since this hurricane has me all kinda messed up i am not on my computer and cant add those part numbers to my spreadsheets. can you make sure to take note of those in yours. having off the shelf heater hoses that fit great is a huge help.
Impending Vortec Swap (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter lazy
- Start date
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Not sure if it's too late but take a read on Walker Quiet Flow mufflers. They come in stainless and aluminized. I am likely going to try one on my 80 but have not yet, so no real time help, but they seem nice and a lot of guys on other performance forums like them.
This is what I went with but I'm using the factory 80 radiator for now... But it came with hoses to use the vortecs heater nipples... Makes plumbing the heater in a sinch... But that can be accomplished easily with straight hose of the correct diameter...
Radiator & Heater Hose Kit LS Series V8 to 80 series LandCruiser
Radiator & Heater Hose Kit LS Series V8 to 80 series LandCruiser
hmmmm that kit looks promising, however I know myself Ill be getting the rad from Steel Nutz
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Why do the majority of guys seem to be swapping rads for their conversion? I can see if the stock one is on its way out and NEEDS replacing, but the stock rad can easily keep these motors cool.
- Thread starter
- #306
Rumored to be not necessary. And I believe you don't need to upgrade the rad. With KYC 1918 going for $125, you can definitely do that. But you also need a shroud to be made if using stock rad and mechanical fan. But then, are going to update the mechanical fan clutch? Juice it? If you're not careful, you can start to get into a territory where a sweet radiator makes sense.
I love my radiator, and I bet you would dry hump it. Men have spent more than $1400 for that type of thrill....
I'm a cheap ass, and using fans out of a Lincoln mk VIII that I had slated for another project that I didn't use... Besides I just spent 100 clams on having the OE brass rad brazed and pressure tested.... I'm the if it ain't broke don't fix it type, but this whole swap for me is on a budget of 5k so every doll hair I can save I've been trying to do so... Minus the hoses from Marks4wd and a part time kit (hoping for a few more MPG's)
bloc
SILVER Star
Brazed just the core? OE FZJ radiators all had plastic tanks.
And personally I was hoping the GM fan clutch didn't need juicing.
I totally understand using what you've got but have seen a few guys using nice electric fan setups on vortec swaps switch to mechanical due to temps.
Can't remember who but someone posted a universal summit fan shroud that worked on the factory radiator very well.. which is what I planned to do.
And personally I was hoping the GM fan clutch didn't need juicing.
I totally understand using what you've got but have seen a few guys using nice electric fan setups on vortec swaps switch to mechanical due to temps.
Can't remember who but someone posted a universal summit fan shroud that worked on the factory radiator very well.. which is what I planned to do.
For using the GM ECM to control electric fans, as GM designed it. You need two temperature set points, sensors are already installed, and a third input from the a/c system (this a pressure or maybe a flow switch). In my it should be dual speed fans
- Thread starter
- #311
You need to look up the pins on the gm pcm For your year. These are for relay control. Pretty sure you need to do some pcm tune work as well.
Not sure how you get the AC stuff to work. I assumed the pcm may read and process it? The only pin you have on the pcm for AC is the 5v low reference.... So the computer should know when it is on....
Not sure how you get the AC stuff to work. I assumed the pcm may read and process it? The only pin you have on the pcm for AC is the 5v low reference.... So the computer should know when it is on....
The RAD in my '91 FJ (first 80 model) is all brass. Could be from an older FJ I guess, but I thought is was original... The one in my 89 pickup was all brass as well, I just figured all the OE ones were brass? maybe @beno would know?
bloc
SILVER Star
Ah.. I'm more familiar with the 1FZ models.. and sometimes forget 80s came with a whole different engine for a couple years.
Sorry for the confusion.
Sorry for the confusion.
- Thread starter
- #314
I'll need to trim some hoses, but looks like the intake will fit well in terms of angles. I've got a 4" to 3" reducer to go on the other end. Used eBay silicon fittings and was surprising not as expensive as one would think.
When I went through the certification process at the highlands ranch referee station, they looked to make all of the emissions components that go with the donor engine were installed and functioning with no CEL activated. All the emissions readiness monitors have to be showing 'ready' which means the vehicle will have to have enough miles and a full drive cycle completed to set them to ready. I will tell you now it's a royal pain in the ass. I fought the most with the O2 sensors not flipping to ready all because the cats were not quite in the right place. Once I moved them a little closer to the header collectors this solved the issue. I think the problem stemmed from running shorty center dump headers. They didn't do anything to verify the programming and I don't think they have the software to do this. Heck you could even go in with certain tuner software packages and flip all the monitors to go ready every time the engine starts but they could test that by disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting, which should trigger the drive cycle requirement.
Fwiw I still have a left over pcp but it's tuned for a 2006 L33 with a 4l60e with vats disabled. I do not know if it will shift a 4l80. More than welcome to try it out. It looks like you are running DBW throttle so should have the blue/green pcm connectors.
came across this material last night for installing a crate 5.3
P.S What PN & vendor?
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.chevrolet.com_content_dam_Chevrolet_northamerica_usa_nscwebsite_en_Home_Vehicles_Performance_Catalog-5FDownload_02-5Fpdfs_lc9-2Dengine-2Dcontroller-2Dkit-2D19256514-2Dand-2D19259914.pdf&d=DQIFAg&c=Qznq1V5e4u04CfMRj920aPtDqN4RUEToMeZ6oK6t9iY&r=NKEBoRxevQ2Gws0I7K2BGgkhVoMAvpouYXwORXo91ocMQsyPmGRKCw9_oYCAHLn2&m=2V-lL1EBe3ydmuNSEFGXzFenX-pr25diJMguxc0wRT8&s=BEqG9c-qY0g6tDsX4HCt4R_PTWCEv18DGTDi5WyFf_Y&e=
P.S What PN & vendor?
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.chevrolet.com_content_dam_Chevrolet_northamerica_usa_nscwebsite_en_Home_Vehicles_Performance_Catalog-5FDownload_02-5Fpdfs_lc9-2Dengine-2Dcontroller-2Dkit-2D19256514-2Dand-2D19259914.pdf&d=DQIFAg&c=Qznq1V5e4u04CfMRj920aPtDqN4RUEToMeZ6oK6t9iY&r=NKEBoRxevQ2Gws0I7K2BGgkhVoMAvpouYXwORXo91ocMQsyPmGRKCw9_oYCAHLn2&m=2V-lL1EBe3ydmuNSEFGXzFenX-pr25diJMguxc0wRT8&s=BEqG9c-qY0g6tDsX4HCt4R_PTWCEv18DGTDi5WyFf_Y&e=
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Why not just set it up with a mafless tune so you dont need to run the MAF sensor? I did that to mine and its good
tractorpole
SILVER Star
is that one single hose or is it a 45* and a 90*?
do you have a link for that hose?
Thanks,
Ben
i imagine for emissions reasons, I know myself I intend on not running one, its going to suck in cold start applications but ill live with it
I don't really see the logic in this as the MAF is used to measure airflow and fuel calculations while constantly adjusting to improve performance. Maybe I am incorrect but IMO doing a "mafless" tune would be the same as just running a carb (in theory).. or am I missing something?
