- Thread starter
- #41
I thought he did but I'll have to check. I know the 80 I just bought does.
Hydro Assist Threads
- Thread starter mr jits
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I thought he did but I'll have to check. I know the 80 I just bought does.
Really, I didn't realize anyone was running those.
landtank said:
I didn't either. Only one other Canadian rig running front and rear that I indirectly am aware of.
Y'all both failed us by not reporting the viability. Bahahaha.
LT said:
The mount you keep harkening back to may work.
(Edited: went to get pic and the lightbulb illuminated. Now I get what you're saying.
If you'd learn to speak Denglish, wouldn't be a problem. :flippff2: )
If the ram attachment could butt up to the inner radius arm mount, think it'll clear.
Before I look stupider.
I've heard Christo's statements regarding "double shear" regarding hi steer.
I know what double shear means, but regarding the drag link and tie rod, I'm assuming the terminology refers to the drag link up front, tie rid in back.
Right?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #44
- Thread starter
- #45
The tie rod is behind the axle, the relay rod is in front. The relay rod relays the steering input from the arm to the tires. The tie rod ties the two tires together (that's how I remember it).
Double sheer only refers to using heims in the steering. When you replace tirod ends with heims and a single bolt it is putting the bolt into "single sheer" where it only has one piece of metal (the arm) holding the bolt. To create a double sheer you would need to add a second arm and create a horizontal "Y" that the heim goes in between and the bolt passes through both arms and the heim. Not sure how clear that is but what you are trying to do is put the bolt so that the sheer forces are on the top and bottom of the bolt and not just in one place, also egging out the single hole.
Delancy said:
They move the tierod in front of the axles to run link suspensions. I did this with my last 80 axle. I had the very last OTT high steer setup. They had very nice arms but it required you to send your knuckles to them to be machined. Slees setup is not as "clean" but great execution and likely stronger.
scottryana said:
Clear as mud, but does confirm that I was interpreting other input on incorrectly, so it helps.
( I get it, just not visually ).
It seems advantageous to put the axle in between the relay and tie rod, and misinterpreted Christo's comments on.
When LT first suggested hydro, invested time in discussions regarding the hydraulic system and ramifications of, but didn't spend enough time considering the mechanical aspects before opting out.
Now that I've seen the close confines, perplexed at how to go about implementing.
High steer won't work with the tie rod behind the axle, on mine. To raise above the previously depicted arm runs directly into the side of the DC joint.
Unsure if moving the tie rod up front with relay is worthy of a street driven pig, coupled with precarious real estate it'd be mounted in.
I do not believe that Heim's that I've seen in the kits are best utilized in steering applications, at least not for on a rig that's expected to be quite, see highway speeds. (Could be sold on a UCAish 1-1 1/4" uniball, housed like I have on FJC, but do not wish to reinvent the wheel, because I ain't smart enough ), and have to maintain some OEish form, since I've shot my mouth off about.
Sorry I am on my phone but tried to find a couple pics to show single and double sheer.
One shows a bolt through a single arm and you can see the force will have it enlarging the hole and eventually breaking the bolt, while the other picture shows the bolt between two arms.
One shows a bolt through a single arm and you can see the force will have it enlarging the hole and eventually breaking the bolt, while the other picture shows the bolt between two arms.
Heim joints are no bueno on the road, therefore tie rod ends are your only options which means staying in single shear. Fortunately Toyota made some pretty stout tie rod ends for the 80 series so you don't have to worry about breaking them much. However, it is a good idea to keep a spare set on hand just in case one decides to shear off.
It is the best way and certainly the easiest and most cost effective. With your current radius arms you might have packaging difficulties that others might not for a hydraulic assist, but I am sure it isn't something that a competent shop couldn't look at and let you know what could be done. With your wheeling style having the ram behind the axle would probably be the best course of action. 
scottryana said:
They're are none, locally, and why I cut my teeth on the FJC. As we can see, my fab skills suck and welding, well, shouldn't be called welding.
In discussions with a buddy and his long time fabricator in Houston who hung out their own shingle a few months back. May try to coordinate a mid March transport, since will he headed there anyway, but still in the very early stages of consideration. Very capable, too much so for my to do list.
This may make it worthwhile.
scottryana said:With your wheeling style having the ram behind the axle would probably be the best course of action.
I, all but, take offense to that statement. Bahahaha.
- Thread starter
- #56
So a quick update: I have the 8" ram I'm going to mount behind the axle.
There'll be some creativity necessary to keep the geometry as optimal as possible, but there's no reason the ram can't be mounted behind the axle.
There'll be some creativity necessary to keep the geometry as optimal as possible, but there's no reason the ram can't be mounted behind the axle.
Even with this hunk of chit surrounding the tie rod?
I don't know the ramifications, but have been pondering welding a mount on the top of the axle to attach the upper arm mount to, doing away with the L shaped bracket.
Would buy an 1" between tie rod and housing.
I don't know the ramifications, but have been pondering welding a mount on the top of the axle to attach the upper arm mount to, doing away with the L shaped bracket.
Would buy an 1" between tie rod and housing.
- Thread starter
- #58
I think you need to buy the ram you intend to use so you have a visual for the fitment. I can't tell from the photo, but I think you could fit the ram in the same location I'm looking at, but you may not be able to upgrade your relay rod at the same time (which I think you should do).
- Thread starter
- #60
Nope, I think you're set.
I really think you should just pick up a ram and start mocking things up. It's definitely a tight fit behind the axle, but I also think that that space is going to provide a lot of protection to the ram.
