Final consensus on oil filter
- Thread starter Herrett
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I have read a few stories on Wix and Fram filters failing causing engine failures, a couple on this site. Afterwords, they would not stand behind their warranty.
There was also a pretty comprehensive review on oil filter several years ago on GM Truck Central. I switched to the Mobil 1 filters as a result. But may go back to Mr. T. Also have the 90 filter adapter on mine and love it!
There was also a pretty comprehensive review on oil filter several years ago on GM Truck Central. I switched to the Mobil 1 filters as a result. But may go back to Mr. T. Also have the 90 filter adapter on mine and love it!
The 90* filter adapter makes sense for this reason: When doing an oil change, you can fill the filter up with oil and screw it on without dumping oil all over the place. Filling the filter with oil reduces the interval of no oil in pump system during the 1st startup after the oil change. Yeah it's not a big deal, but it helps to be kind to your engine. I don't have the 90* adapter but instead run an Amsoil remote dual full flow & bypass filter housing that situates the filters as if they were on the 90* adapter. The bypass filter alone holds about a qt of oil that increases the capacity for an oil change.
Here's the OEM filter position with hoses attached to an adapter:
Filters sit behind the driver's side custom mudflap:
Another custom mud flap (easily removable for oil changes) is seen beneath the filters for projectile protection. Bypass filter on left and full flow on right. The connecting hoses can also be seen:
Here's the OEM filter position with hoses attached to an adapter:
Filters sit behind the driver's side custom mudflap:
Another custom mud flap (easily removable for oil changes) is seen beneath the filters for projectile protection. Bypass filter on left and full flow on right. The connecting hoses can also be seen:
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Buy one and report back
The filter casting is mounted to an 'L' shaped bracket with 4 bolts. This bracket is mounted to the wheel well with 4 more bolts. I pulled up the carpet near the dead pedal to accomplish this. The only other pic is a poor one that shows the hose routing between the engine and filter casting. Hoses run along frame between upper DS shock mount and tranny dipstick. This location was a second attempt at it. 1st attempt the filters were mounted under the driver's seat horizontally and was obviously not the best choice when it came time to change filters.
I was an Amsoil distributor for a short time back in the 1980's and had catalogs, so was familiar with their products. I believe you can still get the remote mounting kit. I'm no longer up to date with Amsoil other than using their oil and filters in my 80. I also use their synthetic gear oil and ATF.
I installed this setup 25 yrs ago, within a year after I bought the rig used, with 125K mi. Currently there's 299K+. I sent in samples for the 1st 5 yrs and was getting 15K to 25K miles between oil changes. I'd change just the filters every 5K, keeping the same oil. That was back when it was used as a DD. For the last 15 yrs, it hasn't been a DD and I've been changing both filters and oil every 5K, just to be safe. With the local 4 season climate, condensation can mix with the oil and attack bearings even with the low usage it gets now. Yes, the oil stays cleaner looking longer, but with the experience of past sample results I know when to do the oil maintenance. The engine still runs like new, except for a noisy oil pump. The oil pressure is still solid. I need to do a 300K engine maintenance - gaskets, hoses, minor oil leaks, etc... injectors if necessary and take care of the oil pump. At that time I'll get an oil sample analyzed. Yes I know it's more expensive to run Amsoil at this schedule, but the trade off is I expect the lower end to still be solid with good compression and reasonably tight bearings for the mileage.
FWIW there is a good video on youtube about a diesel Powerstroke engine that had a similar dual filter set-up installed when the vehicle was just a month old, then driven for ~900,000 miles (with frequent oil changes) until a lifter failed. When they tore that engine part they found the main bearings to have almost no wear. The failure of the lifter was determined to be due to metal fatigue of the pin bearings for the roller and not related to lubrication.
Dave's Auto now sells his own version of that "Insane" filter for Diesels, not cheap but better than buying a new engine:
Dave's Auto now sells his own version of that "Insane" filter for Diesels, not cheap but better than buying a new engine:
I've had bad luck with fram and K&n. Fram for letting the top end dry out over night and rattle on startup and k&n not sealed up unless you really crank that thing on(comes off with a screwdriver though). No issues with moble1 or oem. Some people like using an acdelco filter that is supposed to be big and good. No experience.
I have done a lot of research on Fram because of all the different reports, ranging from "it destroyed my engine" to "they are awesome". The first thing I have learned is that a lot of different brand filters look the same on the inside. The Fram Extraguard and Toughguard are completely different filters than the Ultra Synthetic and Synthetic Endurance. Youtube search for the videos testing the filters and cutting them open. The lengths some of these guys go to is incredible.
First thing I want to say is that I have a 3FE which has the filter completely upside down. The drain back valve has to be good for this application because all the oil draining out of the filter causes oil starvation on start up. I originally tried the Wix line and had the valve train noise for the first few minutes of operation. The NAPA line at that time was the Wix filters. Gold, Platinum, it did not mater. I then tried the Fram Ultra synthetic because it has a great looking drain back valve. It looks like an upside down funnel instead of a flat donut. I then tried the Synthetic Endurance because the filter media is higher quality and the case is a lot thicker. I use either of those 2 now but I prefer the Synthetic Endurance. Both keep the valvetrain quiet at start up.
First thing I want to say is that I have a 3FE which has the filter completely upside down. The drain back valve has to be good for this application because all the oil draining out of the filter causes oil starvation on start up. I originally tried the Wix line and had the valve train noise for the first few minutes of operation. The NAPA line at that time was the Wix filters. Gold, Platinum, it did not mater. I then tried the Fram Ultra synthetic because it has a great looking drain back valve. It looks like an upside down funnel instead of a flat donut. I then tried the Synthetic Endurance because the filter media is higher quality and the case is a lot thicker. I use either of those 2 now but I prefer the Synthetic Endurance. Both keep the valvetrain quiet at start up.
Its a simple chunk of metal. No moving parts.
If it "malfunctioned", really only due to operator error. Or, the filter attached was at fault
Do the hoses drain when the filter is removed? Or when the engine is sitting?
Early tpyota 2H diesel engines had a centrifugal oil filter set up ( some LandRover and Isuzu diesels used them too i believe) people have adapted these to other engines with good results in terms of extending oil change intervals and keeping oil cleaner by removing finer particles
I would have to say yes they do. When I crack the filters loose, there is excess oil that flows out other than what’s in the filters. So I would have to say yes to that. Not so when the engine is sitting though, but how would you know? There’s never been any excessive noise.
I was ordering some oil for my LX570 and looked at the filter that Amsoil spec's for the 1FZ and they show the EAO15 part number as fitting the 1FZ. This filter seems bigger than the normal 90915-YZZD3 filter. I then looked at the specs on all of the oil filters they sell and noticed the EAO26 filter has the same thread size, same gasket size, same everything except its over an inch longer than the EAO15 filter.
I have not read anything about anyone using the EAO26 filter. I only bought it because I had some reward points to spend with Amsoil and figured I would order it and find out what it looks like against an OEM filter.
90915-YZZD3 seems like the small filter
15600-41010 is the NLA filter and I'm betting the Amsoil EAO15 filter is the same size
EAO26 seems even larger (longer)
I'm also still trying to figure out if the 90915-30002 Twin element filter will work on the 1FZ, or why its only meant for the diesel engines. Is the thread size the same from the diesel and the 1FZ?
I have not read anything about anyone using the EAO26 filter. I only bought it because I had some reward points to spend with Amsoil and figured I would order it and find out what it looks like against an OEM filter.
90915-YZZD3 seems like the small filter
15600-41010 is the NLA filter and I'm betting the Amsoil EAO15 filter is the same size
EAO26 seems even larger (longer)
I'm also still trying to figure out if the 90915-30002 Twin element filter will work on the 1FZ, or why its only meant for the diesel engines. Is the thread size the same from the diesel and the 1FZ?
I don't remember if its the thread size or o-ring size but it doesn't fit I did try it once.
probably not very difficult to make an adapter or get one of those right angle adapters and modify that to make it work.
the twin element filter is sweet.
I watched a guy on U Tube who is a Toyota expert, He's called the car care nut. He did a story on Toyota factory parts, and how to tell real factory parts from counterfeit ones. In the case of REAL Toyota oil filters, they will all have a small round holographic sticker on the top of the box.
The ones sold by Walmart do in fact have this sticker, it is hidden underneath the white UPC label that Walmart puts on each box. I know this is true because i pealed that white UPC label off of the box before i bought the filter, and underneath that white label was the factory Toyota holographic sticker.
The best filter if the one, which complies to:
1. Filter doesn't have a bypass valve inside the filter. This is most important. The tests have been done on that valve (installed the micro switcher to indicate when it is opened). When the filter is new, valve opens only under cold oil conditions (below 0C and 32F) and/or high RPM. When the filter runs over 1000 miles, valve opens always after 3000 rpms, when the filter runs over 1500-2000 miles, valve opens every time after 2000 rpms even with completely hot engine. So, other words, oil runs the engine without filtering. Moreover, due to the internal construction of the oil filter, 50% of dirt, accumulated inside the filter for the first 1000 miles, starts to be washed out from the filter through bypass valve back to the engine. Finally, this filter never cleans your engine oil system properly - it does it partially.
2. Filter paper should be big (long) enough and a good quality. You don't know about that untill open up the filter, and factory filters for passenger cars/SUVs are very small.
All consumer filters for usual cars have the above mentioned problems. The solution is to changer the filter on a one with BIG replaceable cartridge from commercial trucks. Fisst of all, most of commercial oil systems have a standalone bypass valve, located before the filter element. Secondly, the size this filter allows to use it without bypass valve on smaller systems.
So, my friend Den implemented this idea on his TLC80 4 years ago, and on my TLC80 1 year ago. Both cars are diesels 1HD-FT. The result is perfect - after first oil/filter change, oil stays clear for a 1000-2000 km. Before that, with original Toyota filters, oil started to get dark color right after oil change - it was the usual situation for our diesel engine.
Additional bonus is +1.5 liters of oil into the system. Also oil stays inside filter body all the time. Filter body was made out of the stainless steel.
for what its worth ive been using the 90915-40002 for about the last 5 years on mine and no issues whatsoever. Its what Toyota here in Melbourne recommended as the replacement for the 1560041010
haven't noticed any difference in oil pressure etc & change them every 4-6 mths and the oil is still very clean at change intervals.
One thing i did notice is that when you remove them they don't spill as much oil on the side of the block compared to the 15600-41010 - don't know if its cause of their volume or the anti drain valve being a better seal?
i do have two 15600-41010 filters still and am keeping them as heirlooms
haven't noticed any difference in oil pressure etc & change them every 4-6 mths and the oil is still very clean at change intervals.
One thing i did notice is that when you remove them they don't spill as much oil on the side of the block compared to the 15600-41010 - don't know if its cause of their volume or the anti drain valve being a better seal?
i do have two 15600-41010 filters still and am keeping them as heirlooms