My '72 is in the body shop and will be getting a really nice paint job. Body guy will be using lead and is a perfectionist. He is aware that the spot welds are somewhat visible and wants to replicate them in the paint while making sure that the panels are perfectly flat. Thoughts on the necessity of visible spot welds if the proper rust prevention is taking place? I have been documenting every step and will have pictures of bare metal after media blasting and then epoxy primer.
Is replicating spot welds on quarters/rockers necessary? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jdc1
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upperblack
SILVER Star
IMHO spots welds ad to the originality and therefore the value.
I would say keep them if you can.
I would say keep them if you can.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
The real money builds eliminate them... See fj.co icon etc....
But it's your rig...
For me, I'm eliminating them from now on...
But it's your rig...
For me, I'm eliminating them from now on...
Just out of curiousity, what are the preferred alternatives? Adhesive or running a bead?
On a seperate note, did the factory in the late 70s have reoccurring placement or was it a bit inconsistent? I was just planning on doing them a couple inches apart.
On a seperate note, did the factory in the late 70s have reoccurring placement or was it a bit inconsistent? I was just planning on doing them a couple inches apart.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
The spot welds are not eliminated they are just not left visible. They are filled in with body filler and sanded smooth. A true correct restoration would leave them.
What a waste of time! Make the panel flat (as it should be) and recreate the spot weld with the paint (air brush). that must cost a small fortune. More dollars than sense!
Good flat panel and a good paint job without any embellishments is the way to go.
Dyno
Good flat panel and a good paint job without any embellishments is the way to go.
Dyno
With LandCruisers, people look for spotwelds on survivors, not on restorations.
I always thought that the spot welds kept getting bigger with time, due to rust on the inside of double wall panels that were spot welded (swelling rust makes panel strain against spot weld). I'm sure new 40's might have had spot welds that show, I bet they might not have showed as much as they do 45 years later.
My bigger concern is: does anyone know how to stop the corrosion going on inside my old spot welded hardtop?
My bigger concern is: does anyone know how to stop the corrosion going on inside my old spot welded hardtop?
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
Either pull apart or use a liquid solution. After sandblasting I use a rust converter and spray the hell out of the seams . If the seam is showing any swelling then you have to pull apart and repair.
And it is true, a resto should not show spot welds. An original example should, as it gives you the best guage of rust and potential issues.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
A restoration that is trying for complete accuracy should leave the spot welds visible, IMO. This isn't the goal of most 'restorations' however. Most are trying for something with an OEM look but with improvements. I don't think there are any rules though as you are defining, it's just a matter of personal preference.
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thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
It is personal preference . true true...
But there's no such thing as a completely accurate restoration . I've seen some awesome examples but we will never see a resto thats the same as a factory fresh example. Impossible...
So the OP should do whatever they feel is right for them. (Make em.smooth
But there's no such thing as a completely accurate restoration . I've seen some awesome examples but we will never see a resto thats the same as a factory fresh example. Impossible...
So the OP should do whatever they feel is right for them. (Make em.smooth
This is how meticulous this body guy is...he doesn't want the panel to go out not flat, and if we want them there he will put them there but not sacrifice a flat panel. He is really good but very stringent in what he does. an admirable trait for a body guy, or anyone for that matter. I vote for flat no spot welds on this one.
I honestly didnt know the spot welds looked like that from the factory!! That was 12 years ago when i was green to cruisers haha. At 1st i didnt care for them but once i knew thats the way things were i grew to like them. Got into an argument with a heep guy who said they look s***ty i should fix them. Would i cover them when i repait yah good chance but yah never know. All in the eye of the beholder i guess.
An opinion and nothing more. . .
Ask yourself if you like the look of the spot welds.
Id prefer my panels be smooth. I go thru the trouble of body (metal) work, block sanding, filling primer, etc. to eliminate dents, dings, and such -- spot welds are just another imperfection to my eye. I know that is how the truck was delivered from the factory (with "divits") but as you said you've taken a few steps up from factory anyway. I think a smooth surface is more pleasing to the eye in general. . . I prefer a smooth surface on a lady vs. a lumpy bumpy one!
All that being said I will probably not be able to eliminate every spot weld on my build. . . but I will try to get most of them.
Go with what YOU like, your truck will draw looks and compliments either way.
Ask yourself if you like the look of the spot welds.
Id prefer my panels be smooth. I go thru the trouble of body (metal) work, block sanding, filling primer, etc. to eliminate dents, dings, and such -- spot welds are just another imperfection to my eye. I know that is how the truck was delivered from the factory (with "divits") but as you said you've taken a few steps up from factory anyway. I think a smooth surface is more pleasing to the eye in general. . . I prefer a smooth surface on a lady vs. a lumpy bumpy one
!All that being said I will probably not be able to eliminate every spot weld on my build. . . but I will try to get most of them.
Go with what YOU like, your truck will draw looks and compliments either way.
