Big Brake kit upgrade discussion. (1 Viewer)

[MikePL]

We all know the brakes in the 80 series were designed with the 15in wheel in mind and hardly updated till 1997. Tiny-ass rotors, not too big calipers. The braking distance from 30mpg to zero over 300ft was maybe decent 40 years ago, but not now.


Some disclaimers:
1. Yes, I've read numerous threads over here
2. Yes, I've read the thread where a guy makes some custom mounting plates which accept Wilwood rotors, made some Wilwood caliper adapters and it looks nice but my guess is the price will be over $1000 and the pads/rotos might be not as easy and cheap to replace in the future.
3. Yes, I've seen all those big brake kits offered for the 80 series online but they are close and over $2000 so I can't justify buying brakes which cost 1/3 the price of the truck or as much as a decent Nissan Pathfinder or LS400.

I am wondering if anybody has been thinking what I am thinking.

- remove the OEM rotors
- buy 2024 tundra rotors
- increase the center bore from 97mm to 105mm for 50 bucks in any shop with a lathe.
- the center bore will let you put the tundra rotos on top of the flange (not underneath as per factory)
- that will move the rotors towards the outside but the tundra rotors are deeper to compensate for that
- I haven't measured the thickness of the rotor mounting flange but if it is between 18-23mm, we should be able to make it work
- longer wheel studs for around $30
- then, instead of buying Wilwood calipers, one can buy OEM Porsche Brembo 6 piston calipers which are around $250

The only hard (maybe expensive) thing would be machining the adapter for the caliper holes but that's still within $200 a pair. Designing is free and then it's a question of sending the files to a CNC shop. Overall that would place the costs like that: $200 tundra rotors, 250 calipers, $50 center bore machining, $30 studs, $200 adapter machining. Around $700.

Why am I the only one thinking like that? Am I very wrong?

Attached files are the 80 series rotor diagram, the 354mm tundra rotor diagram, the rotor vs flange scenario.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Sounds like a solid plan. Someone needs to make an off-the-shelf kit, ready to ship.

Sounds better priced than the $4000 kits I’ve heard discussed on here before. I can’t justify a $4k brake kit, no way.

 

[MileHigh80Guy]

HOW-TO: 5th Gen 4Runner Brakes on an 80

I'm still finalizing the last few pieces of this upgrade but wanted to share the details with folks. I've seen a few other brake upgrades that involve different rotors and a bit of machining but in my opinion this is the easiest way to get bigger brakes without the extra work. I've seen a few...

forum.ih8mud.com

Similar thought to the 5th Gen upgrade.

Also these, no idea on the function, but reasonable price.

CEIKA Custom Big Brake Kit for Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series (89~97)

We do not make drum-to-disc conversions for this car model. So if your car has rear OE drum brakes, we cannot make the rear. Custom built with race proven design and technology. For everyday street use up to pro racing depending on the specifications chosen. Why choose CEIKA? Order your big...

ceika-store.com

 

[mudgudgeon]

Why am I the only one thinking like that? Am I very wrong?

There's no new ideas under the sun.

Late model 4Runner rotors and calipers have been used in a similar way.

I was keen to do the 4Runner conversion, then realised the biggest expense in doing this is the 18" wheel and tire upgrade needed to clear all the shiny new "cheap OEM big brake kit".

 

[Tyland Cruiser]

Consider Powerstop. They won't break the bank like some of those others that are $2k to $4k. Just had them installed on my 80. Very happy with them so far.

Extreme Truck and Tow Brake Pad and Rotor Kits | PowerStop

Z36 Truck & Tow Brake Kit uses our carbon-fiber ceramic formula for superior braking power. Designed specifically for heavy loads and towing.

www.powerstop.com

 

[MikePL]

1. Thanks for the link to the 4Runner conversion. Looks like a super easy thing to do. I will contemplate doing it if there's not enough time, money, will power. However I prefer to either do nothing or go 'all in' so my idea was to go no smaller than 350mm rotor diameter. A small increase in diameter makes for a lot of leverage so the difference is really worth it. I daily drive a Porsche Cayenne which weighs about as much as a stock FZ80 (yes it does), has around 350mm rotors, 6 piston calipers and stops like crazy. That leads me to the second point and second link...

2. The Ceika brake upgrades are almost nice. Almost, because once you click that you want a 350mm rotor, 6 pistons, you get to almost $2K. And if something happens and you need a new set of pads, a caliper or rotor, you won't get it at autozone or Amazon. Contrary to Tundra, 4Runner or Porsche/Touareg/Q7 parts

3. The Powerstop rotor/pad setup is cheap at a little over $200 but I consider it a band aid solution. There is no way to defy physics. You need leverage (diameter) and pad surface. Both of these are small in the 80 series, even if you use top secret nasa materials.

 

[MikePL]

Oh and I do want to go 18in. I used to drive on 33in tires, the 285/75/16, but going to 18in rims, I can have the same width, the same sidewall height but eventually the size will be 35in. I am talking about going 285/75/18. So I get benefits and no downsides...

- bigger rotors, calipers
- bigger rims are lighter than bigger tires
- 35in tires that drive on-road closer to 33in tires due to the smaller sidewall.
- overall less unsprung and rotational mass

There is no doubt most overlanders drive 90% on road and only 10% off-road so I will really make it somehow with a 33in sidewall and still have rotational and clearance benefits of a 35in tire.

 

[NeverFinis]

Oh and I do want to go 18in. I used to drive on 33in tires, the 285/75/16, but going to 18in rims, I can have the same width, the same sidewall height but eventually the size will be 35in. I am talking about going 285/75/18. So I get benefits and no downsides...

- bigger rotors, calipers
- bigger rims are lighter than bigger tires
- 35in tires that drive on-road closer to 33in tires due to the smaller sidewall.
- overall less unsprung and rotational mass

There is no doubt most overlanders drive 90% on road and only 10% off-road so I will really make it somehow with a 33in sidewall and still have rotational and clearance benefits of a 35in tire.

View attachment 3889942

Following this thread, and I did go with 285/75/18 for future bigger brakes possibilities.

This size also happens to be the stock size for the Ford Super Duty Tremor.

 

[White Stripe]

I think almost everyone is approaching this issue incorrectly. First upgrade the booster and make sure the lspv is new. Several booster paths are available. There are vacuum boosters that apply more pressure available. Something around 30% or so. Then you have the hydroboost route which increases the pressure the most. Hydroboost is for when you want to quit messing around and get serious. It leaves vacuum boosters in the dust. My brakes are epic with hydroboost. And I have stock calipers and pads. That said, if all your brake components are original 30 year old components that have never been replaced, you can't expect any sort of adequate brake quality.

 

[JDUBinCO]

I second the Powerstop recommendation. They will lock the tires up and their rotors last forever. I'm past 120K miles on my Powerstop slotted rotors. Maybe 2nd set of pads in that time. I tow and drive in the mountains a lot - I've literally smoked the pads and they were fine after cooling. Follow their bedding process carefully for the best braking (should be smoking when you're done bedding in the brakes).
I've gone Powerstop on all my vehicles as I do brake jobs and I'm VERY happy with them.