Installation of 90 degree oil filter adapter on 1FZFE

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so ive figured out the startup rattle......and park in my 5-6 degree angle up driveway. A noticeable near elimination of startup rattle - i figured at some point when i had the pan off id look to do some sort of pan mod to see if i could get the pan to immitate the incline when im out and about on flat ground,

But- this solution could also lie not in the pan but somwhere in the block galley where the incline allows oil to pool in cavities on shutdown.....and pre-lube things on startup.
 
That filter mount (the threaded one on the bottom) looks to be easily swapped..
Just finished installing this newer Ford adapter on my 94 FZJ80 and used this:
Improved Racing Remote Oil Filter Mount Thread Adapter Bung for 3/4 - https://www.improvedracing.com/oil-filter-nipple-adapter-bung-3-4-16-to-m22-1-50.html
It is machined very well and works perfectly, with some Loctite 638 on the adapter side threads to seal, allowing us to use our Toyota oil filters.
 
For those trying out the FL-500S, FWIW my Blackstone UOA 2700mi on 5w30 synthetic:
"Insolubles 0.2%"
"Low insolubles are evidence that the oil filter wasn't overwhelmed by solids from heat, blow-by, and use."

Other follow-ups:
My light seepage seems likely from gasket compression set as shown. ~1/4 of the gasket width is curiously falls inside the adapter ID yet apparently ok per Ford rep. Recommendation was to check/retorque after some driving.
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With that gasket compression loss happening, searched for Ford torque rec for the FL-500S (stubbornly I continued to lube the gasket though):
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Filter cap change
Seems Ford transitioned the FL-500S to 74 mm x 14 flute sometime this year:
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When I was rebuilding my engine I did some fit tests with this adapter on the engine stand. It fits really well with the exception of harness mount on upper oil pan. In the photos it's disconnected because of interference. Bending of the clip can most likely provide the required clearance. Photos below are to help others with visualizing the product installed.

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@logicbyondreaso -

Is this the one you have in your pics?


-Kernals original one/link comes up NLA, but the superseding replacement Summit has looks like what you’re running.

-Did you have to swap the threaded collar that the filter screws to, or is Ford running the same metric pitch that the ‘Yota filter you show mocked in / no need to modify?

Thanks in advance?
 
@logicbyondreaso -

Is this the one you have in your pics?


-Kernals original one/link comes up NLA, but the superseding replacement Summit has looks like what you’re running.

-Did you have to swap the threaded collar that the filter screws to, or is Ford running the same metric pitch that the ‘Yota filter you show mocked in / no need to modify?

Thanks in advance?
Yes that is the new and better one. The collar does need to be swapped if you want to run Yota filters. I plan on using the Ford FL500S due to the pressure relief valve and anti drain back. From what I’ve found it’s a superior design to the Yota and I’m not the type of guy who needs to see the black filter.
 
FWIW this Ford Performance parts shop seems price+shipping competitive:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-pe...-90-degree-for-pushrod-v8-engines/p/M6880B50/

@BenjisBus though a pseudo-Toyota purist myself, my 2nd UOA with FL-500S held oil at 0.2% insolubles (this same result as the 1st oil change, lower end of the 0.5-0.6% they target for gas engines). This was 4400mi 10w40 WallyWorld SuperTech Synthetic Blend towing 2600lb trailer through the Sierra & Rocky Mountain ranges. I'll keep running the FL-500S for awhile.
 
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Yes that is the new and better one. The collar does need to be swapped if you want to run Yota filters. I plan on using the Ford FL500S due to the pressure relief valve and anti drain back. From what I’ve found it’s a superior design to the Yota and I’m not the type of guy who needs to see the black filter.

Thanks for the confirm & I’ll have to re-visit the filters to see the deal.

I still have 2 or so small ‘Yota filters, but grand scale if the Ford is that much better then I don’t mind passing them off to someone else.
 
Anyone know where to get replacement O-rings for the old Ford adapter? I had to take mine off for some maintenance and saw that the O-rings are starting to get hard. I put it back on and it doesn't leak as of now but want to find replacements to have them handy in the future.
 
These 90 degree brackets come on various RZ and TR 4 cylinder engines. I have no idea if they will work/adapt/clear on the 1FZ.

The first two are similar in appearance.

15609-75010 USA Taco 2RZ FE spin on
15609-75050 non-USA TR spin on
15609-75080 non-USA TR cartridge
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I have a used M-6880-A50 for sale. It needs new O-rings because the originals are pretty hard (you can buy replacements through McMaster Carr), but I will include the old O-rings. HOWEVER this version doesn't need a filter adapter to work like the new version. Has some surface rust on the large bolt that can be cleaned up, but otherwise in working condition.

SOLD

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I have a used M-6880-A50 for sale. It needs new O-rings because the originals are pretty hard (you can buy replacements through McMaster Carr), but I will include the old O-rings. HOWEVER this version doesn't need a filter adapter to work like the new version. Has some surface rust on the large bolt that can be cleaned up, but otherwise in working condition.

$80 shipped, but make an offer!

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I took a quick glance, but didn't see it. If you post this in the classified section it should sell quick.
 
Just finished installing this newer Ford adapter on my 94 FZJ80 and used this:
Improved Racing Remote Oil Filter Mount Thread Adapter Bung for 3/4 - https://www.improvedracing.com/oil-filter-nipple-adapter-bung-3-4-16-to-m22-1-50.html
It is machined very well and works perfectly, with some Loctite 638 on the adapter side threads to seal, allowing us to use our Toyota oil filters.
Stupid Q, but how did you remove the existing adapter from the Ford unit to install the Improved Racing one?? I expect it unscrews but I have as of yet been unsuccessful and don’t want to totally destroy it.
 
Stupid Q, but how did you remove the existing adapter from the Ford unit to install the Improved Racing one?? I expect it unscrews but I have as of yet been unsuccessful and don’t want to totally destroy it.
It just unscrews, lefty loosey. I believe it's a standard sized socket around 1", I used an impact and it came right off. But used a long ratchet/loctite to put on the new one.
 
It has an A
Stupid Q, but how did you remove the existing adapter from the Ford unit to install the Improved Racing one?? I expect it unscrews but I have as of yet been unsuccessful and don’t want to totally destroy it.
To remove the adapter you use a large allen wrench that fits inside the fitting. See closeup of photo shared above. Might be an M12
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