How to maximize deep snow capability? (1 Viewer)

[enox]

Hi Fellows!

Went out this last weekend driving in the snow, unplowed in CA..found a trail that had about 2' on the trail... I promptly got stuck when trying to turn up a section which was slightly uphill...

Tried to reverse, couldn't move.
Tried to go forward couldn't move.

The tires were just spinning as maybe the ground was frozen underneath..

Diffs and control arms were sitting on the snow, dug it out and still was just spinning..

Specs:
Lifted on brand new 35" falken Wildpeak AT3w's

Center diff lock was engaged
T-Case was in low
Aired down to 20psi

Would (4) chains be the move for off trail deep snow?

Is this a situation where those recovery boards come in handy?

Do I just need to get a @NLXTACY turbo?

I used the winch to get out, mind you I've used it for other vehicles although my 80 hasn't been stuck so that was fun to use it for myself..

I had the girl drive while I winched maybe I should have let her drive the trail instead...

 

[Heckraiser]

A lot of guys air down into the single digits for snow runs. 20psi is high even for just general off-roading (not in the snow). MT's also sometimes perform better than ATs in deep snow (AT's are way better in packed or on the road).

 

[YMT]

In the deep CA snow, chains are your best bet, TBH.

When going over factory tire size, wider tires float, while narrow ones cut into the snow. Looks like your tires are plenty wide and should float, which is nice in fluffy snow, but, depending on driver skill and conditions, can be detrimental too.

Agreed with above: airing down lower, or adding chains would help.

 

[GeoEng]

Chain up all 4 (Truckee Native Trick).

 

[Grandlooser]

I'd be siding with the turbo option myself.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

It depends on the snow. If it is anything other than fresh powder you will pretty much always get stuck once your diffs and radius arms hit the snow.

Chains will get you more traction and keep you from getting stuck until the axle housing's hit the snow vs the bottom of the pumpkin.

Chains are a catch 22 in the snow. They definitely give you more traction and allow you to handle a couple extra inches of snow. But once your stuck with chains on, getting unstuck is usually much more work than getting unstuck from a no chain situation.

Chains are also a pain to find for bigger tires, a giant pain to put on, and they have a high potential for damaging your rig if they come off when spinning your wheels.

The biggest key to snow wheeling is trying to float and stay on top. Like mentioned above, PSI in the single digits with beadlocks is the best. Plus you can inflate the tires when your stuck to lift the axles out of the snow and make winching or yanking easier.

Snow is kind of like sand, you want HP, flotation, wheel speed, and mud tires suck.

 

[studawg]

Diffs and control arms were sitting on the snow, dug it out and still was just spinning..

Specs:
Lifted on brand new 35" falken Wildpeak AT3w's

Center diff lock was engaged
T-Case was in low
Aired down to 20psi

View attachment 2571968View attachment 2571970

I don't have a lot of experience in deep snow, but my first thought would be that maybe your T-case should be in High, not Low. I would think you need wheels spinning so the tread can "self-clean" and grab more snow. Just a thought. Momentum and spinning tires.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

I don't have a lot of experience in deep snow, but my first thought would be that maybe your T-case should be in High, not Low. If its anything like deep mud, you need wheels spinning so the tread can "self-clean" and grab more snow/mud. Just a thought. Momentum and spinning tires?

Snow is different than mud. It is harder to push through once you bottom out especially old snow. You do not want to dig in deep snow. Shallow snow that can't touch your axles is a different story where you do want to dig down to traction underneath. But generally you want to float and stay on top. Mud tires suck in snow for this reason and because of the harder compounds they just spin on the snow/ice.

It really depends on the snow, fresh vs old, deep enough to bottom out or not, and powder vs wet pack. All these things make a difference, even the time of day will make a difference. I got stuck around 8AM going ice fishing one year. We hiked the last .5 mile in and fished all day, got back around 2PM and I was able to back right up because the snow had warmed up and got soft.

 

[Douglas S]

I've found I can push a lot of snow with mud tires in low range with f/r axles both locked up. But as mentioned above snow varies a lot.

 

[enox]

A lot of guys air down into the single digits for snow runs. 20psi is high even for just general off-roading (not in the snow).

yeah last weekend when i went out i was at 15 and never had an issue. Figured id try 20 this time from a different persons recommendation

Agreed with above: airing down lower, or adding chains would help.

ok cool

I'd be siding with the turbo option myself.

THANK YOU - i needed someone else to side with me on that one..lol

The biggest key to snow wheeling is trying to float and stay on top. Like mentioned above, PSI in the single digits with beadlocks is the best. Plus you can inflate the tires when your stuck to lift the axles out of the snow and make winching or yanking easier.

this is a good tip - air up to get clearance

It really depends on the snow, fresh vs old, deep enough to bottom out or not, and powder vs wet pack. All these things make a difference, even the time of day will make a difference.

it was old snow, like a week old, wet pack since it was crusty on top and i was out there early morning...

 

[Grandlooser]

Low pressure, chains, turbo = what snow?

 

[lasoundguy]

I was out in Big Bear this weekend in my Tacoma and had a similarly tough go of it, I could do the trails but everytime I pulled off for another rig to squeeze by it was a total pain (winch, strap, shovel, etc) to get going again. My Taco doesn't have a front locker but the rear didn't help that much as I just had all the wheels spinning. Eager to get out in the 80 (on pretty fresh 35" AT3Ws like you have @enox ) to see if we fare any better. I have chains for the Tacoma (only on 32s) but not the LX. Been eyeing these but am not sure about clearance for the fronts (have a 1" body lift though so maybe?)

 

[flintknapper]

Snow is different than mud. It is harder to push through once you bottom out especially old snow. You do not want to dig in deep snow. Shallow snow that can't touch your axles is a different story where you do want to dig down to traction underneath. But generally you want to float and stay on top. Mud tires suck in snow for this reason and because of the harder compounds they just spin on the snow/ice.

It really depends on the snow, fresh vs old, deep enough to bottom out or not, and powder vs wet pack. All these things make a difference, even the time of day will make a difference. I got stuck around 8AM going ice fishing one year. We hiked the last .5 mile in and fished all day, got back around 2PM and I was able to back right up because the snow had warmed up and got soft.

Exactly right. Chains make a huge difference BUT once you are high centered on snow or have run up on it such that you've 'packed it' under the suspension....then you're faced with digging or winching out.

We don't have that problem here (Deep East Texas) but I have plenty of experience in Kansas and Colorado with snow conditions.

As alluded to above it varies widely (conditions) as to the best way to address it.

 

[OGBeno]

Invest in winter treads, yo.

 

[enox]

Low pressure, chains, turbo = what snow?

hahahahaha yes this is what im going for =]

My Taco doesn't have a front locker but the rear didn't help that much as I just had all the wheels spinning. Eager to get out in the 80 (on pretty fresh 35" AT3Ws like you have @enox ) to see if we fare any better

these tires did great last weekend in big bear...I was making fresh tracks in about a foot of fresh powder, but this weekend I was on some side trail near Frazier park where I was stuck... they have performed great on ice and have really enjoyed them so far..

BUT once you are high centered on snow or have run up on it such that you've 'packed it' under the suspension....then you're faced with digging or winching out.

that makes sense, I did pack it pretty well going forward/ reverse to try and powahhh out from my spot.. it did not like when i was trying to make a turn!

Invest in winter treads, yo.

YES. THIS. I just called Mattracks to get a price because im curious...standby... Looks like a to install on the side of the road although I could bypass any CHP checkpoint

 

[Dave 2000]

Hi Fellows!

Went out this last weekend driving in the snow, unplowed in CA..found a trail that had about 2' on the trail... I promptly got stuck when trying to turn up a section which was slightly uphill...

Tried to reverse, couldn't move.
Tried to go forward couldn't move.

The answer might have been in the first paragraph ' when trying to turn up a section which was slightly uphill.'

These are the same symptoms as being in a 'cross axle' situation. My stock 80 will do this if I turn into a uphill corner in mud on stock AT's, I am fortunate to have the OE diff locks, typically it will just be the rear that needs to be engaged. Of course you were not expecting to become disabled with such a simple manoeuvre so were caught out.

Regards

Dave

 

[clx16]

I agree with @Onur but maybe just bigger fender flairs would do it http://www.4x4offroads.com/image-files/4x4-snow-and-ice-land-cruiser-80.jpg

 

[enox]

The answer might have been in the first paragraph ' when trying to turn up a section which was slightly uphill.'

These are the same symptoms as being in a 'cross axle' situation. My stock 80 will do this if I turn into a uphill corner in mud on stock AT's, I am fortunate to have the OE diff locks, typically it will just be the rear that needs to be engaged. Of course you were not expecting to become disabled with such a simple manoeuvre so were caught out.

yeah - i probably should have made a smaller turn, then tried to pack a little, back up, go forward, etc to try and make myself a little packed path..

I agree with @Onur but maybe just bigger fender flairs would do it

...I mean flair = flare so yes. I'm sure @Onur has a part # somewhere for those tracks.

 

[clx16]

NO... we need to talk about your flair

 

[enox]

NO... we need to talk about your flair

I thoroughly enjoyed this reminder