How to maximize deep snow capability? (1 Viewer)

[Rusty Marlin]

Growing up in the NE where snow is deep and heavy, you learn to stay out of the deep stuff.
Chains, and skinny tires will get you anywhere the snow is less than your frame rail deep.
But once you're burried to the frame rails in heavy snow, you're F'd. Get the shovels out to lower the rig back down to traction and back out.

 

[aktundra]

If you watch the videos from Iceland, you will notice several differences from the builds generally in the US.

-flotation is critical therefor light weight. You will never see an ARB bumper, or body armor. Have you added a winch with steel cable ?

-for floatation they generally use something closer to an AT tread, rather than an MT that will auger down

-they generally run on fairly flat terrain, and extremely low tire pressure

 

[lumbee1]

If you watch the videos from Iceland, you will notice several differences from the builds generally in the US.

-flotation is critical therefor light weight. You will never see an ARB bumper, or body armor. Have you added a winch with steel cable ?

-for floatation they generally use something closer to an AT tread, rather than an MT that will auger down

-they generally run on fairly flat terrain, and extremely low tire pressure

There's just one other tiny item that the Iceland trucks have that the OP doesn't.

 

[enox]

flotation is critical therefor light weight. You will never see an ARB bumper, or body armor. Have you added a winch with steel cable ?

Steel cable - would switching to synthetic really cut down enough to make a difference?

for floatation they generally use something closer to an AT tread, rather than an MT that will auger down

I'm on AT as well.

just one other tiny item that the Iceland trucks have that the OP doesn't.

Common theme here, need bigger flares!

 

[leonard_nemoy]

There's just one other tiny item that the Iceland trucks have that the OP doesn't.

Let me guess....that thing on the roof.

I name this here Landcruiser Iceland Nellie. A welshe whore who could do things with her one good tire that would make you forget about that thing on her roof!

 

[BILT4ME]

Get the Wits End turbo and stand on the throttle on the way in.

This is the only way.

 

[SNLC]

I have gone as low as 3psi on stock wheels for snow. You will still get stuck if it isn’t powder. In fact to me, snow wheeling kind of sucks if it isn’t powder. 3ft though of Rocky Mountain fluff is really fun and you don’t get stuck much if you drive it right.

Cheers

 

[Dirt Ferguson]

Iceland crew does not fart around when it comes to snow driving. This is from my trip there in 2017. Not a Cruiser but straight BALLER SNOW DRIVING FINAL BOSS.

#vanlife

 

[woodsman 44]

20 psi IS Way to high for deep snow, it will do nothing ...I start at 8 psi (33's) then go down from there depending on snow conditions...U need low pressure to "float on top" so u dont high center/hang up...low air will pack the snow so u dont dig down to dirt.

Carry an air compressor to air up for the drive home

 

[maxamillion2345]

I mean if you are trying to maximize your capability then ideally youd get beadlocks and air down to 4 or so psi.

If the snow isnt so deep that you can claw to earth with chains and still push through it, then chains are an okay way to go but better off airing down.

 

[enox]

Let me guess....that thing on the roof.

What is that!?

Get the Wits End turbo and stand on the throttle on the way in.

This is the only way.

I want. Joey made me laugh when he mentioned he can do 85 up the grapevine (it's a steep pass out here in California)

I have gone as low as 3psi on stock wheels for snow. You will still get stuck if it isn’t powder

I didn't know you could get that lo w/out bead locks. Lowest I've gone is 15

U need low pressure to "float on top" so u dont high center/hang up...low air will pack the snow so u dont dig down to dirt.

Carry an air compressor to air up for the drive home

Air compressor albeit I gotta add a tank so I can pre-charge, it takes me about 8 min a tire going up from 15psi to 36psi...also my compressor gets hot, I don't know if that affects the reading when filling up..

 

[enox]

I mean if you are trying to maximize your capability then ideally youd get beadlocks and air down to 4 or so psi.

If the snow isnt so deep that you can claw to earth with chains and still push through it, then chains are an okay way to go but better off airing down.
View attachment 2572762View attachment 2572764

That's rad, it looks like it's deep in the first picture

 

[maxamillion2345]

That's rad, it looks like it's deep in the first picture

It was reasonably deep for 40s. Deep snow is all about flotation - thats why tracks work well, way more surface area. So if you don’t want to go to a bigger tire then airing down lower is your only other option and beadlocks help with that. And of course max trax etc help consideray to get unstuck. Check out the Kelowna Snow Wheelers for some wild snow wheeling.
Also here are some unsolicited stuck pictures on dedicated snow toys, getting stuck is part of deep snow - therefore tools to get you unstuck are probably just as important or more so.

 

[Pascoscout]

Let me guess....that thing on the roof.

View attachment 2572614


I name this here Landcruiser Iceland Nellie. A welshe whore who could do things with her one good tire that would make you forget about that thing on her roof!


View attachment 2572615

Love it! Never see Almost Heroes References.

 

[Pascoscout]

I've run my 33's with the valve cores out in deep snow. Did surprisingly well and never lost a bead on stock wheels.

 

[baldilocks]

Lockers, ground clearance, taller tires but not necessarily wider, and very low psi. I’m talking 4 to 6 psi. I run super swamper trXus 37x12.5 on the stock 16 wheels. This combo allows for a lot of side wall flex and tire foot print expansion when aired down without the tire being “wide” at the level of the axle tube so you aren’t trying to push snow unnecessarily. Tread pattern and a softer rubber compound matter as well. Most people are not willing to run a tire all the time that will do well in deep snow.

Your rig would impress you by doing nothing more than airing down to 5 psi. Maybe that’s slightly low for a 35 as the volume of air in the tire is less than a 37 but you can experiment by dropping a little at a time.

I’ve been in certain types of snow where dropping from 6 psi to 4psi was a night and day difference.

 

[Squeegee]

I live in Montana and I’ve had a lot of luck with 12 psi and being super easy on the throttle. But depending on the snow conditions single digits will be your bread and butter

 

[enox]

I've run my 33's with the valve cores out in deep snow. Did surprisingly well and never lost a bead on stock wheels.

Wow awesome, I'm not sure the stock width but my wheels are 16x8" and I'm on 315/75 they're load range E so I know the sidewall is thiccc.. I'd hate to pop a bead tho...

Your rig would impress you by doing nothing more than airing down to 5 psi. Maybe that’s slightly low for a 35 as the volume of air in the tire is less than a 37 but you can experiment by dropping a little at a time.

I’ve been in certain types of snow where dropping from 6 psi to 4psi was a night and day difference.

I'll give this a try

single digits will be your bread and butter

Thank you, seems the common theme is to have lower psi for that float..

 

[baldilocks]

The trXus I run have a thick load range E sidewall as well. The narrower wheel is key. The stock wheels are very good wheels and incorporate a ridge cast in to help retain the bead on its inside edge.

 

[BILT4ME]

Also keep your tires cool.

I have driven 25 miles on pavement, turned onto a 100% snow covered road that was only 3" deep, drove in about a half mile and stopped for 15 minutes.

My tires were warm enough to melt the snow under them and turned it to ice. When I went to pull away, I was sitting in four tire shaped divots and couldn't move forward or back, regardless of what I did.

We had to sit in place for another 30+ minutes and the tires cooled down to where we drove right out.

Also, if you were in 24"+ deep snow, you start to pack it underneath and start to ride up. Unless you can push it out if the way with a bumper, you will eventually high center, which is where I think you ended up.

The farm I grew up on was in an area that we were the last in the county to get the roads plowed, so we either plowed ourselves or we drove out through it.

I have hit drifts in my old pickup that were 8 ft high and 30 ft long. You back up and hit them at 70 MPH, and steer toward the deep part as you go because it will push you to the light side and off the edge of the road. Yes, we got stuck a lot too.