Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition.
These step will help you get, a better idea on how to.
To remove reservoir, I release clamps and reservoir from holder. Then hose will turn freely and I flip over reservoir pouring old fluid out.
After removing reservoir. I rinse inside of reservoir with a de-greaser. Like dish soap, simple green or whatever degreaser I've around. I then place reservoir into jug (old antifreeze jug I cut top off of), pour in 100% industrial strength Simple Green, and submerging reservoir solution. I let soak overnight, shaking jug now and then. A Sonic cleaner speed up process. Then spray out reservoir with garden hose. I keep re-submerging in Simple Green and spraying inside reservoir with water to rinsing, as many times as it takes to get gunk out of screen and bottom of reservoir. Note: Do not reinstall until completely dry.
Look close, you can see screen inside reservoir. It must be clean.
Here you see: Return hose run to 1qt plastic milk bottle. Which, makes nice catch can. Clear hose connected to return nipple of reservoir, is just a temp plug for when refilling. PCV hose (Ventilation) just happens to be in this picture, which is for the 00-up.
To stop seepage from hoses at reservoir, vane pump or where return line attaches to hard line. Best is to replace hoses, using OEM hoses and clamps. But we can just doctor hoses and clamps as temporary solution. See clamp and hose examples in post #7. Which is temporary IMHO, buts works most of the time. Best, is to replace hose or hoses and use OEM clamps.
If you don't have or can't use, OEM clamps. Then, best clamp is fuel line hose clamps. Worst to use is typical worm gear clamps. They don't give a perfect seal and they cut into hose.
98-02 OEM return line is not available from Toyota separate from the costly HP line assemble. So I use 29" of 3/8"ID transmission cooler line from Advance Auto, which is a very tight fit. The 3/8" cooler line will not come back off easy. Care must be taken when removing factory or aftermarket hoses from reservoir, due to risk of breaking the reservoir male nipple. Basically do not pull hoses off. Just, push/pry off from back end work very well
When temporary clamping old hose(s), to stop weeping rather than replacing hoses. I move factory clamp to just outside the end of male nipple tip (ball at end). Then place new ASS screw or fuel clamp just to inside of male nipple tip seems to work okay. But as stated, Fuel line clamps is best practice for aftermarket hose when OEM clamps won't fit due to some smaller walled (OD) hose. Tighten, but not over tighten.
Nothing beats, new factory hoses and the OEM clamps (new or used).
In 03-07, return and suction hoses are available from Toyota. In 98-02 return hose/line is not sold separate from main HP/LP line assembly. In those we replace hoses with, 3/8" transmission cooler hose so save on parts cost & time.
These step will help you get, a better idea on how to.
- Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with servicing/flushing.
- Release hose clamps from hoses of reservoir, sliding them down the hoses a few inches. Do not remove hose yet, just insure they turn freely on reservoir nipples.
- Pull reservoir out of holder. You'll need to release/bend clip outward, on outside of holding bracket.
- Remove cap and pour out fluid into catch cup.
- Remove return (smaller) hose, placing hose end into catch can to catch fluid. Tip: Pry gently form back end of hose, to push off it off reservoir nipple. Pulling on hose or excessive force, will break the nipple off reservoir.
- Raise front end of vehicle, placing jack-stands under frame to hold up front end.
- With end of return hose run into a catch can, wheels off ground and engine off. Turn steering wheel lock to lock (knuckle stops), holding at lock for 3 seconds. Just until reservoir empty, no more. (Note: You can continue turning and holding steering wheel. Which will 95% of all fluid out of vane pump, lines and rack into catch can. Which we do when removing rack, Vane pump, HP line.)
- (Skip to step 10, if just flushing). Remove reservoir and clean inside it. Getting screen and bottom cleaned of gunk. I do this once during my first flushing, if reservoir screen & lower chambers clogged. It's thereafter kept clean, by just regularly flushing.
- Replace the now cleaned & dry reservoir, and attach suction (larger) hose to it.
- Plug return (smaller) nipple of reservoir. So you can fill reservoir, without fluid running out of return nipple. Keep the return hose, running into to catch can (step 5).
- Fill reservoir to near top with ATF (I use Mobil 1 ATF) and replace cap. Takes ~1/2 qt. Tip: If reservoir still has a small amount of old fluid in the bottom. Before adding new fluid, just turn steering wheel to remove that small amount. But note: If you remove to much, you'll suck air into suction hose. Which you can do, but makes bleed air out a longer process.
- With return line run into a catch can, front wheels off ground, reservoir full and engine off. Turn steering wheel slowly lock to lock, holding snug at lock (stop) for three seconds or more. Takes a little more than 1 1/2 turns to empty reservoir below return line nipple, so watch close. Don't run reservoir dry. By now you'll be seeing clear translucent red fluid, flowing into catch can. Which means system is completely flushed.
- Re-attach return line to reservoir. At this point, fluid should be just below return line nipple of reservoir with some fluid in very bottom of reservoir. Tip 1: By titling reservoir, so nipples are tilted upward. Keeps fluid from running out, as you re-attach return line and place reservoir back in its holder. 2: When all fluid was flush/drained from system to replace components such as rack & pinion. I'll sometimes find, I need let fluid sit in reservoir for a little while, to trickle into vane pump. Then turn steering wheel fast from lock to lock, to get fluid moving at first. This help force in fluid through and push out air. Once fluid flowing (sucking) from reservoir, slow turns from lock to lock and hold at lock.
- Pour in more ATF to maximum cold line.
- Bleed, by turning steering wheel lock to lock, holding at each lock (stop) 3 second, while engine off and tires off ground. Do this 3 times or more, until fluid level no longer drops, and no bubbles seen. Make sure fluid is keep above minimum cold line.
- Then place vehicle/tire back on ground, start engine and turning lock to lock 3 times holding at lock. Watch your fluid level. If level drops below minimum, stop engine and add more ATF. Do not let level get to low, or air gets into lines. Keep bleeding (turning steering wheel), until no foam/bubbles seen in reservoir.
- Top to maximum cold line.
- Recheck level after driving.
- Repeat every 20K miles or sooner, just flushing. If kept regularly flushed, reservoir will not need removing again for cleaning.
To remove reservoir, I release clamps and reservoir from holder. Then hose will turn freely and I flip over reservoir pouring old fluid out.
After removing reservoir. I rinse inside of reservoir with a de-greaser. Like dish soap, simple green or whatever degreaser I've around. I then place reservoir into jug (old antifreeze jug I cut top off of), pour in 100% industrial strength Simple Green, and submerging reservoir solution. I let soak overnight, shaking jug now and then. A Sonic cleaner speed up process. Then spray out reservoir with garden hose. I keep re-submerging in Simple Green and spraying inside reservoir with water to rinsing, as many times as it takes to get gunk out of screen and bottom of reservoir. Note: Do not reinstall until completely dry.
Look close, you can see screen inside reservoir. It must be clean.
Here you see: Return hose run to 1qt plastic milk bottle. Which, makes nice catch can. Clear hose connected to return nipple of reservoir, is just a temp plug for when refilling. PCV hose (Ventilation) just happens to be in this picture, which is for the 00-up.
To stop seepage from hoses at reservoir, vane pump or where return line attaches to hard line. Best is to replace hoses, using OEM hoses and clamps. But we can just doctor hoses and clamps as temporary solution. See clamp and hose examples in post #7. Which is temporary IMHO, buts works most of the time. Best, is to replace hose or hoses and use OEM clamps.
If you don't have or can't use, OEM clamps. Then, best clamp is fuel line hose clamps. Worst to use is typical worm gear clamps. They don't give a perfect seal and they cut into hose.
98-02 OEM return line is not available from Toyota separate from the costly HP line assemble. So I use 29" of 3/8"ID transmission cooler line from Advance Auto, which is a very tight fit. The 3/8" cooler line will not come back off easy. Care must be taken when removing factory or aftermarket hoses from reservoir, due to risk of breaking the reservoir male nipple. Basically do not pull hoses off. Just, push/pry off from back end work very well
When temporary clamping old hose(s), to stop weeping rather than replacing hoses. I move factory clamp to just outside the end of male nipple tip (ball at end). Then place new ASS screw or fuel clamp just to inside of male nipple tip seems to work okay. But as stated, Fuel line clamps is best practice for aftermarket hose when OEM clamps won't fit due to some smaller walled (OD) hose. Tighten, but not over tighten.
Nothing beats, new factory hoses and the OEM clamps (new or used).
In 03-07, return and suction hoses are available from Toyota. In 98-02 return hose/line is not sold separate from main HP/LP line assembly. In those we replace hoses with, 3/8" transmission cooler hose so save on parts cost & time.
Last edited:
