Is paying 4k worth it for that extra inch of lift? (1 Viewer)

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Dec 19, 2020
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Location
Bunbury
Hey everyone
I'm new here, just signed up, I bought a 80 series about 2 months ago, and she is bog stock. I'm wanting to know if spending the extra money on getting a 3 inch over a 2 inch lift is worth the $4000 they're asking for .is it worth lashing out the extra money on the radius arms and that extra inch of clearance?
The car will have 33s and used for moderate 4×4
I'm starting to lean toward the 2 inch mainly because of cost unless someone can talk me into it.
If anyone knows a cheaper option or stores around WA , Australia let me know cheers
 
I run 33s on my bone stock 80 an I don't have too many issues with clearance. i wouldn't fork out the dough for an extra inch of clearance. personally I'd go for the 2 incher
 
If you want to stick to 33’s don’t go bigger than 2”. As it is 33’s look small even on 2”. 3” it looks silly. In my opinion.
 
its not worth it..2inch or 2.5 is the way to go for 33's....
 
Once you start above 2.5" problems increase the higher you go.
Driveshaft alignment issues, pinion angle, caster, driveability.

Yes, it can be obtained, but it takes more time and money.
 
its not worth it..2inch or 2.5 is the way to go for 33's....
Agreed. I'm running 33's on my OME 2.5 inch lift, running great. A 3 inch would definitely make it look silly.
 
I was stock height on 33"s. 👍
Went to 3.5" front and 2.5" rear lift. (33"s look a bit undersized)
Next set of tires will probably be 35" (considered 37" but I don't want to have to do a bunch of trimming)
I have no clearance issues BUT I would like to have more tire so when I air down there's a bit more rubber to compress over rocks. Also 35" will provide a little more axle clearance. (Lot of rocks in the mountains surrounding me)
 
How is cross continent shipping down there? If you had to get something from Brisbane to Perth for an example, would that shipping cost cancel out any retail savings?
Are you looking at a lift system we can get here in the States so anyone could chime in with user experience?
 
Maybe I've got a slightly different opinion but in my 20 years of owning and driving an 80 and having them range from stock height up to 6" of lift and everything in between, I think that 3" lift is the sweet spot on an 80. 33" tires might be the size planned right now, but chances are high that at some point down the road you'll consider 35's. 35's will still fit on the 2" lift but it will work better overall with 3" of lift. 3" will even work with 37's. Trying to do that with 2" takes a whole lot more work and cutting.

As for the extra cost, going to 3" does NOT require new radius arms. New radius arms are great to have but not a requirement. I have had stock radius arms with caster plates on every lift height I've run. I still have stock radius arms with Slee caster plates. Caster plates are an inexpensive solution that effectively corrects caster. If you still want aftermarket radius arms you can put that off until your budget allows, or never and still be fine.

For aftermarket arms there are a few good options. DeltaVS, and Blackhawk are my personal choice. the Slee arms are also good.

Here's my 3" lift and 37's. Again, I really think it's the sweet spot. Keeps the lift height relatively low so vehicle behavior and dynamics are comfortable and not scary with a higher center of gravity. And also enough lift to fit larger tires if you want to.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 
I have the dobinsons 2 inch tapered coils on 35s . Love the height and ride. That being said, to get the extra articulation out of the tapered springs (down travel) I would need to get all the things that really up the price. Haven't done so yet, but when I do I may just go to 3 inch. Arms, panhards, etc.
I would recomend them as you can get the 3 inch lift with 5 inches of shock/ travel without the high center of gravity
 
Don't drop heaps your suspension now if you are going to modify the rig down the path. If you are confident 2" is all you want, spend the extra on really good shocks, I.e king, icon, fox.
 
I have a 3” on mine and stock radius arms. Goes down the road just fine on 35s. Don’t overthink this. Base line, toss on 33s and have a good time.

Its not a car....
 
I went partial hog, 3" ICON stage one lift with Delta VS arms, and panhard bracket.
I'm rolling on 33's and I like the way it looks. If it gets much higher I'll need to carry a mounting block, but then I have a 27" inseam, so not exactly built for climbing.

Part of my future, far future, plan is re-gear, lockers and 37's so the 3"lift was done as a preemptive move.
 
Maybe I've got a slightly different opinion but in my 20 years of owning and driving an 80 and having them range from stock height up to 6" of lift and everything in between, I think that 3" lift is the sweet spot on an 80. 33" tires might be the size planned right now, but chances are high that at some point down the road you'll consider 35's. 35's will still fit on the 2" lift but it will work better overall with 3" of lift. 3" will even work with 37's. Trying to do that with 2" takes a whole lot more work and cutting.

As for the extra cost, going to 3" does NOT require new radius arms. New radius arms are great to have but not a requirement. I have had stock radius arms with caster plates on every lift height I've run. I still have stock radius arms with Slee caster plates. Caster plates are an inexpensive solution that effectively corrects caster. If you still want aftermarket radius arms you can put that off until your budget allows, or never and still be fine.

For aftermarket arms there are a few good options. DeltaVS, and Blackhawk are my personal choice. the Slee arms are also good.

Here's my 3" lift and 37's. Again, I really think it's the sweet spot. Keeps the lift height relatively low so vehicle behavior and dynamics are comfortable and not scary with a higher center of gravity. And also enough lift to fit larger tires if you want to.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Did you have to do trimming to fit those? It has a nice stance. I've got 3.5 front and 2.5 rear...
 
The extra 1" of lift is not worth that much extra in my opinion. For moderate wheeling the 1" difference in lift is not likely going to become an issue. Although, at least here in the states, the cost difference between a 2" and a 3" lift is no where near that amount (closer to $500us vs $3000us you are seeing). Heck I didn't pay $3000 total for my ICON lift and DVS radius arms.

And FWIW I don't think 33's look bad on a 3 inch lift. 35's probably look better, and I'll likely end up there when these tires wear out, but I am not so bothered by them that I feel the need to replace right away.
 
Dobinson Tapered springs front and rear for $400 per pair, Dobinson IMS shocks for $500 per pair. Essentially, $1800 for a 3.5 - 4" lift not including swaybar drop brackets (DIY), caster correction (DIY or plates), bump stop extensions (DIY), or double carden driveshaft ($300). If you are lifting this much, go with 35's and use the remaining cash to plan for a regear.
 
Hey everyone
I'm new here, just signed up, I bought a 80 series about 2 months ago, and she is bog stock. I'm wanting to know if spending the extra money on getting a 3 inch over a 2 inch lift is worth the $4000 they're asking for .is it worth lashing out the extra money on the radius arms and that extra inch of clearance?
The car will have 33s and used for moderate 4×4
I'm starting to lean toward the 2 inch mainly because of cost unless someone can talk me into it.
If anyone knows a cheaper option or stores around WA , Australia let me know cheers


I am running 33's on 861/862's which is barely an inch of lift. Clears just fine.

You don't need 3" of lift for 33's. In fact if will look a bit goofy if you do it.

Cheers
 

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