Is this right - 4x4 Labs Steering (1 Viewer)

[fussy_cruiser]

I have the opposite angle from most drag links I have seen.

Is this right? Did I create some sort of weird bump-steer situation?

The truck is a little squirrley on the street, nothing major, just different from the old steering.
edit: Tracks fine, but I have to correct the steering more when I hit bumps, especially @ hiway speeds.

I have tried to add and take away toe, 1/16" to 1/4", not change. Should I add more toe, 1/2"?

I figured I would ask before going out and trying to procure a flat pitman arm.

I searched and couldn't come up with this exact situation. Thanks!

 

[LukeZero]

Are those lift springs? It looks like you went to high steer arms, with a dropped pitman arm. There is nothing "wrong" with it- but I do agree that it is opposite of what most guys end up with.

Squirrelly on the road had nothing to do with the angle of your drag link in this case. The angle in the picture would not create odd handling situations. I would check the toe-in or toe-out, as well as the caster angles.

Luke

 

[fussy_cruiser]

I edited the OP.

I have to correct the steering more after hitting bumps, than the old steering setup. The only difference (as far as I can tell) is this drag link angle. It was opposite before.

4" lift springs SUA with 1" lift shackles. 6 degree shims to correct caster angle.
Not running a steering stabilizer, might put on one and see if that makes a difference.

Running 35 x 12.50 tires, so I know it likes to follow the ruts in the road, and will never handle like a BMW.

Thanks,

 

[pygpen]

Those look like extended shackles. That can cause caster (or is it camber?) angle problems, wander, and squirleyness. Get some 4* shims to rotate the axle back.
PMK

 

[tucker74]

Other than there is no real need for hi-steer arms when you're SUA, I agree that the caster angle is probably your issue. Get some 4" shims

Tucker

 

[Plowboy]

Other than there is no real need for hi-steer arms when you're SUA, I agree that the caster angle is probably your issue. Get some 4" shims

Tucker

??????Why wouldn't you want to move tierod and draglink up and away from rocks???? Even if it is SUA??

 

[pbgbottle]

call Luke back and get his flat pitman arm i had the same thing happen to me .just swapped the 1 inch drop pitman for his flat one and all was level and again

if you go with his flat one you will need to cut the fat indexing spline into two . very easy to do ,the flat one is indexed one key off.

 

[Trollhole]

How far is the relay rod away from the frame? Possible you would bash it?

 

[bikersmurf]

If you're toed out it will be all over the road. You only need something like 1/8" toe in, more will just eat your tires.

Steering stabilizers help with the sorts of problems you are having you should have one IMO.

 

[petescoffee]

here is link to some pictures of my 4x4labs post which has a some pictures.https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/307894-4x4labs-high-steer-pictures-wanted.html
I had a problem develop after a couple of years. I believe I have solved my problems with new spring bushings, fixed cracked weld, removed front wheel spacers, rebalanced tires. Once I got everything the best I could I reinstalled the steering stabilizer.

 

[petescoffee]

Here is a quick camera phone picture of the angle on mine. I have the flat steering arm from Luke.

I also have a 4" lift with Shackle reversal addine approx 1" more of lift.

 

[Gumby]

While flat might be better, the arm doesn't care if it's going up or down as long as it doesn't bind. You don't look like you have enough angle to worry about. Your bump steer might have more to do with the length of the arms acting on the relay rod.

 

[pappy]

My drag link has more angle than that, in the opposite direction, and I have no steering issues at all. I agree with others that it's probably your caster angle.

 

[Pin_Head]

While flat might be better, the arm doesn't care if it's going up or down as long as it doesn't bind. You don't look like you have enough angle to worry about. Your bump steer might have more to do with the length of the arms acting on the relay rod.

X2

The only difference in the angle you have is that the truck will tend to steer the opposite direction (to the left) on bump compression.

 

[Poser]

Go back the driver rear tire up a dirt pile and have someone watch the right front suspension bottom out; your drag link will hit your frame.

There is more space between the bump stop and axle than there is between the drag link and frame. Remember that the axle will deflect forward because you have shackles in the front.


Drag link needs to come into the bottom of the steering arm...

 

[pbgbottle]

that would work . also the rear drag link would give you more clearance if it was mounted on the bottom of the steering arms also ,the rear one looks close to the frame also .
do you have any more pics i would love to see more pics of lukes arms mounted on a spring under rig



''''''

Go back the driver rear tire up a dirt pile and have someone watch the right front suspension bottom out; your drag link will hit your frame.

There is more space between the bump stop and axle than there is between the drag link and frame. Remember that the axle will deflect forward because you have shackles in the front.


Drag link needs to come into the bottom of the steering arm...

 

[chappysfj40]

good afternoon, easy way to remember caster or camber, think of the wheels on a shopping cart, those are casters,
and they way they move is much like the caster on your truck. at least this is how it was explained to me. if i am way off just let me know so i can educate my self.

cheers

chappy

Those look like extended shackles. That can cause caster (or is it camber?) angle problems, wander, and squirleyness. Get some 4* shims to rotate the axle back.
PMK

 

[Gumby]

That's how I explain it to my students. Glad to hear it sticks.

 

[petescoffee]

While flat might be better, the arm doesn't care if it's going up or down as long as it doesn't bind. You don't look like you have enough angle to worry about. Your bump steer might have more to do with the length of the arms acting on the relay rod.

Why is that?

Also someone told me that having whell spacers adds to the bump steer. Is that true or myth?

 

[Poser]

that would work . also the rear drag link would give you more clearance if it was mounted on the bottom of the steering arms also ,the rear one looks close to the frame also .
do you have any more pics i would love to see more pics of lukes arms mounted on a spring under rig



''''''

What is a "rear drag link"?



Pretty sure the TIE ROD (not rear drag link) is going into the steering arms from the bottom currently...