How to maximize deep snow capability? (1 Viewer)

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I agree with many of the comments on low tire pressures, but do some research.

For me getting to single digits was much better, but some tire/wheel combinations I’d lose a bead under 8 psi, or sometimes a wheel would spin inside a tire and then tire foot print doesn’t matter anyways.

So, figure out how low your tires will happily run (the hard/fun way). Might want to have a can of ether on hand and a good air compressor, also some ratcheting tie down straps. You’ll figure out why you want to have those on hand when you lose a bead.

Kinetic energy can be your friend and a lot of fun, or it can be a nightmare. In soft fluffy powder sections, it’s worth walking through to make sure there is no boulders or tree stumps. Then send the lightest vehicle in first like a lawn dart to flatten down the trail and get a path started.

Having recovery straps to pull people backwards tends to be so much quicker and easier than winching especially with straps that have good stretch for the weight of vehicles used.

Chains are good!! But not always ideal for low tire pressure in soft snow. Better for steep or side hill terrain and icy stuff. If you are trying to get up icy shelf on river banks they are great, if you have wide large aggressive lug tires and run at low pressures in flat and deep snow they may seem unnecessary.

Lockers are also nice, in snow you can easily lose traction on one wheel. The nice thing about snow is it’s easier on your rig than bouncing in the rocks. Much less body damage too. Bring a good shovel or two, my preference is a D handle spade, it won’t scoop as much soft snow as a big snow shovel, but it will chip away at hard packed when the snow shovel will bend.

Always bring enough warm gear and calories to walk out and spare gear for others. If your feet get wet an extra set of boots is a big deal.

Up this way the days are short and nights are cold, if you get stuck there are some real risks, communicating your trip and having backup plans is definitely no less important than any other trip.
 
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My tires were warm enough to melt the snow under them and turned it to ice. When I went to pull away, I was sitting in four tire shaped divots and couldn't move forward or back, regardless of what I did.
Didn't consider that happening but you're right I've had this happen before and now it makes sense. Drive on highway, pull off into the snow, go again and spin then it grabs and gets out from that parked spot.
Also, if you were in 24"+ deep snow, you start to pack it underneath and start to ride up. Unless you can push it out if the way with a bumper, you will eventually high center, which is where I think you ended up.
This is pretty much what I saw when I got out. All (4) wheels front and back had little "ramps" of packed snow..dug those out then realized my control arms and pumpkin was also sitting right on the wet pack.
 
I agree with many of the comments on low tire pressures, but do some research.

For me getting to single digits was much better, but some tire/wheel combinations I’d lose a bead under 8 psi, or sometimes a wheel would spin inside a tire and then tire foot print doesn’t matter anyways.

So, figure out how low your tires will happily run (the hard/fun way). Might want to have a can of ether on hand and a good air compressor, also some ratcheting tie down straps. You’ll figure out why you want to have those on hand when you lose a bead.

Kinetic energy can be your friend and a lot of fun, or it can be a nightmare. In soft fluffy powder sections, it’s worth walking through to make sure there is no boulders or tree stumps. Then send the lightest vehicle in first like a lawn dart to flatten down the trail and get a path started.

Having recovery straps to pull people backwards tends to be so much quicker and easier than winching especially with straps that have good stretch for the weight of vehicles used.

Chains are good!! But not always ideal for low tire pressure in soft snow. Better for steep or side hill terrain and icy stuff. If you are trying to get up icy shelf on river banks they are great, if you have wide large aggressive lug tires and run at low pressures in flat and deep snow they may seem unnecessary.

Lockers are also nice, in snow you can easily lose traction on one wheel. The nice thing about snow is it’s easier on your rig than bouncing in the rocks. Much less body damage too. Bring a good shovel or two, my preference is a D handle spade, it won’t scoop as much soft snow as a big snow shovel, but it will chip away at hard packed when the snow shovel will bend.

Always bring enough warm gear and calories to walk out and spare gear for others. If your feet get wet an extra set of boots is a big deal.

Up this way the days are short and nights are cold, if you get stuck there are some real risks, communicating your trip and having backup plans is definitely no less important than any other trip.
Def need a good shovel, my packable "avalanche" shovel is good for a backpack and recovering a person but not so much for a vehicle..

I'll also add those recovery boards into the mix of my recovery gear, the winch is great but slow and limited with having a good anchor point.

I like how chains have worked for me in the past, just don't have any for the 80 yet.

I just ordered 4.88 and a rear locker along with diff armor, excited for how it's gonna shift with the taller gear although nervous about my highway speed cruising RPM.. I also think the rear locker will help too. Might add a front down the line if I find that the rear and center is still having it's limits. On my old truck I rarely used the front locker.

Thank you!
 
Do yourselves a favour and watch your transmission temps. Luckily I have a gauge and pushing deep snow will heat the transmission pretty quickly.
Key here is to drop a gear do not stay in drive as your tranny will be hunting for gears and generating heat. Many times I will shift the T/C into low. If your tranny heats up your engine is also heating up, and what looks like normal on your temp gauge is really 230 degrees. Get a real gauge or OBII reader.
Experiment with driving styles as snow changes day especially with temperature.
Sometimes you just need to idle through letting your tires do their job, and other times momentum is your friend. Momentum is not speed....speed often leads to a screw up!
Try not to spin your tires, if you spin, you dig and risk lying on the frame with your tires uselessly spinning in the air.
On tough sections I will gently move forward and back to pack the snow keeping the rears on packed snow in case I have to back out.
Get a long handled shovel, a shovel that can reach every part of a stuck vehicle.
Buy good chains because when you have one chance you want them to work.
Don't forget a chainsaw! A chainsaw is a must have item.
Maybe the kit below!
1612271798269.png
 
Just a note from someone who got stuck in his Discovery many years ago.

Those cool looking shovels with the short handles that stow away taking up very little room are great, until you need to use them!

Get a long handled square spade, no need to get down on your knees to use it and if need be can reach right under the vehicle.

Trust me on this! ;)

Regards

Dave
 
Tall and skinny snow specific tires.

1612275197059.png
 
Just a note from someone who got stuck in his Discovery many years ago.

Those cool looking shovels with the short handles that stow away taking up very little room are great, until you need to use them!

Get a long handled square spade, no need to get down on your knees to use it and if need be can reach right under the vehicle.

Trust me on this! ;)

Regards

Dave
I've had one of these Voile mountain shovels for about 20 years and it works well. It stays in the car and goes on mountain hiking trips etc....its not not as good as a big shovel but its very strong and does move snow well enough to help with extraction.

1612275338672.png
 
I've had one of these Voile mountain shovels for about 20 years and it works well. It stays in the car and goes on mountain hiking trips etc....its not not as good as a big shovel but its very strong and does move snow well enough to help with extraction.

View attachment 2573000
Same. They work well.
 
I have hit drifts in my old pickup that were 8 ft high and 30 ft long. You back up and hit them at 70 MPH, and steer toward the deep part as you go because it will push you to the light side and off the edge of the road. Yes, we got stuck a lot too.

OK, this sounds seriously fun.
 
OK, this sounds seriously fun.
Yes, it was.

Can't see where you're going, nothing but WOT in 3rd gear, listening to the 4V carb howling and the exhaust pounding!
 
Do yourselves a favour and watch your transmission temps. Luckily I have a gauge and pushing deep snow will heat the transmission pretty quickly.
I have an ultragauge, haven't looked but is there a factory trans sending unit where I can just change one of the readouts to trans temp?
 
Same. They work well.
I third this. I've been using a $20 aluminum snow shovel at the beach for 5+ years. It's been great and while the edge is really starting to wear down, it has taken all the abuse like a champ. I would not hesitate to get another one for tossing in the Cruiser for snow.
 
bigger tires aired down much more
 
bigger tires aired down much more
ughhh i just got these!! might need to lift higher to go 37's im on OME heavies 3.5 front and 2.5 rear
There is not, you have to hard install a sensor somewhere if you want to see trans temperature.
ahhh ok. would probably be a good idea...i swear ive smelt trans fluid burning before.... =O
 
I have an ultragauge, haven't looked but is there a factory trans sending unit where I can just change one of the readouts to trans temp?
Many miles of fording through snow 12” plus deep and always impressed with how cool the A442f stays according to the auto meter gauge I plugged into the trans oil pan. In fact, whether goofing around in snow above the rocker panels or crawling rocks in 90 degrees or scooting down the highway over mountain passes, my 1993 trans temps very rarely get up to 170 and 140-160 is the normal when working. These transmissions run cool.

Low range is your transmissions friend.
 
lot's of posts regarding proper shovels. I would like to second this comment., especially if your stuck in old hard pack that is frozen solid. In these situations you almost have to use a steel spade shovel to make any progress in the snow.
 
I run 8 psi in my 35" mt's. Unless you are pushing dry champagne powder your goal is to stay on top of the snow. So wheel spin is usually a no-no, spinning wheels will dig you down. You want to creep on top of the snow your tires are packing. if you are stopping on a hill stop in your tracks and roll back in your same tracks about a foot or so, that way you have a packed track to start in.

Sometimes you will need to "bank bust" your way through certain spots, get your speed up hit the bank and let off the gas, you don't want to dig down with spinning tires so let the rig stop back up and do it again.

All in all our rigs are heavy lumps of iron with a big solid front axle that is basically a land anchor in snow, we aren't really equipped to do snow well. A 1st gen 4 runner with nothing in it on 40's locked up weighing 4,000 lbs will dance on top of the snow all day long..
 
Many miles of fording through snow 12” plus deep and always impressed with how cool the A442f stays according to the auto meter gauge I plugged into the trans oil pan. In fact, whether goofing around in snow above the rocker panels or crawling rocks in 90 degrees or scooting down the highway over mountain passes, my 1993 trans temps very rarely get up to 170 and 140-160 is the normal when working. These transmissions run cool.

Low range is your transmissions friend.

Exact numbers on my A343F. My trans gauge turned out to be a pretty 'boring' system to monitor, but that's a good thing I suppose.

Welded a bung onto my trans pan and installed the sensor there.

TransPan6.jpg

TransPan9.jpg

TransPan10.jpg

Cool Trans.jpg
 
Exact numbers on my A343F. My trans gauge turned out to be a pretty 'boring' system to monitor, but that's a good thing I suppose.

Welded a bung onto my trans pan and installed the sensor there.

View attachment 2573436
View attachment 2573438
View attachment 2573439
View attachment 2573441
Yes boring but better safe than sorry. The pan temp gives us a good look at average core temps once the gears have been lubed. The fluid can be much hotter right out of the converter as it’s routed toward the cooling system but that would be reflected in a pan monitored system and not as much of a concern as the constant core temp. I once pushed my gauge up to 180 but it took Rubicon crawling with A/C on in 90 plus degree summer heat. I’m very happy with the fact that this is just one more thing I don’t need to worry about while enjoying the Landcruiser.
 
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