar drop
- Slee front and rear bump stop drops
- Slee ebrake cable drop
- Summit Offroad Raptors - Matte Black - 17x9-12 (4.5" backspacing, so the tread is centered over the rim)
- Land Tank 2.5* Castor correction plates
I need to decide on rubber and shocks:
- Planning on the OME BP-51's. I hear they last a ton longer between rebuilds than Radflo's and they are a true bypass shock, 2 way adjustable. Specifically, the longer variants to go with the flexi springs:
-This is the major point I am debating...BFG KM3's, just not sure if I should go 35x12.5... or 37x12.5 and drop my bump stops further
So far, what I have decided on (and ordered):
- Dobinson C59-612V front springs - these are the flexy "long travel" springs and are variable rate, claim 3" of lift with up to 220lbs additional
- Dobinson C59 - 613V rear springs - these are the matching rear springs and claim 3" of lift with up to 200lbs additional
- Dobinson rear sway bar drop
- Dobinson LSPV drop
- Slee front sway bar drop
- Slee front and rear bump stop drops
- Slee ebrake cable drop
- Summit Offroad Raptors - Matte Black - 17x9-12 (4.5" backspacing, so the tread is centered over the rim)
- Land Tank 2.5* Castor correction plates
I need to decide on rubber and shocks:
- Planning on the OME BP-51's. I hear they last a ton longer between rebuilds than Radflo's and they are a true bypass shock, 2 way adjustable. Specifically, the longer variants to go with the flexi springs:
-This is the major point I am debating...BFG KM3's, just not sure if I should go 35x12.5... or 37x12.5 and drop my bump stops further
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
To fit 37s with the 3” lift and centered wheels, You won’t need to drop your bumpstops any more than what the Slee drops provide.
- Thread starter
- #129
Prinsu grab handles installed on the DS. Just put two up there. These will accept the Baja designs rock lights, pretty cool.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
Those are nifty. I’ll bet they are essential with the Prinsu design.
Awning
- Thread starter
- #131
23zero Peregrine installed today:
The prinsu mounting brackets will not work with a 270 awning. These are the 23Zero brackets, installed them with qty(6) 1/4-20x1" stainless carriage bolts (2 per bracket). Should do the trick. Not an easy thing to install solo. Likely need to push it back a bit, but we will see.
Summit Raptors also showed up, I think FedEx and UPS are starting to hate me. I got 5 total, these are the 17x9-12 (4.5" back spacing):
The prinsu mounting brackets will not work with a 270 awning. These are the 23Zero brackets, installed them with qty(6) 1/4-20x1" stainless carriage bolts (2 per bracket). Should do the trick. Not an easy thing to install solo. Likely need to push it back a bit, but we will see.
Summit Raptors also showed up, I think FedEx and UPS are starting to hate me. I got 5 total, these are the 17x9-12 (4.5" back spacing):
I got a set of the grab handles for my Bowfin, just cleared my Awning mounts, wish they pointed the light down a little more vertical tho. Seems like it will point the light to the rear of the mounting instead of the ground. Holding here on the lights until I can confirm. They work great for grab handles though.
- Thread starter
- #133
How is that ultrasonic cleaner working for ya? I was looking at that brand on Amazon but am a bit skeptical of most of the Chinese trash on there...I could probably do without the entire 2nd row. The dog doesn't care what's back there and she is the only one that goes anywhere with me
Bunch of parts came today:
View attachment 2978403
Need to decide if I want / need to rebuild the calipers when I crack the system open to do the extended stainless lines and the new master cylinder + booster
- Thread starter
- #135
So far so good. Been using it to clean a lot of hardware and it’s been great. wish i’d sprung for a bigger one (i mountain bike and it’d be nice to fit a cassette in there).
Supposedly these either fail right away, or they work well for a few years. Still beats the super expensive pro models that are a few hundred.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #136
Since my 3rd row seat belts are out, thought it would be cool to fill the pulley hole with something useful. Grabbed two Metolious bolt hangers (these are for climbing anchors) and opened up the mounting hole to accept the bolt from the seat belt retractor. I'm not sure what I'll use them for, but I think it's kind of neat, especially if you are a climber 
1. Order anchor of your choice... tons of options out there, go cheap. I tacked these onto a back country order and they were a few bucks each
2. Open op the hole to 15/32's (this is tough stuff, use some coolant like wd40), then chamfer the sharp edges.
3. Remove your rear seat belt, retain the retractor mechanism bolt and lock washer.
4. Bolt the hanger to the top hole with that bolt
1. Order anchor of your choice... tons of options out there, go cheap. I tacked these onto a back country order and they were a few bucks each
2. Open op the hole to 15/32's (this is tough stuff, use some coolant like wd40), then chamfer the sharp edges.
3. Remove your rear seat belt, retain the retractor mechanism bolt and lock washer.
4. Bolt the hanger to the top hole with that bolt
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
It’s obviously for hanging the little tree air freshener.Since my 3rd row seat belts are out, thought it would be cool to fill the pulley hole with something useful. Grabbed two Metolious bolt hangers (these are for climbing anchors) and opened up the mounting hole to accept the bolt from the seat belt retractor. I'm not sure what I'll use them for, but I think it's kind of neat, especially if you are a climber
1. Order anchor of your choice... tons of options out there, go cheap. I tacked these onto a back country order and they were a few bucks each
2. Open op the hole to 15/32's (this is tough stuff, use some coolant like wd40), then chamfer the sharp edges.
View attachment 2982694
3. Remove your rear seat belt, retain the retractor mechanism bolt and lock washer.
View attachment 2982696
4. Bolt the hanger to the top hole with that bolt
View attachment 2982695
View attachment 2982703
View attachment 2982704
- Thread starter
- #138
LUX Lights officially arrived. These things are pretty bright for their size:
The pile of parts is growing! Aaaand it’s getting hot out…
The pile of parts is growing! Aaaand it’s getting hot out…
- Thread starter
- #139
Landshark Reef 2.0 drawer showed up today. These things are pretty cool. Waiting on the wing and mount plate, but the drawer itself is coming together.
Spent about an hour on it tonight:
Spent about an hour on it tonight:
- Thread starter
- #140
Not sure how I should finish this box... definitely will be putting a liner in the bottom. Carpet on the top? Paint? Anyone know any cool materials I should look into?
