Scored 2007 LC w/174K AHC

[2001LC]

Power steering flushed:
For more detail on flushing see:FWIW: Steering Flush & Cleaning

Pouring out old fluid:

Old fluid had about 15K and looked really good. Toyota Dealer records indicate system flushed at least three times in it's life. Last flush "Mountain State Toyota" states 12oz ZMAX added (seem like a lot), something I've not heard of before. Not sure what to make of this as they also state 10 qts gear lube (we hold less then 7qts) & SSL coolant was used but red is present. They had also over filled brake fluid reservoir. The steering rack on this rig was replace at some point with rebuilt, so at least one more flush.

Reservoir & screen looked very clean.
My 6 mo old HB (junk) air compressor broke down, so dried after cleaning with vacuum.

I love the results with M1, and have for years now.

After bleeding system I did the raise test, could not have been better.

 

[2001LC]

Swap out the fuel filter:

This time cutting pump power to relieve pressure by disconnected wire block under drive side rear door then starting.

New in & torqued:

 

[2001LC]

Had a 1/2 gallon of windshield fluid in shop I poured in:

 

[2001LC]

Flushed transfer case with M1:
Looks like old fill plug was leaking a tiny bit, common when washer (gasket not replaced)

Drain plug had minimal residue on magnet, about as good as I've ever seen.

One important point, is let new fluid settle in and recheck before buttoning up.

Old did look ready to come out. A few more flushes with M1 ever 20K miles and it will come out clear.

 

[2001LC]

Flushed the rear differential with M1 (front diff done with rebooting):
Again looked like fill plug washer not replace last flush:

Drain plug residue on magnet looked amazing. Sorry no picture but not much and no large pieces.

Fluid looked ok about like I'd expect for only ~15K with conventional gear lube. Two more flushes with M1 every 35K (25K on front differential) and it will run clear also.

 

[2001LC]

Sticking with KISS, of course I used M1 oil & filter:

 

[2001LC]

I pulled wheel hubs again to replaced the wheel bearings, races & claw washer with new. I had scheduled replacement on next wheel bearing service (30K miles), but decision was made to move up.

As a rule of thumb I schedule bearing replacement when they pass visual inspection, but take an unusually high torque (much above 50 or 60ft-lbf) on adjusting nut to get desired breakaway preload. The FSM doesn't have a maximum torque concern stated that I've seen. But I do this out of concern that the very few threads on adjusting nut will be stretched during next service. As I've found on each subsequent service a higher torque is always required. The bearings themselves seem to do just fine even when even 72ft-lbf torque is used on them.

I used @AimCOtaco suggestion of freezing the bearings races' overnight to shrink, being careful to not mix bearing & race sets.

After removing old races, I cleaned wheel hub inner area with wire brush to prepare for races:

Used a space heater for ~90 mins to heat wheel hubs, followed with heat gun just before installing the now frozen races:

Tap in races using price of oak to protect race, then old races and final set/seat with brass dowel.

Installed new claw washer as well. Would love to see how it looks at next service (30K miles):

I was able to get a very respectable wheel bearing breakaway preloads of: 10lb with adjusting nut torque to 46ft-lbf, and a final BW preload 12.5lb with 47ft-lbf on adjusting nuts. Numbers were same for each side, a first for me (nice balance).

Interesting I found snap ring to hub flange gaps increase ~0.04 to 0.08mm with new bearings kits. I suspect this is do to grease settling between axle bushing & axle. It could also be slight difference in bearing & race and/or claw washer thickness. Although old and new were OEM Timken with same part numbers.

I've found BW preload drops to about 7lb, as bearings & race settles in. So i'm going to re-set wheel bearing BW pre-load (again) after short break-in period. At which time I'll use the new lock washer and re-set snap ring gap with new snap ring(s) as needed to get as tight a gap as possible. I'm also going to replacing all 12 cone washers as they're starting to look a bit more aged (scored) with each removal, along with 12 new hub flange nuts.

(stock photo from 01LX470)

 

[2001LC]

 

[abuck99]

Looking good Paul- you could have dinner off most any part inside that engine compartment. You are doing impressive work to clean that rig up.

Regarding installing the races- for DIY on lookers, you can achieve good results by placing the race in the freezer for 30min-to an hour. I did this with out heating the hub and the went right in using the old race to tap new into place with very little effort.

Are you bringing this one to HIH?

 

[Greenbean]

Your work inspires me!

Wow...

 

[2001LC]

Thank you both, pats on back are always welcome.

Actual I installed races in one side after only a few hour's in freezer, the other side after 24 hours of freezing. The 24 hours freezing side slipped in much easier. Next time I'll try not heating the wheel hubs!

No, sadly it will be going to it's new home before HIH.

 

[04UZJ100]

What's your day job? How did you learn these meticulous skills!?

 

[2001LC]

What's your day job? How did you learn these meticulous skills!?

I stared working on engines when I was 6 or 7 yrs old helping my dad (or get in the way). Mini-bikes and go-carts engine rebuilds by 10yrs. Building a Soap Box Derby race with my Dad before 12 yrs old. Work on various import and american cars from 12 to 16 buying and selling. Then rebuilt (blue printed actually) my first 400 V-8 out of my 68 GTO in the late 69-70ish while going to a mechanics & body & fender school for a short time. That GTO was unbeatable by any street car that every challenged me. It was stealthily tricked out with high lift cam and thinner head gasket both from the RAM GTO engine. I put a screen under carbs, headers, excel HP distributor, I ported and polished heads, new spark plugs every 1K miles (didn't last long in those days). Plus a supper easy timing trick I developed while at school. We had access to a sun machine that stood 6 feet tall and 5 feet wide, supper cool for the day. Using it, to measure engine vitals, I found it possible to time the engine with a vacuum gauge to peak performance for our altitude. Sometime after serving in the Army 71/72 I got into Datsun 240Z, fixing (rust) body mostly, and setting up suspension for tight cornering. Found Japanese car didn't need much working on mechanically. Had a job as a mechanic for a short time in a gas station, at some point after after the Army.

I became a stock broker and analyst while raising my family for next 30 years or so, working on my own cars as time permitted. I suppose various jobs I had tough me to be very meticulous. If I did not check everything other people would suffer, so I check and recheck.

Today I'm semi retired, trade stocks & oil futures contracts. Mud and working on 100 series is my stress reliever.

Working on my 01 LC for last 13 yrs, reading mud and working on these restorations last 2 yrs, I've learned more than all my other mechanical experience tough me.

Maybe one day I'll open a shop just for 100 series.

 

[2001LC]

Looking for creaks & squeaks in post #45 found rear stabilizer link to bar cushion & collar was shot, which I replaced at that time. At same time I found a busted (rusted through) link from my 01LC (The King) lying on garage floor. So I totally rebuilt the stabilizer system front and rear on the King. The handling afterwards was amazing, getting on HWY ramps & mountain roads was like dialing back the clock 13 yrs.

So the decision to rebuild the 07LC (Redbarons) stabilizer system was subsequently made, to insure it would handle as designed for years to come. It was a good thing too, as issue were found. Number one was front links were rusting and stabilizer bar link mounting holes were widening. The front bushings also were more worn than early visual inspection revealed.
Pre cleaning inspection looked good:

Old parts during rebuilding:

 

[2001LC]

More pics stabilizer front.

Old stabilizer bar hole for link mount was 14mm at narrowest point:

New stabilizer bar hole for link mount was 13.25mm at widest point:

Use some marine grease to reduce future rust:

 

[2001LC]

Old Rear links were good, so didn't need new.

 

[04UZJ100]

What would you do if you encountered a nut on the inside of the frame that broke free from its tack welds? This happened to one of my sway bar mounts. It feels tight by hand but I want to repair it.

Hoping someone with your knowledge has some ideas.

 

[PabloCruise]

Some really good 100 series stuff in here!

 

[abuck99]

Paul,

Were you able to get the front stabilizer bar in and out with out removing the torsion bars?

 

[2001LC]

What would you do if you encountered a nut on the inside of the frame that broke free from its tack welds? This happened to one of my sway bar mounts. It feels tight by hand but I want to repair it.

Hoping someone with your knowledge has some ideas.

Which nut? Do you have a rust problem?

Did you get to factory torque, if so you're good. Example; the weight hanging off the frame (flux capacitor, as it called by some), on the older rigs this was retrofitted, those nuts aren't tacked/wielded. There is a procedure for getting the nut up there, that the factory wrote. So you could use same in the future if need be. Your next option would be to take to wielding shop, they've some tricks.

Some really good 100 series stuff in here!

Thanks Pablo, I've more to come. @PADDO given me some good advise in a PM, I'll be working on tweaking AHC.
I'll also be changing heater Tee's, and doing a full flush of coolant, switching back to pink SLL from the red in it now. Since pink only comes in 50/50 I'll need to figure way to get heater core and lines blown, flushed & filled. Should be fun!
Addition I'll be doing a transmission drain & fill, "without dip stick" "One thing Toyota did I don't like at all".
The big job to come is the timing belt on this VVTi with new fan bracket.
Spark plugs.
Both PCV hoses.
Windshield.
Two down and I've one more little rattle I'm chasing down. Factory didn't ship with groans, rattles & squeaks (except seat leather) so they've got to go. I hope I don't find anything else...but if I do... stay tuned...

This rig should need nothing but cosmetic for years to come when I'm done, except normal PM.

Paul,

Were you able to get the front stabilizer bar in and out with out removing the torsion bars?

Yes. The one bolt facing down is time consuming as it must be wrenched all the way by hand. Toyota engines really helped us here with the forward nut coming in from above/top. I start both by hand then use my air tool on top bolt.

One issue I'm having with both the 01 & 07 is getting front bushing to seat with no gap at rubber seam. I'm letting it work itself in then I working in by loosening bolts, adjusting rubber bushing and then tightening again. This may take a few repeats!