Impending Vortec Swap (1 Viewer)

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A few tuners and commodore owners around where i live (the SS commodores in aus use the LS series engines) reckon the MAF sensor provides a restrction in the intake piping, how much i dont know, plus i plan on going forced induction and apparently the difference in pressures in the intake manifold screw with this reading, once again not sure on how much, but just what ive been told.

The same guys also reckon if you delete the MAF sensor, the MAP and the IAT sensors do the MAF job anyway?
 
A properly tuned speed/density (AKA Mafless) setup can work very well.. I don't know about currently, but ALL Hondas used to be speed/density. For something that used to use a MAF to be converted, it depends on the tuner. Small differences in exhaust/intake can have a big impact on the mass of air is going into the engine at a given RPM/throttle/atmospheric pressure/load. The only real way to dial this in is to stick it on a dyno with a wide-band meter and an experienced tuner.
 
@tractorpole

4" OD joiner - 4" OD X 3" STAINLESS STEEL INTAKE/TURBO INTERCOOLER PIPING EXTENSOR/JOINER PIPE
4" ID 45* 4 ply - 4-PLY 4" ID 45 DEGREE BLACK SILICONE HOSE TURBO/AIR INTAKE/INTERCOOLER PIPE
4" ID 90* 4 ply - 4-PLY 4.0" ID 90 DEGREE BLACK SILICONE HOSE TURBO/AIR INTAKE/INTERCOOLER PIPE
4" x 3" ID reducer - 3" To 4" Straight Reducer Silicone Hose Coupler Intercooler Intake Pipe Black

$39.52 for everything shipped. Some prices may have changed a bit.

I ordered mishimoto CT clamps from summit @ $6.60/clamp x 6 clamps. total is $79.12 w/ fancy clamps, but you can do for much less.
 
@tractorpole

4" OD joiner - 4" OD X 3" STAINLESS STEEL INTAKE/TURBO INTERCOOLER PIPING EXTENSOR/JOINER PIPE
4" ID 45* 4 ply - 4-PLY 4" ID 45 DEGREE BLACK SILICONE HOSE TURBO/AIR INTAKE/INTERCOOLER PIPE
4" ID 90* 4 ply - 4-PLY 4.0" ID 90 DEGREE BLACK SILICONE HOSE TURBO/AIR INTAKE/INTERCOOLER PIPE
4" x 3" ID reducer - 3" To 4" Straight Reducer Silicone Hose Coupler Intercooler Intake Pipe Black

$39.52 for everything shipped. Some prices may have changed a bit.

I ordered mishimoto CT clamps from summit @ $6.60/clamp x 6 clamps. total is $79.12 w/ fancy clamps, but you can do for much less.
Cool thanks!
 
Autometer gauges showed up.... Going to mount oil and Trans temp on the pillar.

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I was kind of hoping the wiring would be included, but it's not. For the price, Dakota digital is a much better buy IMO if you can live with their designs.
 
I'm going to regret the heidts regulator on power steering system, but it is in and plumbed. Working on the oil/trans/power steering coolers.

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What was the purpose of the heidts regulator? Does the Toyota box need pressure reduced from GM pump?
 
@bloc, I believe the GM pump is much higher P, steering box will be fine, but can candy cane the steering link? I can easily remove if I don't like it.

RE: wiring alt and starter - I plan to run 8 ga fusible link from battery to alternator (pretty short run), then 4 ga from alt to starter. Any reason this shouldn't work. That way, I just need to replace the fusible link from the battery to the alternator and everything should be protected??????
 
whats nice about the power steering regulator is you can fine tune your steering feel to your liking! I know myself Ill be running a hydro assist while im at it to help with my 37s lol
 
You'll need to work on the hydro boost return line, passenger side firewall and the steering box. I had to cut my hydro boost line, tap and then welded bolt in. It is a very tight fit and if you retain hydro boost you may need to relocate pump.
 
i plan on tapping my steering Box, for the hydroassist, the hydroboost off the pump im hoping to retain and switch to hydroboosted brakes

All tough to say until i can really get the motor in place and start working out the small details which arguably take longer than anything.....

currently my alternator sits on the left as the motor is setup with a camaro waterpump and bracketery so the alternator runs on the left versus right
 
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Finally finished my Fuse block.

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So, spent about 2 hours last night and an hour this morning trying to figure out why I had no juice in the cab. Everything checked out when I grounded back to battery. Note for noobs like me, battery must be grounded.
 
Hahaha thats good :D
 
There are sort of three systems which run independent of the gm harness. Technically, 4 for me with the Dcc fan controller. But, fuel pump is running when I put 12v to an extended mrly wire. Fuse block has juice and the 8 circuits I have off the block are working both the all the time and the with ignition. Starter is run, but I can't find the nut for the signal wire, so I haven't tried yet.

I have to run wires to emissions equipment, evap vent, fuel tank pressure and o2 sensors. I'll layout exhaust to the post cat ho2s. Still need to do shift linkage, both tcase and transmission. A few fittings left for coolers I'm waiting on....

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Alternator wiring. 8 GA fusible. Battery to alt. 4 GA alt to starter.

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Battery with pcm.

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Metri pack on Toyota efi wire. This feeds juice to my fuel pump.

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The fuse block I built vs current performance fuse block. I have a second I will add, which will add 6 relays and up to 12 additional hot all the time fuses. My 2 blocks will be about the same size as the current performance. Not quite apples to apples, as current runs 2 fan relays, starter and fuel pump relays. But, my relays aren't as loaded and I can easily add with my second block, plus a few extras. My block will also be ip66 water resistant.
 
Are you labeling your wires, you probably are but this one is a favorite one of mine: Cable Ties and More Just a FYI.
 
Starter cranks. Finally found the correct oil filter for the F body pan. AC delco pf48.

Spent the day doing exhaust to the second o2 sensors. I'm really bad at welding, but it is passable. Curious, anyone know what flange gasket for the hooker 8501 headers? The bolt Size is 10x1.5 for those looking around for such info...

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Just need to run a few more wires and then rerpin everything. Then the moment of truth....probsbly at least 2 more weeks...
 
Starter cranks. Finally found the correct oil filter for the F body pan. AC delco pf48.

Spent the day doing exhaust to the second o2 sensors. I'm really bad at welding, but it is passable. Curious, anyone know what flange gasket for the hooker 8501 headers? The bolt Size is 10x1.5 for those looking around for such info...

View attachment 1326363


Just need to run a few more wires and then rerpin everything. Then the moment of truth....probsbly at least 2 more weeks...
Hooker 8501-5HKR Hooker Exhaust Manifolds - Holley Performance Products

  • 2 bolt exit flange configuration matches 2010 Camaro (also the same as the E-rod exhaust manifolds) which can be used with OE gaskets and fasteners if desired, for an OE quality seal
**EDIT**
Found the gasket p/n
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-92202326
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12617944
 
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