I Like Big Brakes and I Cannot Lie!!! (1 Viewer)

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@cruiseroutfit any chance you guys have got your hands on the front LC 300 rotors to see if they would work? Zero issues here with the tundra rotors but it would be nice to get a direct fit.
Or new gen Tundra? Suppose that would make more sense.
 
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@cruiseroutfit any chance you guys have got your hands on the front LC 300 rotors to see if they would work? Zero issues here with the tundra rotors but it would be nice to get a direct fit.
Or new gen Tundra? Suppose that would make more sense.

We do. Measuring to happen this week/next.
 
@cruiseroutfit any chance you guys have got your hands on the front LC 300 rotors to see if they would work? Zero issues here with the tundra rotors but it would be nice to get a direct fit.
Or new gen Tundra? Suppose that would make more sense.
I picked up a set of 2022 Tundra rotors for the setup I am putting together. 6 lug and 353mm diameter. Hub bore had to be opened up from 98mm to 112mm, but otherwise the height and thickness of the rotor matches the 200 series rotor.
 
I picked up a set of 2022 Tundra rotors for the setup I am putting together. 6 lug and 353mm diameter. Hub bore had to be opened up from 98mm to 112mm, but otherwise the height and thickness of the rotor matches the 200 series rotor.
Nice, so did you fit the Wilwood to 17's or are you getting the 4runner OEM calipers to work? With the new hydroboost setup I went with, these brakes are amazing.
 
Nice, so did you fit the Wilwood to 17's or are you getting the 4runner OEM calipers to work? With the new hydroboost setup I went with, these brakes are amazing.
Just placed the order for the Wilwood FNSL6 calipers today and will be trying to stuff them under my 17's. I'm estimating that I'll be able to tear into the rig in a couple weeks so we'll see how good my measurements were haha. Thanks again for doing all the R&D
 
@on the rocks I got everything mocked up today and I am pleased to say that the 14" tundra rotor with the FNSL6 fits under a 17" Method wheel with some room to spare. Note that I have wheel spacers which positioned the wheel towards the outer part of the barrel, which has a bit more clearance. I will try it w/o the spacer once I get everything finalized. Getting the bracket milled down to position the rotor perfectly took 2 tries as the tolerances are very tight as you know.

What brake caliper bolts did you end up going with given the adapter is thinner than the factory caliper? Looks like you used some old bolts, did you just run a tap through the knuckle so the existing bolts could thread all the way through?

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@on the rocks I got everything mocked up today and I am pleased to say that the 14" tundra rotor with the FNSL6 fits under a 17" Method wheel with some room to spare. Note that I have wheel spacers which positioned the wheel towards the outer part of the barrel, which has a bit more clearance. I will try it w/o the spacer once I get everything finalized. Getting the bracket milled down to position the rotor perfectly took 2 tries as the tolerances are very tight as you know.

What brake caliper bolts did you end up going with given the adapter is thinner than the factory caliper? Looks like you used some old bolts, did you just run a tap through the knuckle so the existing bolts could thread all the way through?
Good deal, that would really open up this conversion to a lot more people especially if the newer 6 hole rotors work. More important you don't have a few expensive paperweights!
I'll look on the mounting bolts and reply if not OEM bolts. I had the passenger side knuckle replaced due to a stripped thread I have had forever after this conversion but don't remember replacing them with something else and think I got some OEM bolts. I remember them being longer and sticking out but well within the interior of the rotor if I remember right so had no concern about it and saw no need to replace them or shorten them. No problems to date. No need to tap here.

Don't forget to bleed the tops from outside / in. You should be good on the MC/ booster combo with these but if both are old and original I would suggest replacing them while in there, at lease at some point. While I saw a great improvement here with this combo I had a tired Booster and replacing it took it to a whole other level(went hydro booster here). While these suckers grip like crazy I was noticing the clamping force going downhill or wet conditions was leaving something to be desired. Also, if you go bigger MC I would stick with the 1 1/16 everyone here recommends. 1 1/8" is too stiff. I do have the T100 MC I got from Cruiser outfitters I would give up for a good deal if anyone interested, I went a different direction there.

Hopefully someone here will look into the rears and fit the matching pair. Too much on my plate or I would dive into that next.
 
What's new in the 300 series rotor front?
Well, they're 6-lug already which is nice. And as far as I can tell, they're pretty much identical dimensionally to the later model 200 (16+) and Tundra rotors which makes them *just* too big to fit with the calipers we're using...
 
Not to hijack but been developing a matched front and rear brake upgrade. Will come in two rear choices. Stage 2-Lite and Stage 2-R.

Currently the 2 Lite being tested on the vehicle. But end-game is to do a 2-R, full 14"x1.1" 2pc design with Wilwood calipers and ditching the drum parking brake for Wilwood electronic parking brake. Development of the 2-R will begin soon. But so far Stage 2-Lite setup is a huge step up in performance.

Full technical write-up and lots and lots of photos:
Stopping a 6k lb 80 on 38's better than completely stock


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PSX_20220805_195816 (1).jpg
 
Not to hijack but been developing a matched front and rear brake upgrade. Will come in two rear choices. Stage 2-Lite and Stage 2-R.

Currently the 2 Lite being tested on the vehicle. But end-game is to do a 2-R, full 14"x1.1" 2pc design with Wilwood calipers and ditching the drum parking brake for Wilwood electronic parking brake. Development of the 2-R will begin soon. But so far Stage 2-Lite setup is a huge step up in performance.

Full technical write-up and lots and lots of photos:
Stopping a 6k lb 80 on 38's better than completely stock


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I like the tethered valve stem caps, got a link or name ? thanks
 
Maybe I missed it, but is there an actual before/after comparison on stopping distances with big brake kits, or with different pads? It’s not like we are tracking these things with huge heat buildup , though some heat reg is probably helpful…I would be more interested in 70-0 stopping distance/emergency braking
 
Maybe I missed it, but is there an actual before/after comparison on stopping distances with big brake kits, or with different pads? It’s not like we are tracking these things with huge heat buildup , though some heat reg is probably helpful…I would be more interested in 70-0 stopping distance/emergency braking
There's a similar relation to speed vs the extra weight some of our 80's have. Now I won't have an exact formula to convert x amount of speed = y amount of extra weight. But both in the end are extra load on the braking system. Also keep in mind these brakes are designed for environments 30 years ago. We're driving faster, with more cars on the road now more than ever, and the need to modernize the brakes is highly prominent. Look at all the brakes on modern 4500lb+ SUV's, Trucks, or even large sedans/wagons. There are crossover's that have better braking system than our 3 decade old 80's. :rofl:

I've gone through calculating optimal brake bias for my vehicle, and you can't have a balanced brake system by increasing front braking power and not address the rear accordingly. I have very lengthy and more detailed info on my big brake thread if you feel like having a gander.
 
There's a similar relation to speed vs the extra weight some of our 80's have. Now I won't have an exact formula to convert x amount of speed = y amount of extra weight. But both in the end are extra load on the braking system. Also keep in mind these brakes are designed for environments 30 years ago. We're driving faster, with more cars on the road now more than ever, and the need to modernize the brakes is highly prominent. Look at all the brakes on modern 4500lb+ SUV's, Trucks, or even large sedans/wagons. There are crossover's that have better braking system than our 3 decade old 80's. :rofl:

I've gone through calculating optimal brake bias for my vehicle, and you can't have a balanced brake system by increasing front braking power and not address the rear accordingly. I have very lengthy and more detailed info on my big brake thread if you feel like having a gander.
Yea totally get it (I track a heavy, high HP M car), but I think a comparison with quantifiable data is helpful. Even relatively comparable stopping distance between stock and a built rig with a bbk would be crazy, with all that extra weight. 10-15 feet more would be pretty good honestly from that speed. And tires make a huge difference in stopping my distance as well of course. I was just hoping there was some sort of comparison to before/after or against stock. I’ll check out the other thread as well.
 

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